After Hours Look

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by DoubleDown, Oct 13, 2012.

  1. DoubleDown

    DoubleDown New Member

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    Originally posted in MC; was recc'd to post here instead.

    Wanted to put together a look that can be worn in the evenings to cocktail lounges, hotel bars, rooftop spots, etc. Was hoping to play off texture contrasts.

    If it matters: I'm 6’ 175lb, tan skin tone, black near-shoulder-length wavy hair. My build is not really stocky; nor am I super tall & waif-like.


    Sports Coat
    -Going Bespoke vs MTM.
    -Style: Upscale sport coat with some evening-wear smoking/dinner jacket elements thrown in just for fun.
    -Fabric: Velvet.
    -Construction: Relatively unstructured, soft shoulders; more Neapolitan styling; (+) waist suppression, relatively higher arm holes.
    -Jacket Length: should end to just cover my butt.
    -Color: Midnight Blue.
    -Peaked Lapels vs Shawl Collar? (Not sure if peaked lapels will work well with a jacket that has softer shoulders; hence shawl collar might be the better option.)
    -Guidance on Lapel width? (unsure what width shawl collar to specify for a sport coat like this; guessing half way out to shoulder might be too wide?)
    -Lapel Facings: Grosgrain. But should color be Midnight Blue or Black? (assuming SC is done up in midnight blue).
    -Vents: 2 side vents vs Unvented?

    -Leaning towards 2 side vents; may look better for rare times when hands are in pockets.
    -Although Unvented might produce a more sleek silhouette.
    -Unsure which option would be better as I rarely put hands in pockets (especially when wearing Jeans.)

    -Jacket Button & Stance
    -Leaning towards Linked button (or 1-button.)
    -(If Shawl Collar, perhaps a lower button stance would look better?)
    -
    Button located at belly button (or perhaps slightly below it?)
    -(Am guessing button stance is user-dependent on torso length?)

    -Waist Pockets
    -Straight (not slanted.)
    -Besom.
    -Sewn shut.
    -Trimmed with whatever facing is on lapel.
    -Breast Pocket: welt.
    -Jacket Cuffs: Turnback Cuffs.
    -Functional button holes (4).


    Shirt
    -MTM.
    -High-collared Dress Shirt.
    -Worn without Tie; top buttons open.
    -Color: White.
    -Collar
    -worn open.
    -no button down.
    -should be crisp and stand tall/high (not too tall for head size though).
    -collar must stay within jacket lapels.
    -What style?
    -Point? Medium Spread vs Not a lot of spread?
    -Definitely not a cutaway.
    -Cuff: Barrel vs Mitred vs Cocktail vs other?
    -(not sure what may pair well with turnback cuff of Velvet SC.)
    -Covered button placket.
    -No pockets.
    -Slim Fit.
    -Worn tucked in.


    Pocket Square
    -White Silk
    -No TV fold


    Jeans
    -Slim fit raw denim.
    -Not cuffed.
    -Dark Indigo or Black? (Already own a pair of indigo APC NS chain stitched at self edge to address excessive stacking issues; thinking about picking up another brand's pair in black if I can build a look around it.) (Not sure which brand's cut would be most flattering for me just yet.)


    Boots
    -Black Leather Dress Boot.
    -Toe Box: Sleek & Pointed or Rounded? (Might a sleeker, more-pointed toe look out of place with raw denim jeans?)
    -If going with Black boot, would that mean jean choice ought to be Black raw denim? (if assumption that a black boot doesn’t pair as well with indigo raw denim jeans is accurate?)
    -Prefer Boots to other styles of shoes for this look. (Although would be interested to hear thoughts on if upcoming Carmina Python Austerity Brogue from Epaulet could be paired with this look? ... my gut reaction is to say No, as it might be too over-the-top & flashy.)


    Apologies if my questions are coming off as spam. I'm just looking for some help; any advice would be appreciated.
     
  2. mike868y

    mike868y Senior member

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    you're thinking about it way too much.
     
  3. Crooow

    Crooow Senior member

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    Without question, your trouser waist pockets needs to be besom.

    Unless, of course, you are at a rooftop spot, in which case that would be all wrong.
     
  4. Dr Huh?

    Dr Huh? Senior member

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    Unless you have some really weird body type, you don't need a bespoke sport coat or shirt. Just buy off the rack, and if need be, have the proper adjustments made.
     
  5. HelloIDistance

    HelloIDistance Senior member

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    +50. I couldnt even get myself to read half of what he wrote.
     
  6. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    1. Do not go with black denim. Dark indigo will be fine.

    2. Pretty much no black dress boot is going to look "over the top". Black hides most flashy features.
     
  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    It also depends on where you are, and what is the crowd. In general , though, a white tee, black jeans, and a black blazer and boots, or maybe a thin merino screened or cardigan is the safest outfit.
     
  8. Distorbiant

    Distorbiant Senior member

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    Know any good brands for affordable, strictly casual black blazers?
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I don't know what is affordable for you, but I have a Belvest cashmere one, a Kin heavy twill one, and a Robert Geller Richard market, that retailed about $1200, $500, and $430, respectively. I use the Robert Geller the most, by far. Anything with texture will work, from engineered garments to Tom Ford.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2014
  10. Distorbiant

    Distorbiant Senior member

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    I just want something unstructured, slim fitting, with slim lapels. Preferably minimalist. I tried a Geller blazer out before but the sleeves were incredibly slim.

    Alternatively an EG Andover jacket in black cotton would be sweet--though maybe outside of the realm of 'sportcoats.'

    Something like this in a solid black or even Navy would be ideal:
    [​IMG]

    For the life of me though I don't understand why it's so hard to find these kinds of items. I guess nobody really cares about unstructured blazers in the mass fashion world. Maybe I should just hit up Uniqlo or Asos or something because all the good stuff is impossible to find or too slim.
     
  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Try the Engineered Garments Bedford. Personally, I prefer a standup lapel - I find the neckline less abrupt when worn with just a tee.
     
  12. J BAILEY

    J BAILEY Senior member

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    am I missing something or was this a truly epic necrobump?
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2014
  13. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Still seemed relevant.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2014
  14. LelandJ

    LelandJ Senior member

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    Here's one option:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. J BAILEY

    J BAILEY Senior member

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    not complaining. [​IMG]
     

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