Advice on finding the "perfect" blue sportcoat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Buck Rogers, Aug 9, 2010.

  1. Buck Rogers

    Buck Rogers Member

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    I recently lost about 65 pounds and have the unfortunate or fortunate situation of having to replace the "staples" in my wardrobe.

    I am in the market for a blue sportcoat, not a blazer (which is a distinction that I can't seem to articulate, but "know it when I see it").

    My preferences are:

    1. I really like a "soft shoulder" - I have found that Isaia has a shoulder that typically fits my taste.
    2. I would like something "slim" - not overly trendy, but I seem to like the Ralph Lauren Black Label model.
    3. I would like the fabric to be without any type of pattern (i.e. smooth), but not have the sheen of the cheap blue blazer look - I think that my knowledge in what works in this area is lacking - Brioni tends to make fabrics that I like.
    4. I would like the buttons to not be "ship captain", but could live with something that is not horn if it were interesting.
    5. I would like the jacket to be as unconstructed and "light" as possible - I own an unlined Zegna blazer that I love and also have seen a recent grey Brunello Cucinelli sport coat from this year's collection that I love.

    Anyway, I know this is specific, but I have been looking around for awhile and I can't seem to find anything that I like - I am being a bit particular, given that this is a "staple" and I will only own one. I have never had something made for me, but am considering it for this purchase, considering that I can't seem to find what I like.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff grrrrrrrr!!

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  3. MalfordOfLondon

    MalfordOfLondon Senior member

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  4. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    I bought a signature label RL sportcoat in Navy flannel, it avoids the 'blazer' ideal while remaining navy.

    The trick is to use fabrics other than worsted wool, like flannel for the winter and linen for the summer.
    Patch pockets help distinguish it as a sportcoat as well as elbow patches and buttons like MOP or brown horn.
     
  5. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    I recently lost about 65 pounds and have the unfortunate or fortunate situation of having to replace the "staples" in my wardrobe.

    I am in the market for a blue sportcoat, not a blazer (which is a distinction that I can't seem to articulate, but "know it when I see it").

    My preferences are:

    1. I really like a "soft shoulder" - I have found that Isaia has a shoulder that typically fits my taste.
    2. I would like something "slim" - not overly trendy, but I seem to like the Ralph Lauren Black Label model.
    3. I would like the fabric to be without any type of pattern (i.e. smooth), but not have the sheen of the cheap blue blazer look - I think that my knowledge in what works in this area is lacking - Brioni tends to make fabrics that I like.
    4. I would like the buttons to not be "ship captain", but could live with something that is not horn if it were interesting.
    5. I would like the jacket to be as unconstructed and "light" as possible - I own an unlined Zegna blazer that I love and also have seen a recent grey Brunello Cucinelli sport coat from this year's collection that I love.

    Anyway, I know this is specific, but I have been looking around for awhile and I can't seem to find anything that I like - I am being a bit particular, given that this is a "staple" and I will only own one. I have never had something made for me, but am considering it for this purchase, considering that I can't seem to find what I like.

    Any thoughts?



    kiton
     
  6. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    I recently lost about 65 pounds and have the unfortunate or fortunate situation of having to replace the "staples" in my wardrobe.

    I am in the market for a blue sportcoat, not a blazer (which is a distinction that I can't seem to articulate, but "know it when I see it").

    My preferences are:

    1. I really like a "soft shoulder" - I have found that Isaia has a shoulder that typically fits my taste.
    2. I would like something "slim" - not overly trendy, but I seem to like the Ralph Lauren Black Label model.
    3. I would like the fabric to be without any type of pattern (i.e. smooth), but not have the sheen of the cheap blue blazer look - I think that my knowledge in what works in this area is lacking - Brioni tends to make fabrics that I like.
    4. I would like the buttons to not be "ship captain", but could live with something that is not horn if it were interesting.
    5. I would like the jacket to be as unconstructed and "light" as possible - I own an unlined Zegna blazer that I love and also have seen a recent grey Brunello Cucinelli sport coat from this year's collection that I love.

    Anyway, I know this is specific, but I have been looking around for awhile and I can't seem to find anything that I like - I am being a bit particular, given that this is a "staple" and I will only own one. I have never had something made for me, but am considering it for this purchase, considering that I can't seem to find what I like.

    Any thoughts?


    why not get an Isaia in a very light weight fabric? the shoulder is really the key in my opinion.. the other features are relatively easy to alter
     
  7. literasyme

    literasyme Senior member

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    I don't think RLPL will be right -- the shoulder's not that soft, nor is it that slim-cut. Then again, #1 and #2 are sort of working against each other: RLBL and Isaia have rather different aesthetics.

    I agree that an Isaia -- in the S silhouette or maybe the Dustin model (or so I hear) -- might be the right idea. Cloth is tricky, and I think you'll just have to explore. Cucinelli make navy sports coats, so that's maybe worth looking into; you could also see if you can locate a Zegna in the Milano fit. Buttons shouldn't be much of an issue, IMO, since they can always be replaced quite easily.
     
  8. LaoHu

    LaoHu Senior member

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    kiton

    Take a look here.
     
  9. literasyme

    literasyme Senior member

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    Hardly slim fitting! Though the fabric probably fits the bill.
     
  10. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    this is the "perfect" blue sportcoat

    http://cgi.ebay.com/2-995-00-NWT-RAL...item45f22fb0ed


    Almost. Would be better if it was at least 1/2 lined, me thinks. Would definitely kop in any event if it were $500 or less. Let me know if you find one!
     
  11. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Senior member

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    why not get an Isaia in a very light weight fabric? the shoulder is really the key in my opinion.. the other features are relatively easy to alter

    exactly. go for an S or V base (the V is trimmer, but typically has a slightly more built up shoulder than the S).

    or, a caruso.
     
  12. exchange239

    exchange239 Well-Known Member

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    Bored one day while in London having a few hours to kill I ran across Hackett on Jermyn St. Usually I wouldn't of stopped in but a blue blazer caught my eye. Not the coat has become one of my favorite casual/weekend blazers.

    Not sure what else you're looking for but I didn't feel like dropping 2k+ for a blazer so was glad to find one at Hackett and of decent construction considering it was OTR.
     
  13. chasingred

    chasingred Senior member

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    This thread is restoring my faith in SF.
     
  14. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    This thread is restoring my faith in SF.

    Blue blazers are for dopes and anyone who wears one should be ashamed!


    Better? [​IMG]
     
  15. Trapp

    Trapp Senior member

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    Enjoying this thread so I'll I'd try to breathe some life into it.

    What do people think of Brioni blazers? I have a chance to pick up a few navy ones in my size with subtle distinctions (one has side vents, the other center vented) at a good price. They do not have soft shoulders, or course, but I find their construction flattering. My current staple blazer is an old Dak's which works okay, but I'm now in my 30's and it could stand to be upgraded. Do people see Brioni blazers as too heavily constructed? Wondering if i should I wait to find a blazer with softer shoulders.
     

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