Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

[scurvyfreedman]



can one still find their handgrade shoes anywhere? or is their "exclusive" their new designation for the handgrade line

Since the reboot, the Exclusive line has always been their standard RTW styles. They have a lower line that they make under private labels without the Exclusive sole, and perhaps other internal quality reductions.

I haven't seen the hand grades as RTW styles anywhere since Leffot stopped stocking them. I believe they are now just MTO. I imagine you can order them through any AS retailer, but I don't' know.

 

[Northampton21]

Finally got around to polishing these beauties. The new Radwells in dark oak/espresso. Love the way the leather has taken to the sharpness of this last...

 

[patliean1]

Anyone know why AS stopped their handgrade line?

 

[SuitedDx]



Anyone know why AS stopped their handgrade line?

Personally I'm not sure. AS seems to have shifted their model to being re-branded instead of selling independently. They make shoes now for J. Crew, Paul Stuart, Wildsmith, Bowen, and I think they even have started to make Brooks Brothers again (although I'm not certain about the last one). They started a big push with their Exclusive and HG when Chay was with them but I noticed a sharp drop in that approach after he went off to Wildsmith (and now I think he's at C&J). My guess is he was an integral part of that approach and without him, AS might be satisfied with making sure for 3rd parties. Just my thought and opinion though and others will likely have more valid information. I decided to get back to AS for a couple of shoes thanks to @Afinepairofshoes

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

 

[scurvyfreedman]



I decided to get back to AS for a couple of shoes thanks to @Afinepairofshoes

I always love the look of whole cuts before they crease. So clean. Yours look great.

 

[Dembowski]

Thank you pictures.

I have real dilemma what to buy:

Holmes II or Radwell - both in Oak

 

[Northampton21]



Thank you pictures.

Both great boots Dembowski. I've noticed that the oak leather on the new Radwells make it a completely different boot in terms of look and feel in comparison to the former hatch grain version.

The Holmes II on the other hand is totally unique. Maybe it depends what you will wear more? I find the 109 last is brilliant.

I have  real dilemma what to buy:

Holmes II or Radwell - both in Oak

 

[Dembowski]

Thank you Northampton 21 - thank you for your replay. I have noticed on pictures you have posted, that Radwell in Oak looks sharper !!!

Is it correct that Oak color in case of Holmes II and Radwell is slightly different?

P.S. You have great collections of AS. I love this shoe maker. Are you abel to compare to C&J? Any opinions?

 

[Northampton21]



Thank you Northampton 21 - thank you for your replay. I have noticed on pictures you have posted, that Radwell in Oak looks sharper !!!

Is it correct that Oak color in case of Holmes II and Radwell is slightly different?

P.S. You have great collections of AS. I love this shoe maker. Are you abel to compare to C&J? Any opinions?

You're welcome Dembowski. I'm quite sure that the type of oak leather used in the Holmes II and Radwell are actually the same however leather can differ from batch to batch even if from the same tannery. I have used a combination of different polishes though on both shoes this could also matter. Generally the Radwells would be a bit darker.

Thanks yes I must admit I love Alfred Sargent so every time there is an opportunity I'll choose AS. From speaking to people who have knowledge of the shoe industry we believe AS and C&J are pretty much in the same league. Personally I think AS lasts are great hence no urge to try C&J. People on styleforum compare AS exclusive to C&Js handgrade. When AS we're making their handgrade... They really were special.
It comes down to personal preference in the end.

If I had to try another brand it would be Gaziano and Girling or St Crispin. ..but they're about double the price compared to AS exclusive. ..

 

[Dembowski]

I like AS too. Currently I own quite many styles from AS in my collection, but always interested in something new. G&G, ST Cr or even EG are a little bit too expensive, so I am not planing to buy - maybe if I am lucky and get special deal - 50 - 75% from RRP.

Regarding AS and 109 last, I like it too ( currently I have Charles II and Morriarty) and this is one of the reasons why I am considering Holmes II.

Propably I will go for Holmes II and Yanko balmorals in navy (just leather or leather + suede), especially that I can get them for less then 50% of AS RRP. Quality wise - very good shoes.









EDIT: It is funny - every day different decision. Now I am more convinced to buy Radwell and Holmes II. I fully agree that Radwell in Oak looks amazing!

 

[Dembowski]

Finally decide to go for Radwell in Oak - this color is amazing and Radwell fits me well. And second pair is in Chestnut - I do not have any shoes in this color, so it has to be the first one.
Of course both pairs bought as a seconds

 

[Northampton21]

Great choice Dembowski. You will certainly enjoy wearing them and leather on Radwells are amazing.

Moore in chestnut looking excellent!

 

[Dembowski]

Thank you NH21.

 

[Afinepairofshoes]

Here is the new Cambridge in Mahogany Country Grain, lovely Autumn afternoon in Leamington Spa

 

[TtownMD]

Just wow those are lovely