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Advice for buying men suits in London

Ping Pong

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Hi,

I am looking for advice on buying suits, e.g. things that need to be aware of when buying suits, what suit brands, shops, in London. I only consider off-the-rack suits for the moment.

Any advice would be very much appreciated.
 
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add911_11

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Brands - check M&S for their fully canvassed £499 suits and Tm Lewin White Label in their Jermeyn Street store, both are fully canvassed and very good value for £500 suits, bread and butter 2 peice with good cloth and tons of quality handwork, not quiet Zegna couture but very nice.

Fit - Collar of the jacket should sit on your shirt collar when stand straight, not erected; Shoulder should not be too wide or small, should just touches your shoulder; Chest should have tiny bit of extra fabric for drape but not over roomy; Trouser should have a good rise, not to low or high and do wear the trouser properly and not like your jeans; Sleeve pitch must be good, when arms is at relaxed posture there should be no wrinkle on the sleeves; sleeves length should not to too long, enough to show an inch and half cuff but could be tailored.

It will help to bring a shirt, tie and dress shoes for the fitting so to give better idea of how the thing fits.

I believed you are first time buyer and not looking for RLPL?

Good luck.


p.s. I am in a good mood today, otherwise I will ignore post like this
 
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add911_11

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I believed there are only two choice from M&S in their fully canvassed range, they are blue self pinstripe and solid grey, both in their website. But very limited sizes.

TM Lewin''s white label aren't online, you got to check it out yourself.

http://www.individualism.co.uk/2012/03/tm-lewin-white-label-individualism/

p.s. I had one selling so you might be interested to have a look

For both the M&S and TM Lewin, they do mention fully canvassed.
 
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Ping Pong

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I believed there are only two choice from M&S in their fully canvassed range, they are blue self pinstripe and solid grey, both in their website. But very limited sizes.
Could you please provide the links? I cannot find them.


Apart from those, what do you think of this with lower budget and good material, i.e. Super 110.

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Scott-Navy-Stripe-2-Button-Men's-Suit---43440B/43440B,en_GB,pd.html?cm_mmc=eCat-_-Spring2012-_-TAIL-_-43440B

I will check out their shops this week.

P.S. my size is 36/38 chest, 30 waist, I doubt you have the right size, and my budget fits your price.

Thanks again.
 

Geezer

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Lewin's are fine for what they offer at the price.

But how seriously can you take a blog that mis-spells Jermyn Street twice in different ways and finishes with a picture where the "tailor" is wearing an obviously ill-fitting RTW suit (and has a questionable beard)?

They are RTW suits made to a price in a big factory in a developing country. They are not bad suits for that. They may even be the best value suits known to mankind at that price. I don't know, or, frankly, really care.

But can they lay off the "classic features and traditional qualities of Savile Row" bullsh1t? Paper pattern? No. Qualified cutter? No. Baste fitting? No. Further fittings? No. Lifetime service on pressing, adjustments, repairs? No. Generic English styling, lowest-cost full canvass and machine-cut cuff buttonholes on RTW suit? Yes,

Drives me nuts. It's like those stupid adverts in Sunday papers offering 2 pairs of traditionally-made, hand-crafted, goodyear welted, high quality classically elegant traditional English gentleman's shoes by mail order for a hundred quid. They may be servicable, inoffensive, and good value. But they are not bloody John Lobbs - they're not even French Lobbs.
 

Blackhood

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Lewin's are fine for what they offer at the price.
But how seriously can you take a blog that mis-spells Jermyn Street twice in different ways and finishes with a picture where the "tailor" is wearing an obviously ill-fitting RTW suit (and has a questionable beard)?
They are RTW suits made to a price in a big factory in a developing country. They are not bad suits for that. They may even be the best value suits known to mankind at that price. I don't know, or, frankly, really care.
But can they lay off the "classic features and traditional qualities of Savile Row" bullsh1t? Paper pattern? No. Qualified cutter? No. Baste fitting? No. Further fittings? No. Lifetime service on pressing, adjustments, repairs? No. Generic English styling, lowest-cost full canvass and machine-cut cuff buttonholes on RTW suit? Yes,
Drives me nuts. It's like those stupid adverts in Sunday papers offering 2 pairs of traditionally-made, hand-crafted, goodyear welted, high quality classically elegant traditional English gentleman's shoes by mail order for a hundred quid. They may be servicable, inoffensive, and good value. But they are not bloody John Lobbs - they're not even French Lobbs.

This is the exact opposite of what we are looking for.

Normally we reject a brand because the quality is terrible but the marketing is good.

"Geezer" is rejecting a brand because the quality is good but the marketing is terrible.

His attitude is just as bad as buying JAB suits and Keneth Cole shoes.
 

Ping Pong

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@Geezer and @Blackhood

Thank you for your advice. I am keen to know more on this area, Therefore, please do provide your advice or opinions, if any.

Regards
 

marcodalondra

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M&S best selection is at their Marble Arch flagship store. I read the have just launched a collection designed by Richard James.
From having done some window shopping in the recent past, their best suits are made in fabrics including Alfred Brown, Zegna, Marzotto, Cerruti and others
 
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Geezer

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No, I'm not. Really.

I actually have two cheap (deep sale bought) TM Lewin suits that I use as "beaters" for work trips involving very long-haul aeroplane trips and/or 20-hour working days, and/or hot dirty sandy places, and they're perfect for me for those purposes.

