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Advice sought on dinner suit from Chan

Gaius

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I am in the process of ordering a dinner suit from WW Chan to replace an OTR DS from E. Zegna .

I've read many discussions in the forum (in particular here) but I would still like to ask the cognoscenti about my choices especially the waistcoat. Here is what I settled on: (?? indicates that I am puzzled)

Jacket

Black or midnight blue barathea (probably Scabal 852054), single breasted, one button, peak lapels, (black ??) grosgrain facings.
No vents, besom pockets with self-fabric lips
Working boutonniere with stem holder
Covered buttons
Touching (??) buttons on sleeves, working buttons (??)
Dark blue lining (??)

Trousers

Flat front (??), no cuffs, suspenders, fish tail back, side seam pockets, fob pocket, no back pockets, front buttons for anchoring the shirt, back button for anchoring cummerbund/vest, grosgrain stripe
Very slight break

Cummerbund
Custom made in same grosgrain, with ticket pocket and tab to fasten to trousers

Bow-tie
If Chan makes them, I'll get one to match the grosgrain or I'll ask for fabric.

Waistcoat
Full back (silk)
Front (fabric or silk ??)
Tab at bottom to fasten to trousers
Design (??) -- should be as low cut as possible since I am short and want to leave enough white. Single breasted, covered buttons (replaceable by studs?? Never seen studs on waistcoat), functional single welt pockets.

The most confusing part is the waistcoat. I would like to get one as an alternative to the cummerbund I plan to get in any case, mostly for fun, but also because it seems the more popular choice abroad. I am tempting to make it all silk, and follow this design blessed by the black tie guide (angular points on the vest + shawl revers rounded at bottom) but maybe only 3 buttons, and full back (I don't like to fiddle with straps).

Thoughs?

Many thanks! -- G
 

Andy57

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I am in the process of ordering a dinner suit from WW Chan to replace an OTR DS from E. Zegna .

I've read many discussions in the forum (in particular here) but I would still like to ask the cognoscenti about my choices especially the waistcoat. Here is what I settled on: (?? indicates that I am puzzled)

Jacket

Black or midnight blue barathea (probably Scabal 852054), single breasted, one button, peak lapels, (black ??) grosgrain facings.
No vents, besom pockets with self-fabric lips
Working boutonniere with stem holder
Covered buttons
Touching (??) buttons on sleeves, working buttons (??)
Dark blue lining (??)

Trousers

Flat front (??), no cuffs, suspenders, fish tail back, side seam pockets, fob pocket, no back pockets, front buttons for anchoring the shirt, back button for anchoring cummerbund/vest, grosgrain stripe
Very slight break
Waistcoat
Full back (silk)
Front (fabric or silk ??)
Tab at bottom to fasten to trousers
Design (??) -- should be as low cut as possible since I am short and want to leave enough white. Single breasted, covered buttons (replaceable by studs?? Never seen studs on waistcoat), functional single welt pockets.

The most confusing part is the waistcoat. I would like to get one as an alternative to the cummerbund I plan to get in any case, mostly for fun, but also because it seems the more popular choice abroad. I am tempting to make it all silk, and follow this design blessed by the black tie guide (angular points on the vest + shawl revers rounded at bottom) but maybe only 3 buttons, and full back (I don't like to fiddle with straps).

Thoughs?

Many thanks! -- G
The waistcoat should be the same fabric as your jacket. If you opt for lapels, I think those could be grosgrain. A U-shaped waistcoat is the way to go. Use buttons, it's vastly easier.

Note that this advice represents only my opinion. It's also free, which makes it worth exactly what you paid for it. Good luck with the suit, it sounds like it will look superb.
 

GBR

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Try to avoid the waist coat unless you really must.

Many functions are unbearably hot: You will be unable to remove your coat for obvious reasons and the waist coat will simply compound the problem.

Going without the waist coat will cause a problem as the coat will need to be bigger to wear over it, when you do not wear the waist coat if will fit badly.

Suits/evening dress are two piece or three piece so trying to use one to cover both does not work.
 

poorsod

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Apr 13, 2005
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WW Chan made my 3 piece tux quite a few years ago. I made a black SB Scabal barathea, grosgrain lapels and 1/2 lined coat. Patrick has several low cut U-shaped waistcoat designs just for the tux. I opted for a silk backed waistcoat, because I thought I might dance with the coat off, but it does get hot. If you know you won't take off your coat, consider the backless waistcoat option.

The trousers were side tabs with suspender buttons.

I got my sized grosgrain bowtie from Budd. Looks a good enough match as far as I can tell.
 

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