I have ordered five suits, over two years, from Lee Baron tailors in Hong Kong. Last time I went, in late spring, to buy two summer suits, I also picked out two materials, blue and black heavyweight flannel, so that when I needed them, I could have two winter suits made without having to make a trip back to HK. We're not rapidly heading into winter here in Moscow, and a friend is visiting Hong Kong in two weeks, so I'm going to order the suits to be made up for me. I think that a three-piece suit might be the order of the day, but I've never worn a waistcoat, and am clueless about what one should consider when assessing the tailoring options. First, I'm a pretty big guy, at 198lbs at 5'11 with a barrel chest and a 36 inch waist. For that reason, I had all my suits made with one button for a longer lapel. Would this affect how a waistcoat would look? How should it affect the number of buttons I should have on the waistcoat? What about lapels with the waistcoat? What about a pocket? What's the standard, classic, two button, single breasted suit of waistcoats? What about the silk on the back? Should I have it, or just suit material? If silk, should it match the lining of my jacket? Even if that lining is magenta or royal purple? In fact, given my less-than-svelte physique, would I look good in a waistcoat at all? Thanks in advance.