Advice: First MTM Suit

[Mr October]

I am working my first summer at a law firm in NYC and just got my first paycheck. I am planning on spending it on a new suit tomorrow at Mr. Ned’s (who seems well liked on this forum). That said, is there anything I should know before going in to be fitted, e.g. types of “custom” options that you think every standard navy two-piece suit should have? Other advice for suiting novices is also appreciated.

 

[GBR]

I am working my first summer at a law firm in NYC and just got my first paycheck. I am planning on spending it on a new suit tomorrow at Mr. Ned’s (who seems well liked on this forum). That said, is there anything I should know before going in to be fitted, e.g. types of “custom” options that you think every standard navy two-piece suit should have? Other advice for suiting novices is also appreciated.

Well you did ask, can't recall for whom I created it but it is dated 2006! Nothing has changed.

Coat

Where I have put a * these you should really have, the others are choices. There are obviously many other styles and features you can have but of the classic everyday business style:

High arm holes

• Single/Double breast?
• If single, 3, 2 or 1 button?

• Roll of lapel - just where?

• Peak lapel or notch (SB)

• If double breasted, button one (4 x 1) or two (6 x2)?
• 4 working cuff buttons*
• Colour of lining - contrast or match. Satin or polyester?? satin lining, an ermazine (satin viscose) or a twill: Shot satin? Try LBD T3xx range and insist it is used. You can see the range on the LBD web site
  Straight or 'slant/hacking’ side pockets with or without flaps?
• Outside ticket pocket?
  • Ticket pocket inside either or both side pockets?
• Lapel button hole and flower stem 'cord' behind*
• Ensure that the right amount of shirt cuff shows*
• Centre vents or no vents

Inside pockets - how many and where placed?

• Suggest two in-breast pockets. Think where you want them - not where the cutter or tailor prefers to put them.
  • Zip, button or 'open' pockets
• Suggest 2 in-ticket pockets as well; becoming a lot more common and extremely useful for small things you collect in the day.
• YOU should tell him what size you want
  
• Pen pocket (s)
• If you keep a wallet in an inside pocket let your cutter know as an small allowance should be made to avoid bulges when coat fastened..

Your name embroidered inside?

• Trousers
• Braces?
• Belt (7 loops needed) or buckle side adjusters
• Extension band? Button or clip.
• If braces how high a rise (can vary by choice) Fishtail back or not? (Preferred with very high rise)
• French bearer
• Zip fly or button?
• Turn ups?
• Pleats? One or two forward or reverse? Essential with braces but a 'flat front' is perfectly acceptable with a belt.
• Width of bottoms
• Half lined legs essential
• On seam or slant side pockets? (Slant far better)
• Coin pocket inside either or both side pockets
• Fob pocket? - what style i.e. in waistband or outside and below with flap or button/hole?
• Back pockets? None is better as it allows a much ‘cleaner’ trouser and is strongly recommended. If you must have them for some reason ensure that they have button through fasten. Double jetted (some call this piped) is far, far neater than any other.

Waistcoat/vest

• -do you want a vest at all
• -single-breasted or double-breasted
• Lapels or no lapels
• if single, five or six buttons?
• Cloth or lining back. Lining is much, much better
• Two or four pockets - four better
• hole for watch chain?
  
  There are many views here about all these. Some people tend to have a fairly firm view from their experience and a more studied approach to elegance; Neither approach is wrong, that is what bespoke tailoring is about

• These are things - such as braces are a must: they have advantages on 'hang' of the trouser but not everyone wants to have braces visible when they remove their coat- that is for you although they are not terribly practical today and I would recommend the practical in this instance.
• 
  
• I would suggest that you take this list and a current suit and just draw up a list based on this lot that you want as it is easy to forget something.
• Some of the houses can be a little prescriptive and try to persuade first timers into the cutters thoughts, not what he wants.
• You decide and then stick to your guns. It is your suit and you should get the pleasure out of it

2006

 

[mintchox]

Go for a darker shade of blue so that you'll be able to use it in most formal situations especially given your type of work.

 

[classicalthunde]

Does Mr. Ned do bespoke in the $1K range? on his website he mentions a basted fitting and a third final fitting...

is there any SF consensus on how Mr. Ned stacks up against Kent Wang and some of the other touted NYC MTM options

 

[ter1413]

Personally, I would save some $ before blowing your first check on MTM. You can get 2 OTR suits tailored nicely for around that price.

