Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read

[NYCTechNerd]

They look a whole lot better in person than they do on the web. The boots are quite sleek, if you are into boots. I am surprised you went to Moulded Shoe and still feel they are ugly, The boots look better than Barrie, I think.

Regarding shoes, I only have experience with the rubber sole numbers that have room for an orthotic, so these are the ones that should really look dorky, but they don't. The leather soled ones are obviously nicer looking.

At any rate, I have a moc toe snuff suede and a nubuck tan one in the rubber soles. I get a lot of complements for both, although nubuck is a little difficult to keep clean. I highly recommend snuff suede for shoes. They look good.

It was sort of my own fault because on that visit I had less than 30 minutes to spend at the store with Ronnie and even after he looked at my feet and watched me walk resulting in his diagnosis of Modified last for me, I still wanted to try on several pairs of non modified lasted shoes I had previously seen on his "last pairs" page. He obliged and when I realized none of them fit, which he was really gracious about, I only had time to try on these two Modified lasted shoes:

• The Hunter Green suede Derby looked great but was too big and he did not have my size in-stock
• A black suede NST that was my size but I am not into black suede and the proportions looked off to me

That is a long way of saying that I do not think they all look orthopedic and I do not need the ones made for orthotics. Basically, my forefoot is wide and flairs out, my heel is very narrow, I have a normal arch and instep making me an almost perfect candidate for the Modified last. I was rushed and only got to a see a few shoes and must have been focused on the shelf area that seemed to have many of the black and brown thick soled orthopedic looking Alden shoes on the Modified last. As you suggested, the website pictures are deceiving and I will not be back at his store in some time so was hoping for advice from others. As far as I can tell, PTBs, LWBs, SWBs, and cap toes look good on Modified but some of the sleeker styles such as an NST look out of proportion.

I am not really into boots so any shoe suggestions (or model numbers for the ones you did recommend)?

 

[BoydsShoes]

I am not really into boots so any shoe suggestions (or model numbers for the ones you did recommend)?

So I have two shoes and one boot, but all have room for orthotic inserts and I really like them. They wouldn't be for you, since you would need to use the foam insert they come with, and it is just not the same experience.

I think the black suede number you showed looks good. When you view from top, all ML shoes look good. I have D8619, which is a beautiful shoe, but looks weird on the website because, hey, its Moulded Shoe and that the way we take pictures. The other shoe is D7404, a huge attractant of female attention, if you can believe it, although nubuck is a true pain to take care of. Then I have the CXL boot D8816h, fits me like a charm.

Since I have an orthotic, the D7404 and D8619 are workhorses. The last two summers I wore them every day, and since covid, I have worn them about 3 days a week. I have only replaced one of the heels on one I bought in Dec, 2017, the other is still perfectly fine.

IN the leather soles, almost all the suede numbers on the website look beautiful to me! I wish I could wear them! Next time I am in NYC, maybe I will try them on with the orthotic.

 

[BoydsShoes]

I am not really into boots so any shoe suggestions (or model numbers for the ones you did recommend)?
[/QUOTE]

One more thing. Because I wear orthotics, I have gone to boots only for non-ML footwear, and only ML for shoes. This has definitely been the route to happy feet. My approach is snug in heel, firm around midsole and space to spread around the toes. ML and 379X basically fit those needs, although 379X is a tad too tight in the instep for this high instep guy.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

So I have two shoes and one boot, but all have room for orthotic inserts and I really like them. They wouldn't be for you, since you would need to use the foam insert they come with, and it is just not the same experience.

I think the black suede number you showed looks good. When you view from top, all ML shoes look good. I have D8619, which is a beautiful shoe, but looks weird on the website because, hey, its Moulded Shoe and that the way we take pictures. The other shoe is D7404, a huge attractant of female attention, if you can believe it, although nubuck is a true pain to take care of. Then I have the CXL boot D8816h, fits me like a charm.

