Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read

[NYCTechNerd]

Barrie and Modified couldnt be more different in terms in nearly every aspect of the last. For me, Barrie is a symmetrical last with a low heel that does not offer any offset. Due to the low heel, my toes splay and by the time the toe box is comfortable, there is tons of excess volume elsewhere in the shoe. On the flip side, if i got down a width, toes are cramped but i get a perfect cone fit. The curvature of Modified offers a much more secure fit around the cone which secures the heel, as well, and leaves volume for the toes. Barrie is intended as a neutral last which is why it fits a broad range of people.

Judging from the facing gaps on the snuff lwb id hazard a guess that you have relatively flat feet. The snap last, based on Hampton has a higher heel and more curvature than barrie. What makes barrie fit you so well is what is causing the gaps on the snap last.

It goes to show how different feet really are... I love hampton and modified because i have a boney ankle/heel with a high arch and wide forefoot and they provide some curvature. I need a last with a higher heel to fill my arch and fit my toes otherwise its like im wear clogs...

After meeting with Ronnie from Moulded he shared that my foot is wide/flared in the forepart, narrow heel, and average arch and instep which is why the Modified would work well for me. I also asked (and he obliged) to try on a few pairs in Barrie and Van. We did not go into details because I was time limited but he said Modified would work best for me, Barrie would be "fine" too, and "maybe" Van for a distant third, Trubalance for boots if there was something I really wanted but we would need to work out sizing first.

So, I really appreciate your Modified to Barrie comparison, any chance you have experience with Van for laced shoes and/or loafers and could compare the fit to Modified?

While not my feet, this picture from the Moulded Shoe website is a good representation of my foot shape.

 

[KPDarb]

After meeting with Ronnie from Moulded he shared that my foot is wide/flared in the forepart, narrow heel, and average arch and instep which is why the Modified would work well for me. I also asked (and he obliged) to try on a few pairs in Barrie and Van. We did not go into details because I was time limited but he said Modified would work best for me, Barrie would be "fine" too, and "maybe" Van for a distant third, Trubalance for boots if there was something I really wanted but we would need to work out sizing first.

So, I really appreciate your Modified to Barrie comparison, any chance you have experience with Van for laced shoes and/or loafers and could compare the fit to Modified?

While not my feet, this picture from the Moulded Shoe website is a good representation of my foot shape.
View attachment 1574030

Trubalance is also a great last especially for boots. Its slightly curved with plenty of toe room and the heel is nice and secure. Judging by how Barrie fits your feet, i think you'd be very happy in a pair of trubalance boots, especially an original indy with the thomas heels.

As for Van, I've only experienced loafers on van but have actually been eyeing a ranger moc. The Van last's origin was a boys orthopedic shoe so it definitely has some decent offset, toe spring, and ample space in the toe box. I would imagine a Van lasted shoe would be very comfortable. Once i find a store to run my ideal make up ill report back

my 2c*

 

[BoydsShoes]

Trubalance is also a great last especially for boots. Its slightly curved with plenty of toe room and the heel is nice and secure. Judging by how Barrie fits your feet, i think you'd be very happy in a pair of trubalance boots, especially an original indy with the thomas heels.

As for Van, I've only experienced loafers on van but have actually been eyeing a ranger moc. The Van last's origin was a boys orthopedic shoe so it definitely has some decent offset, toe spring, and ample space in the toe box. I would imagine a Van lasted shoe would be very comfortable. Once i find a store to run my ideal make up ill report back

my 2c*

Yes, and the Thomas heel is something that I was wondering about on the Indy. I have a Thomas heel on a calfskin Truebalance and the fit around the heel is beautiful, much more snug than my commando Indies (see attached, 5ZP Army Boot from Brogue).

Is this a general feature of how the factory fits the Thomas heel on an Indy, so the classic Indy fits much more snug in the heel than a commando Indy?

 

[KPDarb]

Yes, and the Thomas heel is something that I was wondering about on the Indy. I have a Thomas heel on a calfskin Truebalance and the fit around the heel is beautiful, much more snug than my commando Indies (see attached, 5ZP Army Boot from Brogue).

