Advice on proper fitting, please? (w/ Pictures)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Militia, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. Militia

    Militia Member

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    I am a newbie when it comes to suit buying, so I have began reading all sorts of articles and watching related videos. However, while the articles do a good job of explaining, the videos seldom have a suit that looks like it fits. Anyway, I could not find many examples of suits that fit improperly (specifically in regards to the shoulder), and an explanation on why that's so. I am going to go suit shopping tomorrow, and I wanted to get some feedback on my previous coats/blazers. This will help me in picking up a new suit, and then knowing what exactly to convey to the tailor. Btw, the coats have yet to be dry-cleaned, and have been paired with some black sweats.


    36R, [COLOR=FF0000]click for pictures[/COLOR] (Express)
    • Are the shoulders too big?
    • Does it look like it was taken in too much, or should it be taken in any more?
    • Is the length okay? According to articles/videos, this is shorter than what has been described.
    • Can I keep this suit, and if so, are there any adjustments needed? I will otherwise drop it off to charity.

    38R, [COLOR=FF0000]click for pictures[/COLOR] (Express)
    • How are the shoulders here?
    • Any other comments?
    • Same question as above, would I be able to wear this with adjustments -- if any are needed?

    36R, [COLOR=FF0000]click for pictures[/COLOR] (Emporio)
    I only pair this up with jeans, as it's only a blazer. I don't wear this anymore because I think I've outgrown it. Put it up for comparison.
    • How are the shoulders?
    • Any other comments?

    Small, [COLOR=FF0000]click for pictures[/COLOR] (AX), no "number" size.
    Also only paired with jeans. I personally feel this fits well.
    • Shoulders okay here?
    • Anything wrong?


    The reason I took some shots of the awkward arm position, was to ask about the "shoulder issue". Are coats supposed to do that? I understand these need to be taken to the cleaners right now, but generally, I feel that any coat I wear gets "bunched up". Is that supposed to happen? Any advice or tips would be appreciated, I do thank you for your time gentlemen.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2013
  2. Militia

    Militia Member

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    Requesting some feedback, thank you.
     
  3. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    You right shoulder seems a lot lower. The emporio and AX are way too short. Both the expresses seem too tight in the arms, and for some reason the second which is suppose to be a size bigger seems too tight in the shoulder. I have a feeling that you are getting that bunching effect mostly because of the rotation of the sleeve, basically the way it is set does not match your natural posture. Either that or your arms are too big in relation to your shoulder/chest size.
     
  4. Militia

    Militia Member

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    Thanks for the response Jeff, much needed! A few quick questions

    1. I had no idea the arms looked tight -- how could I make that distinction for the next coat/suit?
    2. In regards to length, are blazers (worn with jeans, or casually otherwise) supposed to be a bit shorter than suits?
    3. Other than the arms being too tight for the two Express suits, do they look alright otherwise? (In terms of length/etc.).
    4. Is the 'rotation of the sleeve' generally a tailoring error? I might have had some weight removed from the arms, which could be causing this?

    Cheers
     
  5. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    1. Im not too sure about how this works but just make sure its not bunching up while you are standing still which seems to be the case here
    2. This is a bit of a grey area here, current fashion trends have gone more towards a shorter jacket which is about the length of your express suits, the other two are too short even for that. But in general blazers should be about the same length as suits but here is where the grey area comes in as some suit makers neopolitan to be specific have a overall shorter jacket in general but that suits the whole neoplotian look which sad to say your express ones do not.
    3. I would say they are passable but touching on the small side just by a little bit though,
    4. It is a "tailoring error" only when it is bespoke or MTM as the tailor should have taken your posture into consideration when making the suit. But in this case this is Ready to Wear so its not that. Unless by "had some weight removed from the arms" it means you had the sleeves slimmed down? if so thats where your bunching problem is coming from.

    PS: on second look the khaki one doesn't look that bad, it probably needs a pressing though
     
  6. Militia

    Militia Member

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    Jeff,

    You have no idea how much of help you've been, thank you for taking the time to respond Sir! I am going suit shopping tomorrow, so this came just in time. By the way, I did mean that I had the sleeves slimmed down, so which explains the problem. I will look for a suit that fits best in aspects, but a new thing worries me slightly. I have read that while shopping for a suit, if the shoulders or chest do not fit well -- then to just put it back on the rack. Coat length can be reduced, and even sleeve length, if need be. But I have noticed this problem even in suits that are supposedly "slim", the sleeves are often too "wide" or boxy looking. Is this a common issue?

    I have my eyes set on a Versace suit, so hopefully I'm able to find one my size tomorrow. Thanks again for the help!!
     
  7. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    For skinny guys yes. Btw don't be so set on one brand, if it doesn't fit you well and you have to do something major to it, best to move on and keep looking. There are lots of suit brands out there best to find one that works for you.
     
  8. Militia

    Militia Member

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    Duly noted. I appreciate the advice, cheers.
     
  9. Latour

    Latour Active Member

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    They are all too short
     
  10. deveandepot1

    deveandepot1 Senior member

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    I
    I would try an L length. These all look a little short.
     

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