Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Griffyndor, Jun 12, 2016.
Exhibit A: Japanese pornography
And then you convinced yourself, for some reason, that you were wrong. That doesn't mean everyone need do that, nor that you were right to convince yourself of it. Anyway, let's not go too deeply into this. I'm not trying to prove it, just to toss out some food for thought. Namely, that just because you convince yourself that something is worthwhile doesn't necessarily mean it is for everyone.
I don't think anyone can convince him self to begin to like something. There is growing up, you know. There is also learning, which broadens understanding, which leads to appreciation, which might end in affection for something.
Anyways, my analogy between French food and French tailoring is correct. Everyone speaks highly of it, few really understands what it's all about - I include myself here!
You've never seen a n00b bourbon drinker, have you?
I probably did, but instinctivelly looked the other way
Oh wait, I did. Once, in a mirror
I am no expert of identifying style for sure and I am continuing to learn from this forum. I consider myself a novice. So, my observations must be taken with that in mind.
But yes, I think people dress in their own manner (tie, no tie, trousers, sport coat, suit -depending on firm and department within the firm), to some degree, unless and until they are in an environment like a big client meeting or something where veering away from CBD will cause them to stand out in a big (and not so good) way. That's basically how the parameter is set and policed, although I am sure all firms have an official dress code in a written manual. I say "to some degree" because I think DB suits, waist coats and a few other things are outside the soft parameters.You can wear them, but be prepared to fight off the ribbing and taunting that will inevitably find you.
Wall Street is much a microcosm of the rest of the world. There are quite a few "good" dressers, and not many "excellent" ones IMHO. Brooks Brothers (which has excellent clothing), not the Armoury (Ring Jacket, Orazio Luciano, and other higher-end RTW.), makes a living down here and most people wouldn't pass the most basic of SF tests. The mere sight of side-adjusters or a seven fold tie elicits hours of legitimate but ignorant commentary by my colleagues and most people think that Hugo Boss is the ultimate in suiting and the guy that dons Isaia and Ferragamo...well he is king (of course there's nothing wrong with either of these brands). But I am in a conservative firm in a most conservative department. To see high end bespoke on any consistent level, I think you have to be at the smaller high-flying alternative investment or merger and acquisition boutique firm or maybe at a place like Goldman Sachs, where the dress code culture is generally elevated and lots of people dress very well.
Today at lunch I noticed lots of suits with and without ties, dress trousers with dress shirts and ties and without ties (some of these people could have sport coats or suit coats back at their offices) and one guy in chinos, but he had his name embroidered on his bright yellow polo shirt so can be discounted as outside the bell curve. I honestly think the Street is moving towards single breasted suits.
Of course this is a big fat generalization, but I think people dress better up-town, on Madison Ave. That's where you are more likely to see MTM and bespoke or even Attolini or Kiton.
WS is still kind of old-school conservative to me (notwithstanding the reluctant acceptance of the younger crowd's skinny legged/lapel Euro-trash suits). A person who puts too much emphasis on dress on WS can be taken as an effeminate dandy or popinjay; someone who is not very serious about work. And I've never seen anyone with a pocket square. It's just not done. If you do, you're begging to make a target of ridicule of yourself.
In any event, I say keep the thread going. It's fun and since the higher the level of the executive, the higher the expectation that one consistently dresses well on WS, the thread still make sense to me.
To quote Groucho Marx, "I don’t care to belong to any club that will have me as a member."
I think we need to hear from Upr Crust. He stands out among the crowd on Wall Street as an excellent dresser. I really admire his sartorial style.
I am curious as to what he thinks and how his style fits in where he works.
I miss New York.
Is GS considered so sartorially a cut above? My sample size is small but I did not have an impression favorably or against what I saw. Yours truly was in a Lesser charcoal birdseye suit that was decidedly the outlier among navy.
As I mentioned, WS is generally a bland and conservative place as far as style is concerned. Not too many people on WS will ever impress someone like you or even the average SF member. I may have overstated the sartorial strength at GS.
A colleague of mine says that ALL his suite are navy, shirts are white, socks and shoes are black and ties are some small variation of navy/gold or navy/yellow, rep - all so that he doesn't have to think about what to wear with what each morning. Everything goes with everything else and that saves him time, he says.
He once asked me if the store that sold me a seven-fold tie gave me a discount because the lining was ripped out of it. That's what I am dealing with every day fellows....every day.
This is my impression of CBD environments in Chicago (read: the real world) as well. Except here you'll see more horrible solid pink and solid gold ties.
I thought I was the average SF member
Time to pare back on the tie collection...
There is something intriguing about the scientific management of your own life.
Admittedly, we waste a lot of time on repetitive tasks. Having a Jetsons-style system that feeds you the same food and dresses you in the same clothes every morning might free up some much-needed headspace to focus on other thoughts, pursuits (cerebral or otherwise), or sensory enjoyment of one kind or another. Not every experience has to be one of plenitude and an array of choices. As long as your friend doesn't eat the same Swanson TV dinner every night in front of the same TVR'ed sports show, he's probably fine. I'm sure there's some other aesthetic pursuit he chooses to focus on. (?)
Agree. He's Marine (former- but they don't use that word). He executes everything he does with deadly efficiency, including the way he dresses. It marvels me the way he scales the most minimal of repetitive tasks. He's an avid reader and a true intellectual; not a bore in the least. I always thought he got the idea of wearing the same thing everyday from wearing uniforms most of his life. I was a soldier and I really did enjoy the pleasure of not thinking about what to wear everyday. It did save loads of time.
I know someone like that.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
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