Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roguls, Mar 31, 2011.
Or dark black.
Rafael told me years ago that they tried ML on a Chukka and had some issues with fit - so the stopped making them and stuck with boots. I was surprised to see the Japanese Chukka Model - looked nice IMO.... I bet the Moulded guys would ultimately reject a Chukka request.
The Alden Shop on Madison had a run of these last year in Shell Black & #8 - I assume they are all gone.... Now Moulded Shoe has an order in for them.. I have a few V-Tips and they are not my favorite style for sure...
The fact that Alden would make a special run of any Modified Last Shell Cordovan for The Alden Shop(privately owned btw)/Leffot before Moulded Shoe is complete bullshit. The crew on 39th Street was very upset when they found out. These guys have been dealing with special needs customers and general ML lovers for decades and for Alden to do this is a real smack in the face. I think the rule of "ML Shell is only for Japanese Market & Anatomica" is over gentlemen. They broke their own embargo and now the sky's the limit...
I always try to stick with Moulded Shoe and have purchased virtually every pair of ML I own from them.
BTW - if anyone is interested in a #8 Perf Cap toe in 9.5EEE, please let me know. They are a little big on me.
Dopey - Is there a be-spoke maker you have worked with in the US that you can recommend? Did they build any padding / adjustments for you directly into the footbed?
I know folks here love the Modified but all of my shoes are on the ML - and as a base line, it's not my favorite last. I want to travel to Vienna and order a pair (and take Fritzl out for for some Style Forum drinks) but haven't been able to get away from work/wife/kids.
BTW - sorry for the blast posts this morning. My Mac crashed a few weeks ago and we just replaced it...
I'm still down for a ML Shoe special order in an exotic calf. Would prefer something other than a V-Tip... Something in a U Tip, NST in shell would be killer IMO...
I agree - but, as you notice, no rare shells are here in the US yet. That is the goal of the petition.
The Japanese market do offer some Modified last chukkas. I'd be interested to try some on to see if they fit any different to derby shoes.
I have used three makers, all of them were able to build what I needed directly into the shoe, although Janne Melkersson actually made a removable orthotic footbed for me. I use Foster & Son now and can certainly recommend them. I achieved the best fit with them, although it took a couple of tries to get to perfect. After tinkering a bit with the second pair, they were able to figure out exactly how to get them to perfect and then went back and modified the first pair accordingly. In fact, they were pretty aggressive about rmodifying the first pair - I would have left them alone as they were good enough, but they thought if they were making an improvement that worked on the second pair they should get the first pair to as good as possible, too. They come to the US a few times a year, which makes working on the shape possible in a reasonable time frame. I am pretty sure that if Melkersson came here regularly, I would be recommending him as well.
I don't know what corrections you need, so my recommendation has to be somewhat limited. My needs are pretty minor but definite. I need a small metatarsal pad and good scaphoid arch support. That isn't really that hard to do. The only trick is putting everything in the right place and making it the right size. If your needs are similar in scope they should have no trouble dealing with it.
Thanks Dopey - As usual, you are a fountain of knowledge and experience in these matters. I will reach out to Foster & Son to see if they are able to meet my ortho needs. Still hoping for a trip to Vienna - but that involves a second trip to Vienna - not sure how it all shakes out in terms of cost.
I am fairly new to Aldens and recently got a pair of Modified last boots from TSM. I think I have finally found a last that really fits me. My problem is that the selection of boots, pretty much all I wear, are much more limited fot the modified last as compared to say, the Barrie. Also, if I'm honest with myself, the modified last will often look blobby and bulbous for some boots while the Barrie or grant lasts might look sleeker. I have my eye on some ml boots at Moulded Shoe but am wondering if I might have a wider selection if I consider another last, maybe the barrie.
So my question is to those who find the modified last fits them really well. And might have experience with the barrie last. How well do you think the Barrie last fits you compared to the ml? My only other Alden boot is an Indy on the trubalance last and I'll wear them but won't buy another trubalance boot. I know it will vary person by person but any input will help me decide my strategy.
(apologies if I shouldn't have posted this question on this thread.)
Trubalance fits far better than the Barrie, and is more representative of the Modified. Avoid the barrie, in my opinion. I have an excellent pair of barrie lasted boots that are simply not that comfortable, especially compared to the modified or tb last. Barrie has a wide heel, no arch support (like the mod), and, compared to the modified and tb, a higher instep and tighter toe box. All = not even close to the comfort of the modified.
You're better off spending the money at Moulded Shoe - check them out, they always have excellent boot makeups.
That is depending on a persons foot, and we're all different in that regard. Ive had Barrie, Aberdeen and Trubalance. I only still own the Barrie, everything else paled in a fit comparison. The modified does not appeal to me so I have not tried it.
If you can burn through some cash, order a pair of shoes/boots on the barrie from shoemart and wear them for a while. If you decide you really can't live with it, put them up for sale on b&s. Make sure you order something that SFers would consider desirable, of course.
If you find the barrie to be too much volume, try and find a boot on the grant last, I've seen a few people call it the "mini barrie".
Thanks for the input, guys, much appreciated. So I have one vote for the Trubalance, one vote for the Barrie and the last might be a vote for the Barrie. To be statistically relevant, I guess I'd need over 100 people to vote, right? So the last suggestion is what I guess I'm going to have to go with. Pick a last that seems to have a wide variety of selections (really two, the Barrie and Trubalance, although I've seen quite a few boot makeups on the Grant and on the Plaza) and see if one of them will work for me. If not, then I need to stick with the Modified.
Does anyone have any experience with these lasts --- Grant, Plaza or Hampton? I've seen that Alden last scale which goes from the Aberdeen on the left to the Trubalance on the right but heard that some think it's not very accurate.
I got tired of waiting. So I sold some stuff, bought some anal-eaze, and took the plunge. Better pics of Cigar to come when the sun is where I want it.
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