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Advice on next bespoke commissions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cosmic, Nov 18, 2012.

  1. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    Jul 16, 2012
    I've slowly been changing my old RTW clothes to MTM and bespoke, and I'm looking for advice on what to get next. So far I have:

    Suits: 1 solid navy, 1 charcoal solid
    Navy blazer

    My work environment is not super formal, so I don't need 5+ work suits. Out of work I tend to wear a sport coat (or occasionally a less formal suit) without a tie & either smart or casual trousers depending on the situation. I'd definitely feel overdressed socialising in suit + tie, with a few exceptions. I wear my SCs much more often, with casual/semi-casual pants (cords, chinos, jeans etc. Grey flannels for smarter occasions). The 3 RTW sport jackets I wear most often are a light grey with mild pattern, a brown herringbone, and a blue windowpane. I also have a blue linen suit I wear quite a bit.

    So, I was thinking of the options: upgrading my jackets to 3 bespoke ones would seem good. But I was also considering getting 1 or two more casual suits, so I could double them up as sports jackets, or add the suit pants but not look out of place without a tie. I could make the 1-2 suits more summer items, and 1 or two of the SCs with more autumn/winter bias e.g. Tweed or flannel.

    What about these options:

    Suits: Blue linen suit; maybe a tan/light brown suit (maybe gabardine). One or both with patch pockets.
    Sport coats: light grey flannel, brown herringbone, blue tweed

    This would give 4-5 SCs total + 1-2 flexible suits (which I could wear at work on summer days on Fridays etc)

    My main concern is that a casual suit is too casual for business, but too smart for most socialising (none of my friends wear suits at weekends or evenings), but I can always ditch the pants with a linen suit.

    Any thoughts? I'd be grateful for your feedback.

  2. Longmorn

    Longmorn Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Sep 3, 2012
    I think the first question is whether you really need to replace your RTW sportcoats, or can add to them. If they fit well and look good, there's no need to replace them at greater expense. Instead, you can add to them.

    I am little confused about what you wear to work, but if I'm correct in understanding that you mainly wear sportcoats, I don't think it makes sense to invest in more suits. A linen suit in particular strikes me as a pretty niche garment unless you wear suits all the time or live in a Mediterranean climate.

    If your RTW sportcoats are okay, why not expand your options with a couple in linen (navy, tobacco), 1 in tweed (blue or green?), maybe 1 in a POW with an overcheck, and one in a tan/camel. If you want/need another suit, I'd opt for mid-grey (maybe a sharkskin or nailhead) in a fabric you can wear most of the year. That will give you a range of all year round and seasonal options, plus another versatile suit.

    In case you haven't seen it, JRD's Guide to Coherent Sportcoat Combinations might be a good source of inspiration: http://www.styleforum.net/t/317329/jrds-guide-to-coherent-sportcoat-combinations


  3. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

    Likes Received:
    Jul 16, 2012
    Thanks for the link.

    2 of my RTW sport coats fit reasonably, so I would replace them last, if at all (I don't think fit is quite as important for casual/leisure settings as it is at work/business or formal events).

    The reason to go for 1-2 informal suits is just that the extra cost for pants is not too much, and it adds versatility. Sometimes I like to wear a casual suit when I go out in the evening, for example. I'm ok for work suits, and yes if I got a 3rd it would be mid-grey.

    Linen isn't just for keeping cool, I quite like the look and feel of it also. I have a blue linen herringbone SC that doesn't fit great, but I love the colour and pattern - if it fit well like my blazer, I'd wear it a lot. And I used to have a light brown/tan suit that got ruined, I really liked it and found it useful for business and leisure in summer or abroad. So I think a better-fitting replacement would be worthwhile. But yes, the sport coats are probably higher priority. Maybe go like this:

    Mid-blue tweed SC
    Blue linen suit
    Tan/camel SC
    Mid-grey suit
    Light brown suit

    This gives me 2 cold-weather SCs/suits, 2 for spring/summer, and one all-year suit.

  4. mensimageconsultant

    mensimageconsultant Distinguished Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Light brown suit "useful"? Really?

    If the blue linen suit were navy blue, it might be versatile enough.

    Patch pockets sound like an unnecessary flourish that might stand out in a bad way.

  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

    Likes Received:
    Oct 16, 2006
    New York City
    I would get more solids, but in different textures. I think you need a good base of solids before you do something bolder. Think of a herringbone, nailhead, or even a fresco, or flannel as a seasonal cloth.

  6. Dempsy444

    Dempsy444 Senior Member

    Likes Received:
    Dec 3, 2009

    +1. maybe add a charcoal Prince of Wales cloth. The dark gray on gray makes it subtle but interesting. Loro Piana makes a nice one in their Tasmanian line. It's got a nice weave to it so it would be a more interesting casual blazer than a pure solid, but is dark enough and solid enough to work well in business.

  7. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

    Likes Received:
    Sep 22, 2007
    If the blue sport coat you have is navy, a mid blue donegal tweed would be good. Foo and Vintage Gent have posted pics of theirs. A tan fresco or cotton suit would be versatile as a suit or separates.

    Those would be what I'd get in your position.

    I highly recommend you get the tan jacket with patch pockets, two or three. The donegal could go w/ any pocket configuration, but recently my preference has been for three patches for everything except formal suits.
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012

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