Advice on waistcoats in a three-piece suit.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Angleton, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Angleton

    Angleton Member

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    Oct 18, 2011
    I have ordered five suits, over two years, from Lee Baron tailors in Hong Kong. Last time I went, in late spring, to buy two summer suits, I also picked out two materials, blue and black heavyweight flannel, so that when I needed them, I could have two winter suits made without having to make a trip back to HK.

    We're not rapidly heading into winter here in Moscow, and a friend is visiting Hong Kong in two weeks, so I'm going to order the suits to be made up for me. I think that a three-piece suit might be the order of the day, but I've never worn a waistcoat, and am clueless about what one should consider when assessing the tailoring options.

    First, I'm a pretty big guy, at 198lbs at 5'11 with a barrel chest and a 36 inch waist. For that reason, I had all my suits made with one button for a longer lapel. Would this affect how a waistcoat would look? How should it affect the number of buttons I should have on the waistcoat? What about lapels with the waistcoat? What about a pocket? What's the standard, classic, two button, single breasted suit of waistcoats? What about the silk on the back? Should I have it, or just suit material? If silk, should it match the lining of my jacket? Even if that lining is magenta or royal purple?

    In fact, given my less-than-svelte physique, would I look good in a waistcoat at all?

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013

  2. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Jul 29, 2013
    There are at least two recent threads dealing with three-piece suits in which both the tailoring difficulties associated with vests and the appropriateness of such suits for larger men are discussed. You should probably start with them.



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