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Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roguls, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    Would like to hear more on this, and why calfskin only?
     
  2. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    I was under the impression that the Forrest last from Carmina has a narrow(er) waist.
     
  3. FrankCowperwood

    FrankCowperwood Senior member

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    ^My take is that Forest past fit is more similar to Alden Aberdeen or possibly Hampton that Modified. It does have a reasonable amount of arch support, but not to the degree of Modified.
     
  4. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    I'll take what I can get. Thanks Frank. I'm actually contemplating a black shell cap toe by George Cleverly.
     
  5. nhannon

    nhannon Senior member

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    I'm curious, what is the best way to order from Anatomica. Are people sending emails? International calls? Do they have English-speaking staff?


    Is anyone interested in the black suede PCT boot on a single leather sole from Moulded Shoe? I recently wrote to Rafael who said they had no plans to re-order this style unless they could get 6+ confirmed orders.

    [​IMG]

    I thought the suede might be a cheeky alternative to an otherwise formal black boot. I also have a handful of foot issues (one of the reasons why I wear the Mod last), and I find the suede to be more comfortable on the top of my foot than calf or shell.


    In his email Rafael also listed a few of the open/pending orders. A few interesting combinations in case anyone was interested:

    -black alpine wing tip boot (lug soles)
    -black alpine indy boot
    -brown alpine indy boot
    -brown chromexcel wing tip boot
    -burgundy calf plain toe boot




    Lastly, this question isn't specific to the modified last, but does anyone know how Alden's margins compare on shell sales vs. calf/suede? Obviously price is higher, but how much higher are costs?
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  6. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    I don't dabble in black suede sadly, but the black indy might interest me.. thanks for the heads up [​IMG]
     
  7. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    Generally, I would add about $200 for shell.

    Black suede doesn't do it for me. Brown, tan, snuff, navy suede are all great colors (I have make ups in each).

    Black alpine is great. The texture of the leather makes it much more interesting than standard black. At the moment, I'd be interested in a black shell boot. But not much else in black.
     
  8. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    I agree, black shell I'm in no question for almost any offering (prefer boot)
     
  9. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    I would prefer a boot myself. I'm intrigued by the neo-cork sole but I can do a single leather sole too. I'd like to have a cap toe with all eyelets, but I'm willing to consider a plain toe as well.

    ****Edit*****

    Specifically, nickel eyelets to add some contrast.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  10. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

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    Because cordovan is Anatomica-pricing. Cordovan is an option, at 1100+. At that price point, you may want to just bite the bullet and get a pair from Anatomica.
     
  11. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    When you hit $1100+ for a pair of Aldens I just have to throw up my hands and scream. At some point, with overseas sourcing from France or Japan - you have to seek a better option. For starters, in RTW/MTO, Vass is a superior shoe. Higher quality control, better materials, more hand work and many, many more options (lasts, leather, styling, insole adjustments, etc) for a lower cost. You can get this done without jumping on a plane to Budapest if you do some homework on the forum and solicit the advice of others.

    I'll go one further and say that Calf ML from Moulded (and I have been a customer for a long time) are simply no longer worth what they are charging. Recognize that Moulded doesn't advertise prices on their Blogs and website - they charge more than anyone else. A pair of Calf ML shoes are running around $550 + tax - WTF! Look at the calf shoes from Leathersoul, Leffot and others - all running a bit under $500 and they are simply better looking shoes. Alden is not focused on ML - their Footbalance line is dying a slow death so at the end of the day, you are simply locked into special make-ups on duplicative styles from one shoe store in the USA (or pay silly $$$ in Japan & France). I love the guys at Moulded and I think their service is great - I am simply arguing that I believe there is a better option out there and I aim to find it...

    I recently was in Vienna on business and ordered a pair of shoes from Maftei. Mr. Maftei is extremely knowledgeable and is very focused on customer service. He measured me on a Sunday and had a test shoe with a custom adjustments built into the insole ready by Tuesday of the same week. After a face-to-face analysis of the test shoe fit - we are moving on to the final shoe, which will be done in a month and shipped to my home in the US. Net of VAT - this pair of shoes will cost the equivalent of 2 pairs of Modified Last Calf (or one pair of shell from France/Japan). Please realize that these are fully bespoke shoes and that Shell is an option (I went for calf). Once Mr. Maftei and I get the fit dialed-in I will be be a very happy man and will start building out a wardrobe.. Overall, I spent about 2.5 hours with Mr. Maftei while I was in Vienna.

    I also started the process with Cleverley - a far more expensive option that I probably would not have pursued had I known I would be traveling to Vienna for work. This pair of shoes is being built around my orthotics where with Maftei, the corrections and arch support are being built directly into the shoe. Given the cost associated with Cleverley, this is likely to be a one-pair experience.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  12. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

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    I agree, Aldens are not worth 1100 bucks. But the modified last is the only RTW banana-last made, period. Vass had a banana last that they discontinued. If the ML fits like a glove, the big bucks are justified imo. I will be going Vass, most likely, from here on out, though.
     
  13. nhannon

    nhannon Senior member

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    Has anyone tried the 379x last?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    http://www.vass-cipo.hu/Eng/Modellek_03_London/Modell_03_035_Kicsi.html

    I think if you want the Banana last - Vass will build you a shoe on it.

    And consider Maftei - he has a proxy in Mass that measures clients for him.. check his website:

    http://www.maftei.at/
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  15. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

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  16. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    For Calf, Maftei will run you around EURO 1000 including VAT. That includes EURO 100 for the last..
     
  17. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    1000€ total with last? That's good.
     
  18. Mike147

    Mike147 Senior member

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    That includes shoe trees as well. This is worth some investigation for sure - plenty of good posts and articles online for Maftei. I was in Vienna doing this last week and should have my first pair in mid-to-late February.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2013
  19. Roguls

    Roguls Senior member

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    Please post results.
     
  20. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    In reference to the Kudu Indy MTO, the make ups details are still under review. I apologize for the delay, and I will forward any new information when it becomes available. Thank you again for your patience.
     

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