You want to gradually build your working wardrobe. Don't buy a $1500 suit and $750 shoes when you can get 2 suits and 2 shoes for the same price(and maybe throw in 2 ties.)

When you start to make some more $, then opt for the higher priced items.

Note: If you already have a decent wardrobe, then by all means, go for it.

 

[GBR]

Someone else who asks a question but never acknowledges the answers.

 

[Mr October]

Well you did ask, can't recall for whom I created it but it is dated 2006! Nothing has changed.

Coat

Where I have put a * these you should really have, the others are choices. There are obviously many other styles and features you can have but of the classic everyday business style:

High arm holes

• Single/Double breast?
• If single, 3, 2 or 1 button?

• Roll of lapel - just where?

• Peak lapel or notch (SB)

• If double breasted, button one (4 x 1) or two (6 x2)?
• 4 working cuff buttons*
• Colour of lining - contrast or match. Satin or polyester?? satin lining, an ermazine (satin viscose) or a twill: Shot satin? Try LBD T3xx range and insist it is used. You can see the range on the LBD web site
  Straight or 'slant/hacking’ side pockets with or without flaps?
• Outside ticket pocket?
  • Ticket pocket inside either or both side pockets?
• Lapel button hole and flower stem 'cord' behind*
• Ensure that the right amount of shirt cuff shows*
• Centre vents or no vents

Inside pockets - how many and where placed?

• Suggest two in-breast pockets. Think where you want them - not where the cutter or tailor prefers to put them.
  • Zip, button or 'open' pockets
• Suggest 2 in-ticket pockets as well; becoming a lot more common and extremely useful for small things you collect in the day.
• YOU should tell him what size you want
  
• Pen pocket (s)
• If you keep a wallet in an inside pocket let your cutter know as an small allowance should be made to avoid bulges when coat fastened..

Your name embroidered inside?

• Trousers
• Braces?
• Belt (7 loops needed) or buckle side adjusters
• Extension band? Button or clip.
• If braces how high a rise (can vary by choice) Fishtail back or not? (Preferred with very high rise)
• French bearer
• Zip fly or button?
• Turn ups?
• Pleats? One or two forward or reverse? Essential with braces but a 'flat front' is perfectly acceptable with a belt.
• Width of bottoms
• Half lined legs essential
• On seam or slant side pockets? (Slant far better)
• Coin pocket inside either or both side pockets
• Fob pocket? - what style i.e. in waistband or outside and below with flap or button/hole?
• Back pockets? None is better as it allows a much ‘cleaner’ trouser and is strongly recommended. If you must have them for some reason ensure that they have button through fasten. Double jetted (some call this piped) is far, far neater than any other.

Waistcoat/vest

• -do you want a vest at all
• -single-breasted or double-breasted
• Lapels or no lapels
• if single, five or six buttons?
• Cloth or lining back. Lining is much, much better
• Two or four pockets - four better
• hole for watch chain?
  
  There are many views here about all these. Some people tend to have a fairly firm view from their experience and a more studied approach to elegance; Neither approach is wrong, that is what bespoke tailoring is about

• These are things - such as braces are a must: they have advantages on 'hang' of the trouser but not everyone wants to have braces visible when they remove their coat- that is for you although they are not terribly practical today and I would recommend the practical in this instance.
• 
  
• I would suggest that you take this list and a current suit and just draw up a list based on this lot that you want as it is easy to forget something.
• Some of the houses can be a little prescriptive and try to persuade first timers into the cutters thoughts, not what he wants.
• You decide and then stick to your guns. It is your suit and you should get the pleasure out of it

2006

I am working my first summer at a law firm in NYC and just got my first paycheck. I am planning on spending it on a new suit tomorrow at Mr. Ned’s (who seems well liked on this forum). That said, is there anything I should know before going in to be fitted, e.g. types of “custom” options that you think every standard navy two-piece suit should have? Other advice for suiting novices is also appreciated.

Sorry for the delay in responding - this was very helpful. Work got busy so I am going this afternoon, but I have made a list of options based on this. I’ll be sure to post an update with how the experience went. Thanks everyone!