Advice on buying a suit

[eshvk]

Hello all,
I would love for some advice on this one. I want to buy a navy blue suit, not for work but mostly to wear at classy occasions or whenever I feel like it. I have a couple of options:

1. I can spend around 2 grand getting a bespoke suit in India when I go there. From what I have read here in Styleforum, the problem with that specific taylor (Syed Bawkhers) is that their tailoring is designed with some Indian styling (thicker shoulder pads, cuffs not exactly where they would be here in the states). I am not convinced, I have the know how to able to eye ball a mirror and figure that out.

2. Alternatively, I could get an off the rack or MTM suit. I live in San Francisco, but would be open to traveling to NYC if needed.



Thanks!

 

[Scottyb06]

While I don't know your financial situation, I can't imagine recommending paying $2k for a suit you'll only be wearing on special occasions (I imagine a few times per year at most). I would argue that in such instances you are better off buying a nicer suit but off-the-rack, unless your body has some sort of shape or proportions which are hard to fit. From my lens, yes, most often MTM suits do fit better than OTR. However, there are so many nice OTR suits out there that it would be very hard for me to justify spending an extra thousand dollars on that bit of extra fit given the relatively few times you'll wear the suit. Instead I'd put that money toward a nice shirt, tie, and a solid pair of shoes (or two!). Best of luck!

 

[archibaldleach]

I'll slightly disagree with the poster above me on spending $2,000 on a suit that you'll only wear occasionally provided this isn't creating some sort of financial hardship. Perhaps you don't need it often, but when you are in a suit you want to look your best. I get that.

How much experience do you have with ordering bespoke or MTM suits? If you do not have a lot, I would think twice before taking that plunge with a firm that is far away if they do not regularly visit the U.S. If someone like WWChan screws something up, you can have it fixed on their next visit with a lot less hassle.

For $2,000, I'd go the Hong Kong travelling tailor route or find a very nice RTW suit that fits you well on sale. Don't feel obliged to spend $2,000 just because you can, though. I've seen people recently post that Chan will make you a suit for about $1,400 with some of their more basic fabrics. With Hemrajani, you can get something for under $1,000. Obviously nicer fabrics will cost you more. You can get away with a higher Supers number for a suit you only wear occasionally, though personally I like something a bit more sturdy. You can probably get something you'll be very happy with for $1,500 or less.

 

[eshvk]

Thank you both for your responses.

@ Scotty: While, I don't have any weird proportions (I am reasonably fit), I would prefer a suit that fits me well though.

@ archibald: I have had one MTM suit made for me a few years ago. I don't have the suit with me right now. However, to be honest, I didn't know anything about suits when I got that and I can't even tell you whether it was a good fit or not.

Now, I could go the RTW approach. Would it be a wiser idea to try JCrew or Banana Republic for a safe option and then gradually branch out after a while? Alternatively, I could think about MTM too.

Thanks!

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Not Banana Republic - the quality isn't good enough. J. Crew only if the deal and fit are good and the usage not very important. Chances are that something better quality could be found off-the-rack for not much more.

 

[archibaldleach]

Well, a suit from JCrew or Banana Republic is a far cry from the $2,000 you were considering spending for a quality suit. I'd say if you can afford $2,000, you can do a lot better than either of these places.

I believe that unless you find a good sale (and staples like a solid navy are the first things to sell out during a sale), you are probably better off with MTM. By all means shop around and see what sales there are where you can get something for 40% off or so because you could find something great; just don't be depending on this.

If you go with one of the HK travelling tailors (check out the thread on them to learn more about their styles and what they do), you'll need to just pick a good quality navy cloth and have thoughts on a few other points (number of buttons, lapel style, suspenders vs. belt vs. side tabs). They'll make you a great suit if you know what you're looking for. The fit may not be perfect on the first try, but it will probably still be better than OTR.

 

[pendragon]

You can get MTM from Brooks Bros for $2k. And their off the rack ain't bad either for about half that.

 

[eshvk]

@mensimageconsultant: Thank you for the information, I will have to take a look at JCrews then.

@archibald: I suppose the more I think about it, I realize that my first suit should be more of a learning opportunity without too much regret. I must confess to being a tad too enthusiastic on my first post. I suppose I will have to check out the HK traveling tailors. Thank you.

@pendragon. I will also keep Brook's Brothers in mind if they do have something cheaper than that.

 

[robbersarb]

If I may I shall throw the hat into the arena for Suit Supply, they're a lower price point than some of the brands mentioned above but from my experience offer excellent service and the range of cuts and fabric is actually very good in that price range. The reviews are even pretty good ( http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703385404576258671135584478.html that's one however I'm not 100% convinced by it) If you're worried about fit consider finding a good alterations tailor too, until recently I didn't have the cash to go made to measure or bespoke but after visiting an alterations tailor I've had friends assume my ready to wear suits were made for me.
Also if this is your first suit consider a more local tailor. Especially for high end bespoke the number of fittings can be daunting if you have to travel.

 

[H Modi]

Hello all,
I would love for some advice on this one. I want to buy a navy blue suit, not for work but mostly to wear at classy occasions or whenever I feel like it. I have a couple of options:

1. I can spend around 2 grand getting a bespoke suit in India when I go there. From what I have read here in Styleforum, the problem with that specific taylor (Syed Bawkhers) is that their tailoring is designed with some Indian styling (thicker shoulder pads, cuffs not exactly where they would be here in the states). I am not convinced, I have the know how to able to eye ball a mirror and figure that out.

2. Alternatively, I could get an off the rack or MTM suit. I live in San Francisco, but would be open to traveling to NYC if needed.



Thanks!

I have been using suits made by Syed Bawkher at Cathedral road for over a decade now. They keep themselves in line with latest trends and do not cringe on material that goes in a suit. They even have their latest "no lining" suits which are extremely light, yet long lasting. As far as I can tell, they utilize the latest fusing material which is imported and in fashion. Maybe this reply is a bit late but just in case you do decide, you would not be disappointed. And yes, I am not affiliated with them but do know them for many years.

 

[archibaldleach]



As far as I can tell, they utilize the latest fusing material which is imported and in fashion.

What difference does it make whether the fusing material is imported or not? The issue is whether it works well enough for it to make sense for a tailor to suggest fusing over canvas and whether there are any long-term issues from fusing. Also, I have never heard of a particular fusing material being "in fashion." It seems rather silly to describe something that is not seen in a garment as "in fashion" IMO.

 

[H Modi]

What difference does it make whether the fusing material is imported or not? The issue is whether it works well enough for it to make sense for a tailor to suggest fusing over canvas and whether there are any long-term issues from fusing. Also, I have never heard of a particular fusing material being "in fashion." It seems rather silly to describe something that is not seen in a garment as "in fashion" IMO.

Yes it does describe what / when we say 'in fashion'. Does not necessarily mean you need to see it but you wear it and you know you are wearing something that is the trend. What difference it makes? A lot. Floating canvas or fusing and hand stitched. Perhaps I am not familiar with the jargon but I am pretty sure of the difference when compared to my earlier suits.

 

[Sam3L]

Think about Suit Supply. A modern fit, Full canvass with $999, half-canvass for $500. Spend a few hundred on nice shoes (which you'll wear much more often than any one suit).