Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cuffthis, Oct 18, 2004.
(imageWIS @ 19 Oct. 2004, 09:38) You've seen them in the NYC store I assume, but have you seen them in a store in Palm Beach?
No. I've seen them in the NY store, being made for clients whom Flusser told me either lived in Palm Beach or spend part of the year there.
Well, whilst color is definitely a staple of both casual and sartorial Palm Beach clothing (I am guilty of owning several bright-colored jackets) I rarely see patch pockets, in either SB or DB jackets. I still think that Flusser should not break his own rules; especially since he is so adamant that everyone else follows them. Jon.
(imageWIS @ 19 Oct. 2004, 09:49) Well, whilst color is definitely a staple of both casual and sartorial Palm Beach clothing (I am guilty of owning several bright-colored jackets) I rarely see patch pockets, in either SB or DB jackets.
I defer to you on this. I've never actually been there.
Again, where does he state this rule? I don't think he does, but would be happy to be corrected. As I noted, in Clothes and the Man, he shows a picture of a DB coat with patch pockets that he identifies as having been made in his own shop. And I disagree that he is "adamant that everyone else follow" his rules. He frequently stresses the importance of developing one's own style. About the "rules," he writes at one point that "the truly stylish man knows how and when to break them" (or something like that). Perhaps he could have stressed this point more, but he did say it.
Then its best to call them guidelines instead of rules, no? I have the info regarding Flusser and DB suits with patch pockets somewhere...I'll find and post it. Jon.
I just went down to my library to revisit the Flusser tomes. In Clothes and the Man, he mentions the following on page 55: In Dressing the Man, he discusses the following on page 86: He is silent on this matter in Making the Man and Style and the Man. To the original poster (imageWIS) who brought up the gripe about Alan contradicting himself by saying patch pockets were unacceptable on jackets but them selling such jackets under his label, where did you get this information? Flusser himself doesn't say that in his books. He says patch pockets on a dress suit are a "sartorial oxymoron" but he does not say that about sportcoats. My jacket is a sport coat and, based on the description of the other posters, the ones in his shop for Palm Beach wear are also sport coats. Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you were incorrect when you quoted Alan as saying that patch pockets are wrong on jackets.
In fact, that last paragraph lends it's support to light colored double breasted summer suits with patch pockets. It's funny that this topic comes up, because I recently acquired a heavy weight cream linen Luciano Barbera suit - double breasted with patch pockets. I thought I remembered Flusser saying 'no patch pockets on suits' so I had to look it up to see if I was correct.
Alan is a stylist, in my estimation. As is Ralph and several other fashionistas. I have known Alan Flusser for a short while. (Few years) I have been a customer of his for 8 years, maybe. I have had one suit made by him. A wonderful piece of work and the most I have ever spent for a suit. I tried to order a shirt and it turned out rather poorly. It was the fault of the vendor. It was given to me at a accomodation price for my patience, when it finally got done.
Basically, when he comes to Wash DC for trunk showings and fitting the local 'blades', I will buy accessories. That is what my funds will allow. He has NEVER made a fuss or has his partner in 'crime' Mark Rykken. They have been the most accomodating gents I have had the pleasure of meeting. Never condescending or arrogant. I had the "misfortune", of walking in on a photo shoot at the shop, just recently. Although, they didn't schedule any one for the day, Mark as always, allowed me to see the new shop, even amidst the mayhem. Even took me back to say hello to Alan. He acknowledged me and waved. I have nothing but admiration, for his style and how it has impacted my sense of style. I would say that in some ways his books were considered required reading, as in graduate school level of learning about matters sartorial. Some of it comes off a bit dogmatic. Some I use, some I don't. I can't knock anyone who has lasted as long as he has. He has done a service to men in writing his books. Whether they are ghost written or not, they are most accessable, enjoyable and point men in a very special direction, as opposed to what the magazines will have you wear. I don't get some peoples venomous dislike for him for what he espouses.
Good to hear from someone who actually Mr. Flusser, and it's nice to hear that he's actually a pleasant man.
Anyone here know G. Bruce Boyer?
Wow - we've got members with all kinds of contacts. May have to call upon you some time.
I had emailed the Flusser shop recently, and invited someone there to join the forum discussions. I believe it was Mark Rykken who phoned me this week (haven't had a chance to return his call yet, but hope he posts soon)
Mark Ryyken is a wonderful person and a true gentleman. I know as soon as you meet him or read his posts, all those AF detractors will stand corrected.
Good work, Foxx.
Well, in a strange coincidence with this thread, yesterday I found a Saks Flusser suit at a thrift store, and since it was in almost perfect condition, I bought it. I don't know whether it's worth selling, but it's well-made. I will post pics later. If there's no interest on the board for it I will probably return it. It's a 6/2 DB, about a 42 but I haven't measured it yet. The skirt is slim and the shoulders are a bit wide for me, so it must be a sort of athletic cut. I'll post more when I get home. Oh, and it doesn't have patch pockets.
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