Since I have an orthotic, the D7404 and D8619 are workhorses. The last two summers I wore them every day, and since covid, I have worn them about 3 days a week. I have only replaced one of the heels on one I bought in Dec, 2017, the other is still perfectly fine.

IN the leather soles, almost all the suede numbers on the website look beautiful to me! I wish I could wear them! Next time I am in NYC, maybe I will try them on with the orthotic.

One more thing. Because I wear orthotics, I have gone to boots only for non-ML footwear, and only ML for shoes. This has definitely been the route to happy feet. My approach is snug in heel, firm around midsole and space to spread around the toes. ML and 379X basically fit those needs, although 379X is a tad too tight in the instep for this high instep guy.

The D8619 (left) you have is really nice and the closest I could find in the non-orthotic version is the 54910 (center) but I also really like the 5635 (right):

Your D7407 (left) is another great shoe and looks similar to the stock 9431S (Center, on Barrie) but unfortunately many of the PTBs on Modified from Moulded have the added depth for an orthotic. I would also be interested in the D7401 (right) but it too comes with the added depth which I do not need. I am not sure what you mean about nubuck being difficult as I just treat it like suede by using a waterproof spray and wiping down when it gets dirt/spills/etc. on it.

I should not get several pairs all at once (not that I need that many), so I am focusing on versatile styles, leathers, and colors that will work with a variety of wardrobes from very casual (i.e. jeans, chinos) to business casual (i.e. chinos, wool trousers) plus one pair for suits so probably: 1 suede shoe PTB or LWB, 1 brown calfskin shoe PTB or LWB, and 1 black calfskin captoe such as the 558 (right), 55909 (center), or 5409 (right).

The frustrating part is now after a 2 year journey I know what works for me and where to get it but when I take out added depth insole styles, take out styles that do not interest me, and then realize what is actually in-stock for the styles I do like, that is a very small group of choices which while it might be good for my wallet, is not so fun for my style.

I really appreciate your help and support.

 

[BoydsShoes]

It was sort of my own fault because on that visit I had less than 30 minutes to spend at the store with Ronnie and even after he looked at my feet and watched me walk resulting in his diagnosis of Modified last for me, I still wanted to try on several pairs of non modified lasted shoes I had previously seen on his "last pairs" page. He obliged and when I realized none of them fit, which he was really gracious about, I only had time to try on these two Modified lasted shoes:

• The Hunter Green suede Derby looked great but was too big and he did not have my size in-stock
• A black suede NST that was my size but I am not into black suede and the proportions looked off to me

View attachment 1572327 View attachment 1572334

I am not really into boots so any shoe suggestions (or model numbers for the ones you did recommend)?

Everyone’s taste is different but those cap toed brown suede ones are awesome. Alden doesn’t do that color too much. They probably look even better in person.

I find nubuck harder to deal with than suede. A few food stains in snuff suede just kind of blend in. A food dropling goes kerplatt on nubuck, run to the corn starch. I wash them every 6 months.

At any rate, they are well loved after 3.5 years, and have become quite comfortable. The grease stains? My personal patina.

 

[zargoz]

Not much engagement here in several months. As a person who after 2 years of trying to find shoes that fit just learned from one visit to Moulded Shoe that the Modified is "made for people with feet like yours", what are some styles on the Modified last that do not look too orthopedic?

For me, one of the quintessential Modified styles is the v-tip. I think this pattern looks great in leather, suede, or cordovan, everything. E.g. https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d9627

I also like the PCTs, going to order this one myself: https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d9521

Boots, the only one I own is this guy, they have similar make ups in other materials https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d8814

I don't think any of these veer into orthopedic territory...

 

[sargeinaz]

Wow those black suede NSTs are amazing. I wonder why they rarely do that style on the modified last? It’s always the V-tip which I like far less.

also, there are never oxfords on the modified last either. I wonder why.

