Advice for new wardrobe; mtm or rtw at my budget?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by ballines, Apr 26, 2004.

  1. ballines

    ballines Well-Known Member

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    I am taking a new job that requires relatively nice business dress. I have 3 suits, none of which are particularly nice. The best one is a black one from HSM from Nordstrom's. I need probably 2-3 suits or so, plus some nice new shoes, ties, and shirts. Future co-workers (though more senior and much more wealthy) wear Kiton and Brioni, etc. I can't afford those brands, but I want to look respectable. I'd like to spend around $4K-$5K including everything.

    Would it make more sense to buy MTM suits from one of the places in New York or RTW stuff? Any specific brands/shops you could specify would also be very helpful.

    Finally, what is the general consensus on the places in New York that charge ~$3K for 3 suits plus some shirts and miscellany? Are these any good? Are they better than RTW at the same price points?

    Thanks.
     


  2. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    If RTW fits you, I would recommend it. On discount prices, you could easily meet your budget with change to spare.
     


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Get yourself to the Woodbury Commons outlets in the Central Valley, and beeline to Zegna and Neiman Marcus last Call. Between those and maybe the Saks Off Fifth and Barney's Outlets, you should be able to pick up a slew of RTW suits for about $600-$700 apiece, if you go for the top of the line, except at Zegna, where you are looking at a little more (closer to $800, I think). Zegna and Canali suits are especially business worthy, not too flashy - I prefer more "modern" cuts, but I think that boardroom types would frown on that), and they just got a bunch of new stuff - Zegna is more expensive than some of the the other outlets though.

    You need a navy, charcoal, and charcoal or navy pinstripe suit to begin with. Get a medium dark heathered grey suit as a forth suit. This should all add up to about 3K.

    You can probably pick up shirts at the same places, but. here, I am going to go against my usual inclinations, and tell you to go straight to the vintageUSA ebay auctions, and pick up a bunch of Borrelli, Attolini, and Barba (I love Barba) shirts at about $139 a shirt (down from over $250 a piece, minimum) Get about 7 shirts - you can always pick more up as you go. Do the same for ties and pick up some of his Martin Dingman belts - you need one in brown and another in black. Now you are probably up to about 4K. Buy three pairs of shoes. Now, the shoe fiends will want to kill me, but Ferragamos are fine - get two black pairs (you'll be wearing them most of the time and will want to rotate) and a brown or oxblood pair. That brings you to a little under 5K. Done.
     


  4. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Senior member

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    Dang, an entire wardrobe in three paragraphs. I'm impressed. As a unofficial junior member of the shoe cognoscenti I would suggest waiting out for a sample sale or the next Barney's warehouse sale in August (if you can wait that long).

    Secondly, if you live around NYC, I think that Geneva or AC MTM might be a better suggestion for the shirtings. Despite my love for Borrelli fabrics, the shirts fit like tents on me and the cuffs require an extra $12 for shortening...otherwise, not such a great deal IMHO.

    norcal
     


  5. Yosarian77

    Yosarian77 Well-Known Member

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    Dare I ask what job you are taking where the senior folks are wearing Kiton and Brioni? Hmmm.
     


  6. Mitch D

    Mitch D Well-Known Member

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    First of all,welcome to the forum..

    As you peruse the older threads,and post new ones,you'll find styleForum has many very knowledgeable gentlemen,willing to help on a myriad of subjects. I have learned a great deal from them.

    IMO,unless your body has unusual proportions (e.g. very athletic,with a large chest/neck,small waist; odd-shaped feet),RTW would provide a better value.

    Shopping at the sales,outlet stores suggested here will also help you stretch your budget. If you aren't already familiar with manufacturers or fabrics to look for,a quick search of this forum will surely help.

    Best of luck with your new job.
     


  7. ballines

    ballines Well-Known Member

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    Future co-workers (though more senior and much more wealthy) wear Kiton and Brioni, etc.
    Dare I ask what job you are taking where the senior folks are wearing Kiton and Brioni? Hmmm.
    Much appreciated for all the great advice. Woodbury Commons definitely sounds like a good possibility (and glancing on eBay seems to show good Zegna deals, though I am a bit concerned about authenticity). I'm about as standard as they come (42R, 5'11", 175lbs), and I've never had fitting problems before, so I'm thinking RTW probably will make more sense. Going to work in a LBO (leveraged buyout) shop. I work in one now as well (just not one that dresses well).
     


  8. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

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    There's some threads on the forums about this (if we're talking about the same thing). You're right to question the authenticity as there are an abundance of suits being billed as Zegna suits when they are merely suits made with Zegna cloth. You're probably better off going to outlets like Woodbury.
     


  9. VWpete

    VWpete Senior member

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    LA Guy,
    How do Barba shirts fit? I've seen some ebay ones that I love, but I'm slim (love Jil, Helmut, dior fit) and would like a good fitting selection of shirts for business attire.
    Pete
     


  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Barba shirts fit pretty slim for a more classic label. They are definitely not as slim as Helmut Lang or Dior Homme - I would say that they fit just about as slim as Prada; and they definitely go nicely with businesswear.
     


  11. Rudder

    Rudder Member

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    ballines, I'm curious about your build. How would you describe it? Like Tobey Maguire / Ethan Hawke (slim)? Brad Pitt / Terrell Owens (chiselled)? Russell Crowe / Mel Gibson (regular)? John Travolta / Sean Connery (burly)? The Rock (muscular)? I'm asking this because a friend of mine who played QB in college is 6'1 and 210 lbs (regular build) and he wears a 42R. How do you like your fit? To give you an idea, take a look at the Men's fashion pictures on the Oscar Web site. I prefer Joaquin Phoenix's natural fit Armani tux -- sloped shoulders and trim in the body -- over the squared shoulder sartorial Zegna, which doesn't look as good on Adrian Brody's gaunt frame. BTW, Jim Carey's suit appears to big for him. I agree that you should get three shoes, but I would suggest that one of them be a dressy slip-on, such as the Donald Pliner Peers. ps: how do you know that the folks at the new company wear Kiton and Brioni?
     


  12. VWpete

    VWpete Senior member

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    Thanks LA Guy,
    They sound right up my alley for work and such... I may grab one to try.
    Pete
     


  13. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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  14. ballines

    ballines Well-Known Member

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    I'd probably say somewhere in between slim and regular. I have a bit of barrel chest which might explain it a little bit, and of the suits I own, I think some are 41s and some are 42s. Carey's does look too big, but I think Brody's fit looks pretty good. Kiton/Brioni was heard from friends who were former employees.
     


  15. PeterMetro

    PeterMetro Senior member

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    Out of those actors, I think the best dressed are, in descending order:

    #3 - Kevin Spacey, can't say I like the notch lapels, but a good, classic look.

    #2 - Pierce Brosnan. As much as I don't like him and find him to be a bit of a pansy, he does look sharp. Damn you foppish Brits.

    #1 - Sidney Poitier. Both for his sweet tux and for his daughters - GOOD GOD.
     


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