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Advice on how to make up the latest LL gunclub, please

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by radicaldog, Apr 2, 2009.

  1. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Obviously some of you are familiar with this London Lounge Limited Edition cloth. It's a sturdy 650 g sporting tweed, beige ground with greenish and grayish checks, crimsonish overcheck. Now, I've seen an interesting thread by someone who wanted to make it as a 3b, 3 patch. Very nice, but not what I need, for a number of reasons. So I'm thinking 2 button, lined, minimal or no wadding in the shoulders, very light construction (minimal and very light canvas). So a number of details remain to be decided:

    - Pockets: I'm thinking hip patch, breast welted. I've got a few 3 patch sportscoat, and especially with heavy fabrics I'm beginning to dislike how the breast pocket looks. But perhaps a decidedly sporty and soft coat looks better with 3 patch pockets. Illuminate me.

    - Stitching: not sure about the technical terminology here (not a native speaker), but I'm undecided between 'double' stitching and a single line of stitches along the edge of the lapels and pockets. I'm leaning towards single stitching, unless you persuade me that double stitching is needed for such a sporty coat.

    - Sleeve buttons: I'm thinking single button. But is that too sporty if I go for single stitching?

    Any advice would be much appreciated.

    Btw, the coat would be for everyday wear, not for country pursuits (I live in a mid-sized British city, and I work on a university campus in the nearby countryside). And I'm 1,75 m tall (well, tall is an overstatement), slim, dark, and with narrow and rounded shoulders.
     
  2. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    ...... So I'm thinking 2 button, lined, minimal or no wadding in the shoulders, very light construction (minimal and very light canvas).....
    +
    ...And I'm 1,75 m tall (well, tall is an overstatement), slim, dark, and with narrow and rounded shoulders.

    1) Construction wise, shouldn't it be something you discuss with the tailor instead of coming in with a list?

    2) Stylistically, given your bodytype, why would you say a deconstructed coat, esp. the shoulder would be good? What if this idea gives you a pear shaped look? Again, discuss with your tailor


    .... Now, I've seen an interesting thread by someone who wanted to make it as a 3b, 3 patch. Very nice, but not what I need, for a number of reasons..

    +

    ... the coat would be for everyday wear, not for country pursuits..

    +

    ...perhaps a decidedly sporty and soft coat looks better with 3 patch pockets. Illuminate me...

    ...I'm leaning towards single stitching, unless you persuade me that double stitching is needed for such a sporty coat...

    ....Sleeve buttons: I'm thinking single button. But is that too sporty if I go for single stitching?...


    Maybe it is best that you decide what it is you would like first. You seem to be torn between the coat fabric being 'sporty' and thus needing 'sporty' details... (Although I have no clue what your definition of 'sporty' means.. 'country pursuits'?). On the other hand you say that it is not what you are looking to make.
     
  3. braised

    braised Senior member

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    Just keep it simple. Go for a three button so you can pop the collar with a scarf underneath to close the front. With a cap, you'll make it through most of the English winter except when it's raining. Don't have it cut so close that you can't wear a jumper underneath.

    Pockets - either 3 patch (just live with it) or, my preference for this pattern, welted breast and flapped pockets. Use 2 buttons on the sleeve to keep it informal. Side vents so you can ride a bicycle.

    Don't worry about swelled edges or pick stitching on the lapel, your tailor will sort out what he or she is good at.

    B.
     
  4. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Thanks guys. I reckon I haven't been terribly clear. This is perhaps my sixth bespoke coat or so, so I do have a vague sense of what I like and don't like. I've just had a preliminary chat with my tailor (who is in Italy -- I'm trying to arrange a fitting for when I visit for Easter), and he suggested welted flap pockets because of the weight of the material. I know that this cloth would be ideal for a traditional hacking jacket: three button, very waisted, slanted flapped pockets, centre vent, etc. But I fear that might look costume-y. So now I'm thinking:

    - 2 b, gently rolled.
    - Side vents.
    - Welted pockets, with flaps on hip pockets. Not slanted.
    - Single button on sleeves (same size as front buttons).
    - Brown buffalo horn buttons.
    - Tiny, barely visible pick stitching on the lapel edges, not double (i.e. also 0,5 cm into the lapel for reinforcement, as is often found on sportscoats).
    - A fullish cut, to accommodate a sweater etc.

    Opinions?
     
  5. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    T4Phage, Thanks for your replies. I like the relatively unconstructed style simply because I find it easier to wear, even though you are right that my figure would probably be flattered more by a more constructed coat. But I just don't feel very comfortable in those sorts of garments. To be comfy my coats have to fit almost like sweaters. As for the sporty/non-sporty details, well, it's a difficult balance as I see it: if you go for all the sporty details in one coat, then you look ridiculous unless you use it just for hunting and other country pursuits. But you also don't want an excessive cross-contamination between city and country details. I suppose what I'm after is the oft-mentioned rus in urbe style.
     