 

[BoydsShoes]

Wow those black suede NSTs are amazing. I wonder why they rarely do that style on the modified last? It’s always the V-tip which I like far less.

also, there are never oxfords on the modified last either. I wonder why.

I like those black ones too. It's a good thing I swore off single leather soles to protect my metatarsals and Sam refuses to let me try on anything other than rubber soled shoes at Moulded Shoe. Which brings up another point, why don't they do double leather in ML? It seems more orthopedically correct, and certainly provide a lot of protection for the soles.

Regarding oxfords, this is for shoe experts, but by definition, ML is a derby that uses the stitch of the derby to support the arch.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

For me, one of the quintessential Modified styles is the v-tip. I think this pattern looks great in leather, suede, or cordovan, everything. E.g. https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d9627
I also like the PCTs, going to order this one myself: https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d9521
Boots, the only one I own is this guy, they have similar make ups in other materials https://www.mouldedshoeny.com/shop/d8814
I don't think any of these veer into orthopedic territory...

They do not but as @BoydsShoes suggested, the pictures can be deceiving.

also, there are never oxfords on the modified last either. I wonder why.

...why don't they do double leather in ML? It seems more orthopedically correct, and certainly provide a lot of protection for the soles....Regarding oxfords, this is for shoe experts, but by definition, ML is a derby that uses the stitch of the derby to support the arch.

I am not sure why they don't do oxfords but if @BoydsShoes is correct, it may be why I have been unable to find a true PTB on the Modified last. Also, read below...

As to why they do not do certain styles or double soles or reverse welts, a little birdie close to Alden (but not anyone from Moulded Shoe) told me that some of these items get a high failure rate when manufactured on the very "shapely" Modified last so Alden simply will not do them anymore.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

I did not get much traction on the Alden thread so I am reposting here and hoping a few of you (@DrapeauNoir @Jason Kadushin @Sudonihm @DuckOB @somatoform @dme2406 @KPDarb @seasquirrel @galileo @azcowboy) who have posted in the past 24 months might be willing to advise...

Following up to the insight I gained from Ronnie at Moulded Shoe that I am a perfect fit for the Modified last (and the past 18 months of trying on more than 30 pairs of AE shoes), I am considering selling my worn twice for less than 15 minutes each time Brooks Brothers x Alden Cap Toe Bluchers in 10D on Snap last (one pair in walnut brown shown, one pair in black not shown).

If you compare my 10D BB x Alden on Snap last fit especially around the ankles/heel area to my 9.5D Barrie lasted 9794, there is a significant difference in that the Barrie is a much closer fit and it is not necessarily known for a narrow heel area. I will only use the BB x Alden pairs when I need to wear a suit which might be 2-3 times a year for family/friend events but never again at work. Do I sell both BB x Alden and get 1 pair of better fitting black calfskin cap toes on Modified? It is not so much about the money but rather having two pair of ill fitting shoes sitting in the back of my closet not being used.

I am also not sure why most (by reading older posts in this thread) who fit Modified say Barrie does not work for them. I am still trying to figure this all out but Barrie has been the best fitting last of any brand for me even before I recently found Modified. According to Ronnie from Moulded and as mentioned earlier, I have a wide and flared forepart, normal arch, normal instep, and narrow heel.

 

[BoydsShoes]

I did not get much traction on the Alden thread so I am reposting here and hoping a few of you (@DrapeauNoir @Jason Kadushin @Sudonihm @DuckOB @somatoform @dme2406 @KPDarb @seasquirrel @galileo @azcowboy) who have posted in the past 24 months might be willing to advise...

Following up to the insight I gained from Ronnie at Moulded Shoe that I am a perfect fit for the Modified last (and the past 18 months of trying on more than 30 pairs of AE shoes), I am considering selling my worn twice for less than 15 minutes each time Brooks Brothers x Alden Cap Toe Bluchers in 10D on Snap last (one pair in walnut brown shown, one pair in black not shown).

