1. Hi. We moved systems, and because it was impossible to achieve feature parity between the systems, we opted to archive the old B&S threads but allow users to read them so that they can put them into our new B&S system.

    There is a support thread if you have any issues.



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Alexander Julian Bespoke/Couture/Private Reserve

Discussion in 'B&S Archive' started by Flaneur, Jul 11, 2005.

  1. Flaneur

    Flaneur Member

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    Oct 11, 2004
    Gentlemen: Good day to you and thank you for taking a few moments from your busy day/evening to read this post. I'm an Alexander Julian archivist and collector from Los Angeles seeking, as always, still more pieces of vintage Alexander Julian apparel and accessory items from the: "Alexander Julian Bespoke"; "Alexander Julian" (aka "Couture" or "Collection"); "Alexander Julian for Pringle"; and "Alexander Julian Private Reserve" collections to add to my Alexander Julian archive. As some of you may already know from my prior postings, both here and at "Ask Andy's", I seem to be in a perennial state of preparation to launching my website and/or publishing my book dedicated to documenting Alex's extraordinary design career. Every time I feel I'm getting close, though, I'll discover a massive gap in my handle on, say, his 1983-1985 intimate collaboration with Zegna's textile mill and tailoring factories on the development of Julian-designed fabrics for his exclusive use within his Couture collection (to wit: have any of you heard of the limited run of Zegna-make suitings he produced in 1983-4, involving jackets tailored from the fabric face and trousers constructed from the reverse (back-side) of the same fabric? This yields a fascinatingly subtle, almost subliminal, deconstruction of the uniformity inherent in this most "uniform" of all male garments, due to the reversal of color in the weave-structure between jacket and pant.) Or, I'll realize that I only have dribs-and-drabs of several seasons' neckwear collections (for example, I've only encountered 2 neckties from Alex's very first few collections, in the 22 years I've been at this, not exactly the optimum starting point for what aspires to be an A-Z tome. ) You get the idea. I've posted a picture of the precise Julian labels of interest to me, along with a brief synopsis detailing my passion for his art, on the internet, at: http://www.ioffer.com/users/flaneur1966 There are a few other Julian labels also of interest that didn't make it into that picture (a fix is in the works). Most important, though, is the tiny label, held on by a single thread, which identifies the square as one of his magnificent, vividly patterned yarn-dyed (and occasionally, space-dyed.) Italian-linen pocket squares. This label reads: "'Alexander Julian" Hand-rolled by the night watchman of Vittorio Solbiati" My "Alexander Julian Reference Books" (15 lbs. each, X 4) contain a short feature on these pocket-squares, along with a tantalizing photo of just a few of the many incredible linens he developed (and continues to develop, as his latest high-end line, "Private Reserve", features stunning linen shirtings made by Solbiati) in collaboration with the Solbiati mills, clipped from GQ, circa Summer 1984. Let me know if you'd like me to send you the exact reference. Thrift/vintage/resale shop junkies: Since I seem to spend most all my available free time to "making the circuit" of Southern California's (ah, how to put a sophisticated-sounding spin on this?) "second-hand" scene, I inevitably am in a position to routinely spot, admire and fondle but, often, in the end, pass on buying the very ("Chester Barrie", "Henry Poole", "Gieves and Hawkes", "Incotex" trouser, etc., ad nauseum) masterpiece(s) you covet. Why not pool our collective second-hand store energies? You've got my "Want List" on the above link: how about sending me yours? My quid for your quo? And vice-versa, naturally... I would greatly appreciate and warmly welcome any assistance from any other quarters, inclusive of gentlemen who have sized up (or down, for that matter) over the years and/or who have "moved on" from Alex's quite particular aesthetic domain of "Jivey Ivy"/"Psychedelic Preppie", and yet who wish that their remaining Julian pieces should find an appreciative home. Apart from those people interested to donating pieces to my "Alexander Julian Archive", I am willing to pay top dollar for the finest pieces in the finest of condition and, for the right pieces, even with considerable damage (stains, moth holes, etc.), I guarantee that my offers will top those of ANY consignment or resale shop in the country. I hope to hear from you in the near future, and, above all else, may the very best of luck be found in the pursuit of your own sartorial passion(s)... Cordially, Eric McMullen Alexander Julian Archivist Los Angeles

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