  6. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    ^^
    =)
    Reading your posts reminds me very much of a certain founder of a clothing forum...

    and I am soooooo the wrong person to talk to about rus in urbe. The 'sporting' details that you have mentioned I would wear with no hesitation on a sportscoat in town, and not just for puttering around in my estates.

    you have said before:
    ...... not a native speaker...

    and

    ....the coat would be for everyday wear, not for country pursuits (I live in a mid-sized British city, and I work on a university campus in the nearby countryside)

    I am wondering why you feel beholden to the idea that such 'details' on a coat would look ridiculous if worn outside thier original intent? I am assuming that you were not born into a family whose traditions are such? As for working in a university city, I can see no reason why such a coat would cause offense. After all most people dress in the most ecumenical of styles.
     
  7. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For odd jackets I almost always prefer patch pockets, but for a harder tweed, I like flapped w/ticket. 3 roll 2 pretty much always.
     
  8. braised

    braised Senior member

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    Dog,

    If you know what you want then just get on with it or post a poll and let the forum sycophants dictate your life.

    As to your details, the cloth is so thick that it will feel constructed whatever you do and you are unlikely to see any pick stitching for reasons of the cloths design and weight. Two buttons on front if you wish, but I guarantee that you'll miss the third come next November. The cloth is great, I've got a jacket made from it. Stout and Heavy.

    B
     
  9. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For odd jackets I almost always prefer patch pockets, but for a harder tweed, I like flapped w/ticket. 3 roll 2 pretty much always.

    Plus one.
     
  10. ManofKent

    ManofKent Senior member

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    For odd jackets I almost always prefer patch pockets, but for a harder tweed, I like flapped w/ticket. 3 roll 2 pretty much always.

    That's how I'd go or if I was feeling brave go the Norfolk route.
     
  11. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I got triple patch on mine.
     
  12. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Thanks again for the responses.

    Manton: the ticket pocket is indeed a dilemma. The tailor recommends it. I'm not sure. I do use it when I have it (keys, usb stick, etc.), but I fear it may spoil the line. And I think I'm going to go for the welt and flap pockets, precisely because of the cloth.

    As for having forumites dictate my life, well, I see it more as looking for arguments that I may not be able to figure out by myself. So I don't really care about people's raw preferences; but I'm very interested in the reason behind those preferences.

    T4phage: I happen to come from a small landed family of central Italy, with military traditions and all. But things are quite different these days, so I (don't) polish my own shoes and I've never fired a gun. Still, I'd feel slightly uncomfortable wearing around town the exact same jacket that my great-grandfather would have worn to go hunting (hence no Norfolk et similia). Yet I can assure you that I did not learn about rus in urbe on the interwebz.

    Finally (apologies for the disorderly reply), the buttons. 3 roll 2 or 2.5 is my standard, but I'm beginning to think that a longer lapel just looks better on me. Plus it softens the fuddy-daddy-ness of the coat. No?
     
  13. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would either do that coat with three patch, or flapped + ticket. Patch and breast welt seems nice for a polished tweed, but not a beefy gun club. Flapped no ticket is a little dull for an interesting cloth. Don't configure this like a suit coat.
     
  14. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    .....Still, I'd feel slightly uncomfortable wearing around town the exact same jacket that my great-grandfather would have worn to go hunting (hence no Norfolk et similia).

    You have your answer.
     
  15. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    I would either do that coat with three patch, or flapped + ticket. Patch and breast welt seems nice for a polished tweed, but not a beefy gun club. Flapped no ticket is a little dull for an interesting cloth. Don't configure this like a suit coat.

    Thanks, I see your point. I figured that the non-suity-ness would be taken care of by the single sleeve buttons. Do you reckon that's not enough, and I should add the ticket pocket?
     
  16. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    For the record, it ended up as follows: two button, soft roll, high gorge, ticket pocket, two vents, single button cuff. I'm quite pleased, even though I regret asking for completely unpadded and non-extended shoulders: they just don't work for my silhouette, and they give the coat a somewhat eggy shape. The tailor said it'll be possible to change the shoulders (slight extension, minimal wadding). I'll think about it next time I'm in Italy.

    Thanks, all, for your suggestions.
     
  17. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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  18. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    Pics?

    Very selfish on my part, but I'm trying not to succumb to that level of SF-ism. Apols.
     
  19. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    With a cloth like that, Dege once refused to make it for me with straight pockets. They said I didn't have to have a ticket pocket, "but a cloth like that takes hacking pockets." Well, refused is probably a strong word, but they had a very definite preference.
     
  20. radicaldog

    radicaldog Senior member

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    With a cloth like that, Dege once refused to make it for me with straight pockets. They said I didn't have to have a ticket pocket, "but a cloth like that takes hacking pockets." Well, refused is probably a strong word, but they had a very definite preference.

    My tailor recommended hacking pockets, but I went with straight ones. He was strongly opposed to patch pockets though, as he said the heavy cloth would make them look bulky. He was probably right.
     

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