Is this a general feature of how the factory fits the Thomas heel on an Indy, so the classic Indy fits much more snug in the heel than a commando Indy?


View attachment 1575469

Man those are such great boots! i remember Brogue releasing them and being so please thomas heel was being used on a non-indy style.

I have the same experience with my indy vs my cxl trubalance tanker from BM. I think its just the nature of the thomas heel and its intended effect on your feet. That inside line of the heel will feel much more snug throughout your step.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

Trubalance is also a great last especially for boots. Its slightly curved with plenty of toe room and the heel is nice and secure. Judging by how Barrie fits your feet, i think you'd be very happy in a pair of trubalance boots, especially an original indy with the thomas heels.

As for Van, I've only experienced loafers on van but have actually been eyeing a ranger moc. The Van last's origin was a boys orthopedic shoe so it definitely has some decent offset, toe spring, and ample space in the toe box. I would imagine a Van lasted shoe would be very comfortable. Once i find a store to run my ideal make up ill report back

my 2c*

I have been thinking about these two which are variations on the same theme: ranger mocc on Van last.

Alden x Louie Retail D9619C (left) and Alden x David Wood The Hobart (right) which are essentially the same build even though the color in the pictures appears different. DW version has external eyelets and different laces but both are reverse tobacco chamois, antique edge, and on commando. Not sure which one I like more.

What is your ideal make-up?

 

[KPDarb]

@NYCTechNerd I actually really like that general style and prefer the eyelets on DW. I also love their tan suede Macworth moc and might have to buy it when i visit the store this summer if its still available.

Its such a great style but think it looks best with a doulble waterlock sole and reverse welt. I think brown regina grain with contrast hand stitch, brass eyelets, and double waterlock sole would be great. Kind of the below but brown and brass eyes. Color 8 with bling eyes would also be a good choice.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

@NYCTechNerd I actually really like that general style and prefer the eyelets on DW. I also love their tan suede Macworth moc and might have to buy it when i visit the store this summer if its still available.

Its such a great style but think it looks best with a doulble waterlock sole and reverse welt. I think brown regina grain with contrast hand stitch, brass eyelets, and double waterlock sole would be great. Kind of the below but brown and brass eyes. Color 8 with bling eyes would also be a good choice.

View attachment 1575489

I do like the commando sole on the tobacco reverse chamois versions in my earlier post but agree it does not work for all upper materials. I originally found the Tan/Mackworth at David Wood (left) but it is sold out, except for 8D/8E/11.5D which do not fit me, and they already told me they have no plans to run it again which is a shame. AOM has a Color 8 version (right) also on the commando but I am really not into the shell version.

Another very interesting version is The Ultimate Ranger CXL by Leather Sole.

 

[DrapeauNoir]

After meeting with Ronnie from Moulded he shared that my foot is wide/flared in the forepart, narrow heel, and average arch and instep which is why the Modified would work well for me. I also asked (and he obliged) to try on a few pairs in Barrie and Van. We did not go into details because I was time limited but he said Modified would work best for me, Barrie would be "fine" too, and "maybe" Van for a distant third, Trubalance for boots if there was something I really wanted but we would need to work out sizing first.

So, I really appreciate your Modified to Barrie comparison, any chance you have experience with Van for laced shoes and/or loafers and could compare the fit to Modified?

While not my feet, this picture from the Moulded Shoe website is a good representation of my foot shape.
View attachment 1574030

That picture always gets a chuckle from me — because that's my foot. I sent that photo to Moulded Shoe years ago, when asking them for sizing advice.

 

[savvysartorial]

Dropping by since @NYCTechNerd has mentioned Modified recently in other threads and I have a few pairs... Unlike some of you, Modified isn't a necessity for my foot, but I certainly enjoy the last and the shoes.


Has anyone ever purchased a makeup from Anatomica recently? It would be interesting to get shoes that are not offered here.

I have a few pairs from Moulded and I love them to death.

Thanks.

