Alexander McQueen Bespoke

[mmkn]

Knew that he apprenticed under Edward Sexton, but didn't realize he did bespoke tailoring once upon a time.

Check out the "British breast welt!"



- M

 

[RSS]

I remember him at Anderson & Sheppard.

 

[Blackhood]

I always thought he was an Art School to Runway kind of story. Though I guess a solid understanding of structure and form is always going to make for a better designer.

 

[Despos]

Saw his exhibit at the Met last year and could clearly see the custom tailoring background in his work. I respect his work.

Think he was the one that would put nasty remarks on notes and leave them in clients pockets. Prince Charles was a recipient.

That breast welt is ugly

 

[mmkn]

^ There are a few designers who clearly have (had) classic tailoring influences in them that make their showings highly structured looking. Other examples beside McQueen include Galliano (hold the tomatoes please) and Saint Laurent.

Tom Ford, although he is enamored with the 70s Nutter-esque look, still doesn't come across as a "structured" designer, probably from the lack of tailoring background. Nevertheless he seems to appreciate it.

Some (many) would say that breast welt is ugly. An alternative interpretation is that it is regal, military, structure, not attention grabbing - true to the British tailoring heritage. The Italian breast welts are, well, just stylish!

- M

 

[Despos]



Some (many) would say that breast welt is ugly. An alternative interpretation is that it is regal, military, structure, not attention grabbing - true to the British tailoring heritage. The Italian breast welts are, well, just stylish!

- M

It is more attention grabbing to me as It is counter to all the lines and shapes of the upper chest, shoulder, lapel, sleeve, collar, etc.. It is rigid line against the subtle shaping of the chest and the graceful contours and shapes of the upper parts of a jacket. If this were the game "what doesn't belong together" I would pick the breast pocket.
If he is wearing A&S, that is far from military styling.

 

[mmkn]

^ I once asked Edward Sexton how he sees cuffs on trousers.

He said something to the effect that the eyes goes from the cuffs on trousers to flaps on the jacket's hip pockets- a continuity of the eyes looking at a suit.

Looking at what Mr. McQueen is wearing, perhaps he interprets that breast welt as a continuation of the elongated rectangle motif up to the chest from below.

The lapels aren't that pretty either; they're "uniformy."

- M

 

[David Reeves]

Maybe its meant to be "ugly". When was the article written? He was certainly worthy of his success. The nicest suit I ever saw in the flesh on anyone was a Mcqueen. It was a black and white birds eye. I have seen a lot of nice suits.

 

[wwh270547237]

Knew that he apprenticed under Edward Sexton, but didn't realize he did bespoke tailoring once upon a time.

Check out the "British breast welt!"



- M

what make you think mcqueen apprenticed under Edward Sexton,i remember he is was apprenticed to johnhitchcock who worked at andersonsheppard