1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Advice needed on sportcoat&slacks casual fridays

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TheSilentType, Feb 27, 2016.

  1. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    Hello. I recently started to give in to sportcoats/slacks ensembles for casual fridays to blend better with others at the new job (it was suits 5 days a weeks before). I'm liking it a lot, but I need some suggestions. I'm in my early 30s, in case that's a factor.

    I guess I'm well set on sportcoats for now (4 total, 2 per season, woolen for winter and cotton blends for summer, 1 navy and 1 brown/tan per season, all patch pocketed on the sides, all solid but textured - eg herringbone, nailhead, twill, etc). Not planning for grey odd jackets anytime soon. The main issue is maybe that I don't have a proper, worsted blazer at the moment, since I'm in a suit and tie for the rest of the week, will extend that to friday if needed, and I like the change of pace of more casual options. Is this nonsense and should I consider getting a proper navy blazer priority number one?

    For slacks, I have mid grey flannel for winter, tan linen for summer, plus some decent cotton chinos in khaki and navy. I don't think I'd like worsted wool slacks with the above sportcoats as I feel they would clash in formality. Is there anything I could get in grey for summer which would go well with cotton sportcoats? How could I add variety in general?

    For shirts, I obviosly have various dress ones: white/light blue, poplin cotton, semi-spread collars, all MTM. Then I have casual, office-appropriate ones: white/light blue OCBDs for winter, white/light blue linen BDs for summer, some BD bengal stripes, all RTW. The thing is, I feel dress shirts, lacking any kind of texture, are too formal vs the above sportcoats and slacks, while for strong personal preference I don't like ties with BD collars. Currently I wear my BDs and go tieless, but still I'd like to incorporate casual ties in my outfits (knits, wools, linens). Is there anything in beetween dress and casual shirts, spread collared, textured, which would go well with the above sportcoats and slacks? Or should I stop overthinking and use my dress shirts when wearing a casual tie?

    I feel I'm very well set on shoes so I won't bother you with those as this became a big wall of text quickly. Thanks to anyone willing to go through it and give advice.
     
  2. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    bump...
    Sorry for this but I'm now wondering if I did anything wrong... did I?
     
  3. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,461
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    

    Yes, you assumed that this was a free advice service and are now unrealistically impatient. Have you even tried 'search'? This is a well rehearsed issue.
     
  4. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Most would agree that worsted is not an appropriate fabric for a blazer.
     
  5. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
    

    What would 'most' agree on then? Serge? Try finding that outside of a tailor's. Loads of blazers are made in worsted cloths.
     
  6. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    

    Thanks for answering. What made me impatient was that the post had something like 150 views and no replies, that made wonder if something was wrong, and as I feared the issue is that the topic, like any other beginner issue, has already been exhausted.

    Belive it or not, I did use the search function. In fact, the question originated from reading this unbelivably useful (imho) thread http://web.archive.org/web/20120711...erent-combinations-for-beginners#post_5203585

    I wanted some specifics on appropriate shirt and trousers choices in terms of coherence in formality, no doubt the answers do already exist in the archives but my luck maxed out with the above thread.

    "Use the search button" is still better than silence anyway, so thanks anyway.
     
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Loads of blazers are crap.
     
  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    OP, if you are looking for a traditional navy blazer I would stick to hopsack, or alternatively fresco if you are looking for something to wear in warm weather. Worsted wool is a suit fabric and should generally be relegated to suits. Remember the history of these garments. Blazers are casual garments, therefore textured fabrics are more appropriate.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  9. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
    

    That's merely your opinion and beside the point. Blazers have been made in worsted cloths for many years, Serge is a twilled worsted cloth; it's common use was in making fine military uniforms.

    Worsted doesn't just refer to some thin super 100s cloth.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  10. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    No... No it isn't.
     
  11. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
  12. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    

    Thanks. I actually recently saw an hopsack blazer I think by boglioli on mr.porter recently and it seemed spectacular, never seen one in person tough. I assumed that it had to be considered somewhat informal as I thought a traditional blazer had to be worsted and that's actually the reason why I didn't like the idea in the first place (I wear worsted suits 4 days a week as I said).
    Having never seen one I would aks you if an hopsack blazerwould differentiate itself enough from both the flannel and cotton navy sportcoats I already have. I assume it's versatile in terms of seasonality, am I right? Thanks again.
     