 

[savvysartorial]

On Feb 21, 2018, Sudonihm tried to get together a MTO with Moulded Shoe on this thread. I think it died out because he couldn't line up enough people. You should certainly talk to Ron or Raphael, its kind of a cult.

I also am a narrow in ML, take a 9.5 B in rubber sole, remove the insert and put in a custom orthotic. By the way, the guy that made the orthotic then trimmed it to fit the Modified Last. It still fits fine in Truebalance and Military Last.

Regarding flat feet and ML, it appears to be a controversial issue, because they make high arched people happy. Obviously if they work for you, its great. For a little discussion of this and views of some podiatrists, see the special feature on Moulded Shoe at:

Step Into Moulded Shoe, Timeless Wonder of the Footwear World - Stitchdown

Moulded Shoe Inc. is barely more than the width of a garage door side to side, but it’s much, much taller than it is wide. Boxes upon boxes of shoes, including Alden's deeply unique Modified last models, climb up to the sky on your left and right—maybe 30, 35 feet high at their apex. A

www.stitchdown.com

Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in... I have flat feet (low to no arch on my right foot and a normal to low arch on my left) and Modified fits like a dream.

It's interesting that they don't seem to bother me at all. The heel hugs like a big grizzly bear, much much better than Barrie which I find to be very blobby and no shape - despite the fact that I have numerous pairs on that last!

 

[NYCTechNerd]

Dropping by since @NYCTechNerd has mentioned Modified recently in other threads and I have a few pairs... Unlike some of you, Modified isn't a necessity for my foot, but I certainly enjoy the last and the shoes.


Has anyone ever purchased a makeup from Anatomica recently? It would be interesting to get shoes that are not offered here.

I have a few pairs from Moulded and I love them to death.

Thanks.

Hey @savvysartorial,

I am not sure many actually follow this thread so I have prompted others in the past by tagging people (@DrapeauNoir @Jason Kadushin @Sudonihm @DuckOB @somatoform @dme2406 @KPDarb @seasquirrel @galileo @azcowboy) who have posted in the past 24 months hoping that might be willing to come back and engage in our niche of the Alden world. Thankfully a few have been very helpful.

 

[KPDarb]

I do wish ordering from anatomica was easier in the states but I never made an honest effort... I do lust over their unlined double stitch cap toe boot * shivers *


First proper wear on my 54321 today.

 

[sansimeon]

I do wish ordering from anatomica was easier in the states but I never made an honest effort... I do lust over their unlined double stitch cap toe boot * shivers *


First proper wear on my 54321 today.

View attachment 1594882

Nice!

I’ve been keeping my pair by the window for a few weeks in an attempt to lighten the color. Forgot to take before pics so I’m not sure how much they’ve changed..

 

[Skemaddict]

To my chagrin, I found a terrible irony: Alden does not allow U.S. retailers to order special makeups in shell cordovan. Moulded Shoe has an awesome #8 captoe boot, but only because it was "grandfathered in" (they've been selling Aldens since the 40's).

Basically, I found that only the Japanese and French market (to my knowledge from my limited research) are privy to shell cordovan Modified Last shoes.

Does anyone know why Alden does this? What's their reasoning?

Newbie here, and I don't know why Alden does this but what I know is that back in the eigthies, Pierre Fournier from Anatomica was running the Hémisphère store in Paris, selling Alden. He was already talking with them about ordering old military models with the modified last. From what I heard Alden was reluctant to do so because it was difficult to put them back in production maybe because they were different from the usual one. My take on that is they Alden did not believe at the time that it could be an interesting business for them. I bought my first modified last form Anatomica Paris in 1995 (left on photo) its difficult to go back then... I am up to seven pairs now and my wife's is up to four.

 

[Beaulieu724]

Moulded Shoe is potentially going to order a modified lasted color 8 cordovan wingtip boot with a leather sole. Sharing here in case anyone else might be interested in this style without having to fly to France for a visit to Anatomica. I am an 11.5 B and can only order shoes as an add-to-run, so I’m hoping this makeup gets enough interest to be made!! It’s one of my grail boots. call the shop if you’re interested https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/open-orders