Advice sought on restoring colour of Santonis

[sidvar]

With my hat doffed to the schuhemeisters here, I would love some advice on the following issue. I just bought a pair of Santoni Brendens in rust (allegedly). They seemed darker than they ought to be but I guess I just hoped the camera and flash were playing tricks. They've just arrived today. They fit perfectly and the shape and design are excellent. But they are rather more Brown than Rust. This is what they should be:

And this is what they are:

Assuming the previous owner/consignee polished these darker, is there anything I can do to restore the Rust colour. The original colour seems so much richer and I would love to have it. Thanks.

 

[sho'nuff]

the owner did not darken the shoes (as conceptually if shoes are brown consistently all over, even across the eyelet areas which if done outside of factory would be variegated).

although the brenden model and few other classic models were reported to only come out in rust and black, they did make them in this brown color (which are not found in USA) , a color used for their U.S. rubber soled classic counterparts in elliston, dixon, etc.

 

[sidvar]

So is there nothing I can do? brown makes them look dull compared to the rust...

Originally Posted by shoe

the owner did not darken the shoes (as conceptually if shoes are brown consistently all over, even across the eyelet areas which if done outside of factory would be variegated).

although the brenden model and few other classic models were reported to only come out in rust and black, they did make them in this brown color (which are not found in USA) , a color used for their U.S. rubber soled classic counterparts in elliston, dixon, etc.

 

[sho'nuff]

trying to lighten aniline-dyed shoes is very hard probably impossible unless you want to try an extreme route of bleaching the leather and recoloring. or see if you can contact the manufacturer to see what they can do for you

 

[spence]

The two photos look like the same color to me. There's so much variation in light and technique shoes almost always look different in person.

-spence

 

[Roger]

I guess I don't see the situation as quite as hopeless as Shoe suggests, although if it's lightening, rather than reddening, that's desired, the task will be more difficult. Shoes will lighten in color if left in the sun for an extended period; I don't know of any other way. But for toning the color towards a redder shade, I think that there are some things that could be done that would move the shade a little in that direction. One approach would be to use some Allen-Edmonds Chili polish (the stuff in tubes, which is rebranded Collonil). Collonil might have other, redder, shades in their own branded products. Another, and perhaps more effective, approach would be to use some true red shoe cream--like that available from Woly--and rub in a few good applications before finishing with something like the A-E Chili polish. I would be pretty confident that, after a few polishings, the leather would take on a discernibly redder, more rust-like, tone.

As for a really drastic approach (which I wouldn't recommend), I don't think that the bleach treatment is the best idea here. I'd use acetone instead, taking pretty much of the color right out, and leaving a light grayish brown base color. I would then build up a chili color via the A-E polish (or really any cream that gives a rust tone, and there must be some Meltonian shades that would work), or again going with the red Woly cream as a base and building up the rust overlay with a light brown polish.

 

[sho'nuff]

acetone is not strong enough to lighten or pull color out of aniline dyed leather.

 

[sidvar]

Reddening rather than lightening is what I want so I guess I will try Roger's suggestion. Any sense is wiping it with alchohol-water solutio first, just in case some darker polish was put on it? And if so, what kind of alchohol? Vodka ok?

 

[Thurston]

I'd definitely wipe them down liberally with Lexol cleaner, buff, wait a day, buff again and then apply the AE Chili cream. At best, it moves you toward your goal. At worst, you've cleaned, moisturized and polished your shoes and bought $20 worth of usable products.

 

[sartort]

Originally Posted by Roger

I guess I don't see the situation as quite as hopeless as Shoe suggests, although if it's lightening, rather than reddening, that's desired, the task will be more difficult. Shoes will lighten in color if left in the sun for an extended period; I don't know of any other way.
on the topic of lightening shoes...if one were to try to lighten a pair, do you set them out by a window for a while? how long? secondly, couldn't you in theory get the same result from a tanning bed as i assume its the uv radiation causing the lightening?

 

[well-kept]

Meltonian London Tan alternated with Red Mahogany. Polish, repeat, several times. Both colors contain strong reddish pigment.

 

[sidvar]

The guy who sold them to me says the following:

"Concerning the color. I used "Meltonian #12 (Red Mahogany)" as I always do on the Chili Brendens if they are in need of some touch ups. This was done prior to the pictures though."

But they definitely seem brown -- even more in real life than the picture above -- so should I just keep at it -- lexol, then AE chili and/or Meltonian London Tan + Red Mahogany?

Originally Posted by well-kept

Meltonian London Tan alternated with Red Mahogany. Polish, repeat, several times. Both colors contain strong reddish pigment.

 

[stickonatree]

Originally Posted by sidvar

so should I just keep at it -- lexol, then AE chili and/or Meltonian London Tan + Red Mahogany?


yes, it will take some time and a lot of layers, but eventually it will start to have a redder shade.

 

[Merckx]

I have a pair of those Santonis, and I had the opposite problem. When I received them, they were too light/orange for my liking. I polished them with a brown polish and I was most satisfied with the end result. Not quite brown, but red enough to look like rust. I would add, mine were brand new, and the color wasn't even close to that of the stock photo.

 

[sidvar]

Now, that's a colour I would love to get. Mine's a kkind of dull brown at the moment.

Originally Posted by Merckx

I have a pair of those Santonis, and I had the opposite problem. When I received them, they were too light/orange for my liking. I polished them with a brown polish and I was most satisfied with the end result. Not quite brown, but red enough to look like rust. I would add, mine were brand new, and the color wasn't even close to that of the stock photo.