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Alan David NYC Tailor

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eothdl, Apr 5, 2007.

  1. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 7, 2007
    Bumping this very old thread. Anybody have any experience with Alan David lately? I live in NYC and have been looking at a lot of different options for MTM or possibly bespoke suits. Alan David claims to have their own factory in NYC where they make all their garments (from the website: "No tailored clothing we create is ever outsourced. Everything is made in our New York City facility") and offer a basted fitting where they say they can do basically everything from widening the shoulders to changing lapel width and gorge to increasing or decreasing trouser rise. I haven't come across another tailor who offers this for the price, so basically just curious if there's a catch...
     
  2. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Apr 29, 2011
    Another bump. Anyone used Alan David in the years since they stopped doing Coppley MTM and began offering their current semi-bespoke process? What they say on the website about the current process sounds promising, but I can find few fit pics. Here's my summation of their process for making a coat, based on what they say on different pages of the website. (Oddly, they don't discuss every aspect of the process on one page--you have to skip between pages to figure out that there is a basted fit, and that the cutter never measures the client.) The client goes in to discuss silhouette, styling, and fabric. The client selects the fabric and is measured by an in-store fitter. The store then sends measurements, silhouette, styling preferences, and fitting notes to an NYC workroom. In that workroom, a cutter drafts a pattern, strikes it on the fabric, and then cuts. The workroom's tailors then trim and make up a basted fit of the garment. The basted garment goes back to the store for a basted fitting. Client and fitter agree on changes. Garment goes back to the workroom where the changes are made (or perhaps in-store tailors finish it?), and the garment is then finished. Client comes back for a final try-on. Any alterations are made by an in-store tailor. If I've got any of this wrong, please correct me.

    So the main thing separating this from true bespoke is that the pattern-maker-striker-cutter never sees or measures the client in person. This is somewhere between the standard MTM of today and true bespoke. I guess you could call it "semi-bespoke." It's basically what Boyer described in Eminently Suitable as the old way of doing MTM, where the factory sent a basted fit to the store, and in-house tailors then finished the suit after the basted fit was tried on. What it adds to that is that a unique pattern is drawn up just for the client, and that pattern is stored in the workroom for future orders.

    So the process seems basically the same as that used by David Reeves, who if I understand correctly does not strike the pattern nor cut any of his suits himself. David can correct me if I am wrong. The difference is that David says that he visits his Brooklyn workroom about three times a week, where he talks to his pattern-makers, cutters, and tailors to keep an eye on the pattern-making and making up of the basted garments. I doubt that AD could do that at their price point.

    I'm glad that AD and David have started offering this process, with David offering the luxury version (to my mind pretty indistinguishable from true high-end bespoke), and AD offering a version that occupies a much-needed niche between MTM and bespoke.

    It would be nice to see fit pics of AD's work, though. Anybody?
     
  3. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Mar 23, 2007
    Sounds like MTM with a basted fitting using Martin G factory.
     
  4. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Apr 29, 2011
    

    It could be, but AD insist on their website that they don't just strike alterations of a block pattern onto the fabric, as today's usual MTM would. Instead, they claim that someone in the workroom drafts an individual pattern for the client, based on the fitter's information. The striking is then done off the client's own unique pattern, which you don't get with MTM like Coppley or H. Freeman or Southwick. This allows for a more custom fit than does striking an altered block pattern onto the fabric. The workroom might well be Greenfield's.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2016
  5. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Mar 7, 2007
    Have you actually spoken to anyone at AD? I ask only because I reached out to them about ordering a suit and never heard back. Didn't follow up though.
     
  6. Nathan Olsen

    Nathan Olsen New Member

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    Mar 24, 2017
    Alan David Custom
    16 E 40th St #702, New York, NY 10016
    (212) 227-4040
    http://www.alandavid.com

    From the work I have seen from others who have purchased his custom suits they looked pretty good there is a couple people who posted pictures on Yelp and other aspects on the web if you Google Alan David Custom on images it pulls up a few of his suits and people fitted in them.
     
  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    I would say that we now lead the way in high end bespoke tailoring in New York. In terms of the suit we put out we meet all the Savile Row association's definitions of what a "Savile Row Bespoke Suit" is, except for location.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017

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