AE Strand - Wide gap in lacing, need advice on sizing.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Yaniel, Apr 29, 2012.

  1. Yaniel

    Yaniel Member

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    I treated myself to my first pair of nice shoes as a graduation gift to myself. I picked up some AE Strands in 10D from Nordstrom and thought they were the right size because they were comfortable. I got home and started looking at pics online and realized I had a huge gap in my lacing compared to others I've seen. Nordstrom doesn't have any wide sizes in stock, so I need to buy online. I have a good amount of free space in the toe area and I'm thinking of going down to 9.5EEE. Will the jump in width be enough to offset this large gap in the lacing? Should I stick with a 10EEE instead or would just a jump to E close up the gap? For comparison, I have some Florsheim 10EEE Imperial wingtips, but I can't remember the exact model, and they have a small gap in the lacing, probably about 1/4 inch.

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    photo by YCantelar, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
  2. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    Well, I can say that the heel does look like it is too big for you, however, if you are not experiencing discomfort in the heel or heel slippage, then it may not matter. Most of the lacing area will be covered by your pants. The general rule is if you go down a half size and up a width, the fit is fairly similar. For example, going from a 10D to a 9.5E will be a similar fit. In AE in particular you will experience a wider opening, but shorter tongue to back of shoe distance (slimming up the heel fit). A 9.5E is also wider in the ball of the foot area than the 10D in Allen Edmonds shoes. The "ideal" lacing gap according to Tony Gaziano is approximately 1/4 inch. This allows the shoe to give and flex as you foot changes shape throughout the day.
     
  3. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    You might try a 9.5E, a 9.5EEE, and (humor me) a 9EEE. The reason I suggest the 9EEE is my brother for example measures an 11D on the brannock and wears an 11D in his 1000 mile wolverine boots. However, when he was sized for his AE Leeds, he complained of heel slippage in the 11D and even the 10.5E. He ended up going down to a 10EEE to snug up the heel and give him the width he needed. Just a thought.

    (Sorry for the double post, I hit quote instead of edit on accident and didn't realize it)
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
  4. Dicky Dicardo

    Dicky Dicardo Senior member

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    The Strand is built on the 5 last, which as Allen Edmonds says is "best for a long, narrow foot." Maybe the Strand is not the model for you. Personally, I would not wear a shoe with a "v" like that.
     
  5. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Senior member

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    To add, when you are sizing, think about the intended use of the shoes and wear the appropriate socks. Be mindful in particular if you will be wearing thick or thin socks with these shoes. I would agree with above advice to size 1/2 size down and try wide.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
  6. PhiPsi32

    PhiPsi32 Senior member

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    You can try a 9.5E, but also consider a 10E or 10.5C. The difference in length is very small. Just remember that changing sizes also changes the girth. In your case, the extra volume will help. Nordstrom can order a "C" or "E" width even if they don't carry it in stock. They will deliver it for free. Just go back and talk to the sales associate who sold you the shoes.
     
  7. Snedley

    Snedley Senior member

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    That doesn't fit. You need a larger size and if it feels loose than go down in width.
     
  8. Roger Everett

    Roger Everett Senior member

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    Like mentioned, the #5 last is long and narrow. In most shoes I take a 9 1/2 D ( actually R is 9 1/2 and L is 9 ). There is an AE store in next city where I got measured and fitted. I have those same Strands and a couple pair of 5th Ave. ( same last ), in 9 D and the fit is great. I would definitely take them back. and have your feet measured ( both are not necessarily the same ). And even better yet, check to see if there is an AE store near you. They are experts at fitting there own shoes. If oyur other shoes are 10 EEE, why did you get 10 D's.
    Roger
     
  9. Yaniel

    Yaniel Member

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    Thanks for the advice everyone. My big toe, which extends the furthest on my foot sits just under the lowest part of the medallion, so I think the 9.5 will work. I also found them on Amazon and as a prime member I can get them shipped to me quickly in a 9.5EEE, plus they're $55 less. If that works, I'll return these. If the 9.5EEE is too wide, then I'll get Nordstrom to order me a 9.5E and a 10.5C to test out. Unfortunately, I don't have an Allen Edmonds store within 100 miles of me. Miami seems to be a blackhole for anything clothing related that I actually like.

    Thanks everyone for the help, and one last question, just out of curiosity. Gauss17 said the heel looks to large. How can you tell from that picture?
     
  10. IrateCustomer

    IrateCustomer Senior member

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    Just for reference, here is the page explaining all of the lasts for AE shoes:

    AE Last Chart
     
  11. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    My above post is incorrect, if the lacing gap is too wide, it typically means the shoe is to small. If the lacing gap is small or non-existant, the shoe is likely too big. These are however generalizations and not always the case.
     
  12. deveandepot1

    deveandepot1 Senior member

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  13. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    Really, you would be better off looking for a shoe that has more vertical height, as the problem is with your instep - the shoe does not have enough volume in the area of your instep which is why you cannot close the "v" of the laces up very much.

    I have a high instep (ie the top of my foot) and I can't wear Allen-Edmonds shoes as I end up with a huge gap in the lacing. Speaking personally, I tried a EEE in my size and I was still unable to do up the laces very much.

    Going to a wider width might help because, as pointed out above, it will give you greater volume in the shoe. However, ultimately, I think that you will be better served by finding a shoe that has more vertical volume, as I've found a lot of AEs to be rather "flat" in shape.
     
  14. Snedley

    Snedley Senior member

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    When a shoe is tight in the vamp area it almost always means you need a larger size. Then adjust the width.What did you actually measure on the brannock? Always use the arch length if it's more than the overall length.
     
  15. Yaniel

    Yaniel Member

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    I received the 9.5EEE today, the gap still isn't sealed, but I'm happy with them. The fit is much better than before, even though I thought they felt fine before. I guess I didn't know how they're supposed to feel. I could probably go down to a 9EEE because I still have a good amount of space upfront, but I'll be moving to a slightly colder climate for grad school and would need the extra room for thicker socks. Thanks to everyone for the help.

    [​IMG]
    photo by YCantelar, on Flickr
     

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