  13. PekkaKarhunen

    PekkaKarhunen Member

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2015
    @Caustic Man while I see your point about worsted being primarily a suiting fabric, I'm not sure the evidence supports you. By evidence, I mean I looked at a couple of the "usual suspects" for a navy blazer- namely, O'Connells, J.Press, and Brooks Brothers. I know that's American-centric, but my understanding of the blue blazer is that despite its origins in England, it's a more "American" garment in terms of its history and popularity.

    Each of the three clothiers referenced carry navy blazers in worsted wool. Now, I don't claim that those three firms, reputable as they are, don't also produce some crap, but in terms of "correctness," I don't think they're "wrong" in using worsted wool. Other popular fabrics from each of those places also include flannel and hopsack- but worsted wool is definitely not merely used by the JC Penneys, Macys, and H&Ms of the clothing world.
     
  14. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    Sorry for the typos, I'm on mobile
     
  15. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
    

    It's a well-worn dispute. What Americans (and now most people) call a 'blazer' was traditionally called a 'reefer' jacket in England. Making these up in Saxony (another worsted cloth) or Serge or flannel was most common. A 'blazer' here in England was very often single-breasted and referred to club jackets (boating, tennis, cricket etc). They didn't have much suppression and were made up in hard cottons or the sort of cotton/wool flannel used for making cricket trousers.

    The objection to "worsted" in this thread is misplaced by assuming that it refers to ultra smooth super cloths that most suits are now made up in. Basically there are two main sorts of cloths: woollens and worsteds, the second being combed and more tightly twisted. The weave it takes is something else.
     
  16. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    Hopsack is very different from both flannel and cotton, so yes. It will certainly be cooler than flannel in the summer although it is generally robust. Hopsack is a rustic fabric whose texture pairs nicely with a lot of other casual fabric that you might wear as trousers such as flannel, fresco, or even denim. Worsted generally looks discordant with more rustic trousers. Can you imagine wearing a worsted blazer with flannel trousers? I, for one, cannot. I would also be hesitant to rely too much on what the older companies are offering today. Brooks Brothers and J. Press in particular have fallen from grace far and hard. This isn't to say that at one time they weren't quite good, however they, like many others, are often pandering to the RTW, super slim fit, crowd. The fact that you recognize that wearing worsted blazers is a bit of an anathema to the casual vibe that blazers are supposed to give is good. You are seeing, by instinct, the reasons why most people here shy away from worsteds for blazers.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  17. Agatha Crusty

    Agatha Crusty Senior member

    Messages:
    166
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2009
    Location:
    Around
    "Hopsack is very different from both flannel and cotton..."

    What is this supposed to mean? Hopsack is really a sort of burlap. but the weave using worsted yarns is used to refer to a sort of plain or basket-weave cloth. Flannel or worsted or hopsack is not something different from "cotton". You can have cotton flannel or plain-weave cotton or gabardine. You're confusing yarns with weaves.
     
  18. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    

    Thanks, I'm flattered.
    I definitely agree about the fact that flannel trousers and a worsted jacket feels wrong. I'll also happily exclude worsted trousers from my horizons in this context at this point.
    And I'll grab the chance and shamelessy exploit your availability to ask two more questions: the first is how to do grey trousers in the summer. Grey cotton and linen both feel wrong but I'm not sure about that. I am leaning towards fresco but I fear that 1) it would still be hot and 2) it wouln't go well with cotton sportcoats. May I ask your opinion?
    Second, shirts fabric. Am I right in assuming poplin is not optimal with "casual" sportcoats and trousers? Should I stick to OCBDs or there is some "middle groud" shirt fabric which would work better?
    Thanks again, like, a lot.
     
  19. TheSilentType

    TheSilentType Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2016
    

    Wow, this is... confusing. The existence of cotton flannel undermines my few "certanties" quite a lot.
     
  20. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,341
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    1. Linen works fine in gray if you are in a casual enough context. I wouldn't wear it to work, although your situation might allow it. Other than than, fresco. I've mentioned it a few times, it's a great summer fabric for trousers and jackets as well. Some go for hopsack trousers but that might get a bit robust for summer. Go and check out the actual fabric because many frescos are quite light and airy. Cotton trousers are ok for very casual environs but I don't like them with jackets made of anything other than cotton. Some will disagree with this, but I find it's best to separate the two.

    2. I personally like OCBD. Again, the fabric goes nicely with other rustic materials. Poplin I would stay away from for the reasons I believe you already know.
     
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by