If you compare my 10D BB x Alden on Snap last fit especially around the ankles/heel area to my 9.5D Barrie lasted 9794, there is a significant difference in that the Barrie is a much closer fit and it is not necessarily known for a narrow heel area. I will only use the BB x Alden pairs when I need to wear a suit which might be 2-3 times a year for family/friend events but never again at work. Do I sell both BB x Alden and get 1 pair of better fitting black calfskin cap toes on Modified? It is not so much about the money but rather having two pair of ill fitting shoes sitting in the back of my closet not being used.

View attachment 1572711 View attachment 1572715

I am also not sure why most (by reading older posts in this thread) who fit Modified say Barrie does not work for them. I am still trying to figure this all out but Barrie has been the best fitting last of any brand for me even before I recently found Modified. According to Ronnie from Moulded and as mentioned earlier, I have a wide and flared forepart, normal arch, normal instep, and narrow heel.

The suede fit you better than the calfskin, at least from the pictures.

I absolutely cannot wear a Barrie lasted show. I bought one, wore it until I finally gave up and compounded my foot problems, then persisted in trying out and returning several different sizes. It's too wide in the heal for me, and too short in the instep. My instep is high and long. To get a close to proper fit, I have to do TTS, sort of, then give up.

After being in several lasts that I can make work in boots, and ML in shoes, there is no question Barrie feels bad on my feet. Its immediately noticeable. But its great, because the majority of special make-ups are on Barrie, and I can just ignore them. Makes me happy.

 

[KPDarb]

Barrie and Modified couldnt be more different in terms in nearly every aspect of the last. For me, Barrie is a symmetrical last with a low heel that does not offer any offset. Due to the low heel, my toes splay and by the time the toe box is comfortable, there is tons of excess volume elsewhere in the shoe. On the flip side, if i got down a width, toes are cramped but i get a perfect cone fit. The curvature of Modified offers a much more secure fit around the cone which secures the heel, as well, and leaves volume for the toes. Barrie is intended as a neutral last which is why it fits a broad range of people.

Judging from the facing gaps on the snuff lwb id hazard a guess that you have relatively flat feet. The snap last, based on Hampton has a higher heel and more curvature than barrie. What makes barrie fit you so well is what is causing the gaps on the snap last.

It goes to show how different feet really are... I love hampton and modified because i have a boney ankle/heel with a high arch and wide forefoot and they provide some curvature. I need a last with a higher heel to fill my arch and fit my toes otherwise its like im wear clogs...



Anyway, here are some of my modified pick ups..

New 54321 next to 4 year old 975


Fit pic in PJs but haven't yet been worn.


Modified indy- almost a year old



Super special cigar v-tip

 

[KPDarb]

The suede fit you better than the calfskin, at least from the pictures.

I absolutely cannot wear a Barrie lasted show. I bought one, wore it until I finally gave up and compounded my foot problems, then persisted in trying out and returning several different sizes. It's too wide in the heal for me, and too short in the instep. My instep is high and long. To get a close to proper fit, I have to do TTS, sort of, then give up.

After being in several lasts that I can make work in boots, and ML in shoes, there is no question Barrie feels bad on my feet. Its immediately noticeable. But its great, because the majority of special make-ups are on Barrie, and I can just ignore them. Makes me happy.

Its funny you say that about special make ups... I'm in the same boat that not amount of rare shell if worth a bad fit and so many are on barrie. I've been on TSM special shell email list for a couple years now waiting on a trubalance make up. Ive received 5 emails for barrie make ups but didnt get the ravello indy... such a fun game haha

 

[galileo]

Sell the Barrie and SNAP pair. To me Modified or 379X in correct size fit much better than any last, beside bespoke with specified arch support and long heel stiffener inside

 

[KPDarb]

Sell the Barrie and SNAP pair. To me Modified or 379X in correct size fit much better than any last, beside bespoke with specified arch support and long heel stiffener inside

I really love 379x as a boot last. Such a classic look.