I don't object to TML's products at all (or Tyrwhitt or Hawes and Curtis or the other bargain Jermyn St retailers). I have a couple of Roderick Charles odd jackets too for off-duty wear. Fine for what they are and what they cost.

I'd hoped I'd made clear in my post I have no issues with the product itself. Quotation: "They may even be the best value suits known to mankind at that price".

But the hype annoys me. You can market a Toyota as a well-engineered, reliable, good quality car that is better than similar cars at the same price (I wouldn't know, I drive an old Land Rover, but a Toyota may well be all that and probably is), but without claiming some false heritage from Enzo Ferrari or Ettore Bugatti.

It's the same basic pitch as a lot of cut-price MTM travelling salesman/mail order "bespoke" suits. Look - working cuff butttons. Please ignore the questionable cloth and dodgy fit. We can do the button holes in red or yelllow thread if you like. Cool, eh? How about five cuff buttons? No, it's supposed to fit like that, silly you. How about six cuff buttons?

If they work for you, buy the clothes. Just don't buy the PR guff (which applies also though perhaps to a slightly lesser extent to some very famous bespoke tailors).
 
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Ping Pong

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M&S best selection is at their Marble Arch flagship store. I read the have just launched a collection designed by Richard James.
From have done some window shopping in the recent past, their best suits are made in fabrics including Alfred Brown, Zegna, Marzotto, Cerruti and others
Thank you for your advice. I will check out that store for those you recommended.

Which one you prefer between these two below:

1)
http://www.marksandspencer.com/Savile-Row-Inspired-Striped-Button/dp/B0037GUD6K?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_4&nodeId=1634468031&sr=1-4&qid=1334092690&pf_rd_r=16FBMA7WZBMJTMNX8WA4&pf_rd_m=A2BO0OYVBKIQJM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=1634468031&pf_rd_p=215570647&pf_rd_s=related-items-3

Savile Row Inspired Pure Wool Striped 2 Button Suit



2)
http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Scott-Navy-Stripe-2-Button-Men's-Suit---43440B/43440B,en_GB,pd.html?cm_mmc=eCat-_-Spring2012-_-TAIL-_-43440B
Super 110 Australian Merino Wool
Scott Navy Stripe 2-Button Men's Suit - 43440B


Why this one is more expensive than 1)

Savile Row Inspired Pure Wool 1 Button Striped Suit £349.00
http://www.marksandspencer.com/Savile-Row-Inspired-Button-Striped/dp/B0035RT9M0?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_3&nodeId=1634468031&sr=1-3&qid=1334092690&pf_rd_r=16FBMA7WZBMJTMNX8WA4&pf_rd_m=A2BO0OYVBKIQJM&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=1634468031&pf_rd_p=215570647&pf_rd_s=related-items-3
 

add911_11

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If I really got to put my finger between 1 and 2, at least I would say TM Lewin had a more form fit in most of the line than M&S, it is really M&S fully canvassed that is well executed and some thoughts on the fit.

However I don't think either of them will be as nice as the fully canvassed I had suggested, so brutally honest just go with them, finger cross on the fit because they are definitely not design for slim build.

Try some on, they might fit you but the chance are you need major tailoring on all OTR unless you are in Japan where they do real slim 38R with bespoke clothes and linen canvass, or tom ford which is well known for their totally trim design

TM white label do have a pinstripe I recall, a charcoal grey if I am correct, just check them out during in london.
 

add911_11

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No, I'm not. Really.
I actually have two cheap (deep sale bought) TM Lewin suits that I use as "beaters" for work trips involving very long-haul aeroplane trips and/or 20-hour working days, and/or hot dirty sandy places, and they're perfect for me for those purposes.
I don't object to TML's products at all (or Tyrwhitt or Hawes and Curtis or the other bargain Jermyn St retailers). I have a couple of Roderick Charles odd jackets too for off-duty wear. Fine for what they are and what they cost.
I'd hoped I'd made clear in my post I have no issues with the product itself. Quotation: "They may even be the best value suits known to mankind at that price".
But the hype annoys me. You can market a Toyota as a well-engineered, reliable, good quality car that is better than similar cars at the same price (I wouldn't know, I drive an old Land Rover, but a Toyota may well be all that and probably is), but without claiming some false heritage from Enzo Ferrari or Ettore Bugatti.
It's the same basic pitch as a lot of cut-price MTM travelling salesman/mail order "bespoke" suits. Look - working cuff butttons. Please ignore the questionable cloth and dodgy fit. We can do the button holes in red or yelllow thread if you like. Cool, eh? How about five cuff buttons? No, it's supposed to fit like that, silly you. How about six cuff buttons?
If they work for you, buy the clothes. Just don't buy the PR guff (which applies also though perhaps to a slightly lesser extent to some very famous bespoke tailors).

Hello Geezer,

OP is clearly not going to spend much on the suit, why being so mean?

Maybe OP is like me where he has too many bespoke items and trying to get some beaters?
 
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Ping Pong

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If I really got to put my finger between 1 and 2, at least I would say TM Lewin had a more form fit in most of the line than M&S, it is really M&S fully canvassed that is well executed and some thoughts on the fit.
Is M&S fully canvassed suits available on their site? Could you kindly provide the link?
 

iroh

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Hello Geezer,
OP is clearly not going to spend much on the suit, why being so mean?
Maybe OP is like me where he has too many bespoke items and trying to get some beaters?

you cannot afford bespoke if you are not rich enough to treat your bespoke items as if they were beaters.
 

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