Advice on some jantzen fabrics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Jul 12, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I've almost totally purged my closet of old shirts (amazing how ill fitting RTW shirts now seem compared to MTMs [​IMG] ). Â I need some casual shirts and am going with Jantzen, unsurprisingly. Â I'm ideally going for something I can wear untucked, so will probably go with a 28.5" from bottom of collar, and probably will go with button down (I find those easier to pair with v-neck sweaters + jeans). Â I'd like some comments on a couple of fabrics. #1 This struck me as very similar to Borrelli fabrics I've seen. #2 This one seemed like a cool twist on standard pinstripes. #3 As did this (I'd go with either 2 or 3, not both of them). #4 This one also caught my eye.
     
  2. aarghh

    aarghh Senior member

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    I like all the choices - in fact, I've been thinking of getting a shirt for myself in the pink and blue check (#4).

    Have you considered getting #1 getting stitched on the bias? I think it would look pretty good.
     
  3. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Nice choice in fabrics. I particularly like #3.

    I just ordered my first dress shirt, but haven't received it yet. Like you, I was thinking of ordering some casual shirts as well to wear untucked.

    My main concern is what the shape of the hem at the bottome of the shirt looks like. I'm refering to the "regular tail," as I wouldn't choose the square, because I don't like the look. I would much prefer a rounded hemline...one where the tail was shallow as compared to the sides. (Sorry if I'm not making sense, I don't know the terminology.) It's just that some of my RTW dress shirts have a long front and back as compared to the side (deep gorge?), which makes them look funny if I try to wear it untucked.

    Also, can someone please comment on the height of the armholes? I'm sure that most of us prefer higher armholes...how does Jantzen compare to other RTW brands?

    Finally, when re-ordering with different measurements AND different style (eg shorter length of shirt, different collar, add pocket, etc) do you just enter yourself as a new customer? I ask because if you list yourself as a repeat customer, you can either change the model OR the measurements, but not both.

    Thanks
     
  4. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Thanks for the comments. I think I'll order at least 2 of the four that I listed.

    To the questions that have been asked:
    (1) Shape of tail: IMO, Jantzen's normal shirt tail is pretty shallow. It indeed has a rounded shape as all dress shirts do, but it is not "super-rounded" such that the sides are, for example, 27" from the collar when the back is 31". This is one of the reasons I think they could make great casual untucked shirts -- you can get the back shorter without worrying that the sides will be too short. Compared to say Borrelli, the shallowness of the Jantzen tail makes it much more suitable for untucked wear.

    (2) Jantzen's armholes are definitely higher than most RTWs, but it also depends on the cut. In my experience, the tighter the cut of the shirt, the higher the armhole (i.e. the form fit will have a higher armhole than the medium fit). You could always just ask to cut higher armholes in the comments, but personally I think any extraneous comments are a risky proposition with Jantzen (I'm probably just being crazy, but that's just how I feel). If you'd like a medium fit but want higher armholes, a good way to go might just be to add 2 to 3 inches to your measurements and opt for the form fit.

    (3) Hip measurement: Make sure to be careful with your hip measurement when going for a shirt that will be left untucked. Most of us have no clue how to take a good hip measurement. HINT: Your hip measurement should be about equal to your chest, unless you are really brawny up top. I have small hips, and mine are still 38". If you screw up your hip measurement, the shirt will be super tight at the bottom and will look stupid untucked. If you go with form fit, I'd make sure to add at least 2" to your hip measurement if you are going to go with the untucked look. Better to miss on the higher side with the hip measurement, IMO.

    (4) New measurements, and the order form: I specify myself as a repeat customer, but then I just go ahead and fill in everything anew. I leave the "same xxx" totally blank (i.e. I don't change it from the default, which I believe is "for repeat customer only").
     
  5. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    johnnynorman3,
    Thank you very much for your advice. Like I mentioned, I had just ordered a shirt, it'll probably be weeks before I get it, but I'm getting impatient and am itching to order more. I know I should wait to fine tune the measurements, but the thought of waiting for this shirt to be completed before ordering another, then waiting for that one, drives me nuts. I need instant gratification... LOL.

    btw, how tall are you? I wasn't sure how long to make my shirt...I'm 6'2" and guesstimated a 33" length for a dress shirt. Is that about right? Then I should probably cut off 2-3" to make it a casual shirt?
     
  6. faustian bargain

    faustian bargain Senior member

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    i'm also 6'2" (well, 6'-1 3/4" [​IMG] ) and i guesstimated 35". i took the measurement all the way to the middle of my 'crotchial area' [​IMG] though, because i plan to wear my shirt tucked in. 33" should also work, i guess, especially stipulating that jantzen's sides are not that much shorter than the tail. i ordered mine a week or two ago. i guess we can report back and compare results. /andrew
     
  7. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I'm 5'10". For my first shirt I used a 33" length, for my second a 32" length. For my third, bulk shirt order I accidentally used a 31" length (for some reason I thought I had ordered a 31" for my previous order). My sense is that the 31" will be fine. The biggest reason is because (1) Jantzen's shirt tail is fairly shallow, especially with the gusset, and (2) its amazing how a well fitting shirt just sort of stays tucked in much more easily than a baggy shirt.

    If you are 6'2", then anything between 33" and 35" would be fine. Maybe go with 34"? I'd probably opt to change my bulk order to 32" if I could (stupid mistake I made), but I doubt it will be relevant.
     
  8. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Nr. 1 is going to be included in my next order - great fabric. Nr. 2 has always been on my list but has always fallen below the threshold. Nr.4 was a contender on my last order but I opted for another pinkish fabric instead (re: my last Jantzen post).

    I think I would have nr. 1 like pictured, with a big two button collar and two button cuffs. I'm really no good at deciding fabrics for untucked, short-sleeved shirts from Jantzen and do rather go to H&M and buy them for half the price and throw them away after summer.

    Please keep posting pictures of finished shirts . It's like a surprise Christmas eve to see pictures of great Jantzen shirts when sipping the morning coffee.

    B
     
  9. acole

    acole Senior member

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    Just ask directly about the armholes.  I measured around the seam (armscye?) of my first shirt, then asked Ricky to drop 3" of circumference from the next one.  Getting this right solves problems with sleeve length when wearing a jacket.
     
  10. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Good advice, A. Cole. Bjorn, I should be receiving 11 shirts from Jantzen in the next 2 weeks. I will be sure to post pics and comments.
     

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