Alden "Custom"?

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by RSN125

Just so I understand, is MTO at Alden or EG just choosing style etc, or can they adjust sizing too?

MTO at EG lets you pick a style, leather, last, etc. They'll even let you adjust individual details, like broguing and toe medallions. I'm not sure how much customization is possible under Alden's program. I didn't really ask for anything particularly minute.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Hah! Not at all...I like the idea of the single sole.

Let's face it: the Alden longwing is a monster of shoe. I rather doubt it would suffer much if one went from a double to a single sole, unless one's shoe size was large, in which case they might begin to look out of balance.

Does Alden reconfirm details with you before it enters production?

- B

Unfortunately, the whole thing is kind of hazy. They took down what I wanted on the phone and charged my card. I didn't receive any written confirmation or receipt. Now that I think of it, the whole thing sounds a little murky. They asked me not to call for updates and said they'll let me know when the order comes in. Oh well, I really want these shoes.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by well-kept

The dark, glossy overcoating covers irregularities of tone and color.

This is what I figured. So, to sum up: stick to the gloss unless I want shoes with a splotchy finish?

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

This is what I figured. So, to sum up: stick to the gloss unless I want shoes with a splotchy finish?
You can MTO Vass cordovan. It might have a duller finish. I know that a pair of bespoke cordovan shoes I have has none of the gloss I associate with Alden, nor any major spotches. It is not, however, #8.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by iammatt

You can MTO Vass cordovan. It might have a duller finish. I know that a pair of bespoke cordovan shoes I have has none of the gloss I associate with Alden, nor any major spotches. It is not, however, #8.

How much do those go for, if you don't mind me asking? Far more than $700?

 

[johnny_flapjack]

Here's a pair of von Rothbart's from the shoe Appreciation thread

It looks like they do have more of a matte finish to them, but I'm sure others can tell you more about the way Vass finishes cordovan than I can.

Here's the link for the rest of the pics, and I agree that these are fantastic shoes

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ful#post860956

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I recommend the solution of getting Alden and then also getting Vass.

The Vass are "better" in the sense that they are made in a manner more closely approaching a top bespoke shoemaker (i.e., hand lasted and hand welted), but no apologies need to be made for Alden's cordovan or their iconic designs.

The single sole on the longwing is an interesting choice. I hope that you get it soon because I would enjoy seeing photographs of this.

- B

I have this in a pair of pebble grain longwings (light brown) on the modified last. I like the design very much and it looks right in that color. But so does the double-soled storm welted version in shell.

I didn't think this program was a secret. I think any dealer will do it as long as you pay up front and swear that you understand it may take forever.

And Vass (and EG) are better than Alden, but I think Aldens are as good as anyone can reasonably claim to need. Increases above Alden are mostly for hobbyist appeal.

 

[TheFoo]

Dopey, how does the the modified last differ from the Plaza?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Dopey, how does the the modified last differ from the Plaza?

The Modified Last is a banana last from Alden's orthopedic line. It is completely different in a zillion ways and shoes on this last are built differently - e.g., a longer shank, an extended heel counter that supports the arch. All-rubber heel lift with a Thomas heel shape. The last is also completely asymmetric in more obvious ways, e.g., when viewed from the rear, the inside ankle wall is much higher than the outside. For reasons I can't explain, this last is all the fashion rage in Japan and many of the shoes I have, especially the shell models, were made for that market.
The number of production models on this last is actually quite small.


Be very careful with lasts from Alden's orthopedic line. If they don't fit, they will be very very painful (I got a pair on the Truflare last by mistake and it was hell).

As to your actual question - I wear a 9C on the Modified last and a 10B on the Plaza (and most other Alden lasts).

 

[Bostonian]

Dopey, I'd be very interested in speaking with you at some point. I too, take a C width on the modified last and I'd be interested to know where you sourced your Japan bound shells and/or special makeups.

I'm also intrigued by the fact that you're able to go between both the Modified and Plaza last (in different sizes, of course.) Do you find the Plaza last to be less supportive in comparison?

 

[dopey]

Originally Posted by Bostonian

Dopey, I'd be very interested in speaking with you at some point. I too, take a C width on the modified last and I'd be interested to know where you sourced your Japan bound shells and/or special makeups.

I'm also intrigued by the fact that you're able to go between both the Modified and Plaza last (in different sizes, of course.) Do you find the Plaza last to be less supportive in comparison?

The Plaza last is not as good a solution or fit for me. I am now no longer buying anything other than Modified last or bespoke, but I can get decent, though not as good, results from other lasts if I modify them myself (or Moulded Shoe does it).

I bought modified last shoes in special make-ups from Tru-Form and Moulded Shoe in NY and also seconds from Shoe Mart. The seconds were for the Japanese market and include shell boots, calf boots and shell bluchers (in Whiskey!). The Moulded shoe shell models (no 8 and Cigar) were also seconds, likely for the Japanese market.