ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,723
    Likes Received:
    2,328
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    Thoughts on the Charlton? The dainite sole version from A Fine Pair looks blobbier than the leather sole version from Bodileys

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. Crat

    Crat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,880
    Likes Received:
    3,682
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2011
    Fiddleback Commando... now that would have been cool : )

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  3. Crat

    Crat Senior member

    Messages:
    1,880
    Likes Received:
    3,682
    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2011
    
    Probably due to camera angle and the grain. Or are they on different lasts? Pictures can be deceiving. The dainite/grain is much more a 'country' shoe. On these pictures I prefer the dark brown.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  4. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,411
    Likes Received:
    818
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
    

    Moore is Antique and Wilson is Vintage, very similar.
     


  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,723
    Likes Received:
    2,328
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    Probably right about the angle. They're both 99 last.

    How's the forefoot room and instep height on this last? It only goes up to an F, but I usually wear a G. I need a bunch of room.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  6. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

    Messages:
    4,654
    Likes Received:
    765
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2010
    Location:
    The Forum
    My experience with the 99 is to be on the "fitted" end if the spectrum. I size down only .5 on the 99 (compared to a full size on other AS lasts).
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

    Messages:
    14,723
    Likes Received:
    2,328
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    

    What would that match up with if I'm a 9G in Crockett and Jones?
     


  8. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

    Messages:
    4,654
    Likes Received:
    765
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2010
    Location:
    The Forum
    Maybe 9.5F on the 99? Note though that my fit may greatly differ from yours. I wear 6E in C&J and 6.5F on AS 99. I do have experience with AS' 724 and I would say it is one of their wider last in the ball area (compared to the 99). Maybe check out shoes on the 724 (e.g., Moore) if you want a safer fit?
     


  9. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

    Messages:
    1,295
    Likes Received:
    235
    Joined:
    May 5, 2010
    Location:
    Rockville, MD
    

    I have the Pinner suede/dainite from AFPOS (the actual shoes pictured on their site are mine). The waist is actually pretty tapered for dainite. I was surprised how much shape there is to the shoe on that sole.

    I wear a 8UK on the 99 last, a 7.5UK on the 87 last. I ordered a 7.5UK on the AS 48 last, but haven't actually worn them yet b/c they're in process. I wear a 7.5 on the C&J 348 and from Barney's I wear a 9US on the 363. If ti's at all relevant I also wear a 8.5US on Alden's Hampton last.
     


  10. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

    Messages:
    5,411
    Likes Received:
    818
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2010
    I wear same size in AS 724 and C&J 348, UK9.5 (US10.5), although I am more of a small US11.
     


  11. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Likes Received:
    166
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    
    I think the Exclusives make-up on leather soles are stunning. Just got the confirmation from Bodiley's that the shoes were shipped. So, a couple of dags from now I can give a real life verdict.
     


  12. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

    Messages:
    1,174
    Likes Received:
    110
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2013
    Just got my Moores in. Gorgeous shoes. Can't wait to wear them next week.
     


  13. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Likes Received:
    166
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    [​IMG]

    Charlton delivered. A great looking shoe IMO!. Unfortunately too narrow. I have two pairs of more country style shoes on the 87-last since before, which clearly are quite a bit roomier. I asked Chay Cooper of AS if I were likely to fit in the same size and width between the two lasts, which he confirmed. But no.
    I'll have to return them, which is a pity. Already like them very much...
     


  14. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

    Messages:
    4,654
    Likes Received:
    765
    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2010
    Location:
    The Forum
    

    You got the same size in the 99 as 87?
     


  15. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

    Messages:
    557
    Likes Received:
    166
    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2012
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden
    
    I did. Would need to size up in the 99. Lengthwise it's fine, but it's too narrow.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by