adventures in bespoke: Chittleborough & Morgan

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by medtech_expat, Jun 10, 2013.

  1. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    New project: 3-piece, 2-button peak lapel suit in dark grey Lesser GB sharkskin. SB waistcoat with lapels.

    I had the pleasure of spending an hour with Joe Morgan & Michael Browne of C&M earlier today. I had spoken with Joe twice previously over the past few years and have always found him warm, passionate and personable. Unfortunately, until recently consistent fittings in London weren't quite possible with my schedule; the increased frequency has given me the perfect excuse to explore the Nutter influence.

    From the block coat, I could most definitely feel the structure and padding in the chest and shoulders. This was not at all constricting nor uncomfortable, but I was a bit surprised that I immediately felt my carriage respond with a bit more of an erect bearing. According to Joe, this is not unusual and the construction of the garments in fact encourages this. The lapels are beautifully-shaped and with a generous belly; I will be going with a more moderate width than the examples I saw today (ranging from 4 1/8 to 4 5/8 inches). The C&M expression does appear to be a bit stylized compared to other houses on the Row - check out the DB peak lapel waistcoat on Joe and the generous waistband and flapped coin pocket on Michael's trousers. I appreciate these expressions of personality, and when everything comes together I find the aggregate quite harmonious, with the individual details not overpowering.

    Many of you will have seen Michael's pictures in the past few issues of The Rake. We discussed his interest in style and clothing, and how this interest evolved into his entry into the trade. As with Joe, Michael's passion is evident and the expression of his own style quite unique.

    I look forward to working with these gentlemen over the months ahead. Basted fitting in July.


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  2. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  3. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    They'll be relatively high, by not has high as Michael's. That being said, I gave Joe fairly wide latitude to realize his vision for the first fitting, he stressed several times hat the flourishes can and will be moderated according to my feedback. Am looking forward to the first fitting.
     
  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Nice - I have always been curious about C&M, and look forward to learning more.
     
  5. VinnyMac

    VinnyMac Senior member

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    I'm curious to see the results too, but don't go with those pants. Even MC Hammer moved on.
     
  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    High rise pants with suspenders is the way to go. The best way to make the pants break consistent.
     
  7. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    And avoid seeing your shirt under the jacket. And, it's just plain more comfortable. I love my suit trousers with a higher rise.
     
  8. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    Discovered this thread via google and was hoping to find a completed project. Very keen to see how you get on; I dropped by yesterday and am seriously considering C&M for my next commission.
     
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    YES!
     
  10. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Had my basted fitting yesterday. It was at once the most relaxed, most comprehensive and yet most advanced first basted I've ever had.

    Firstly, I should point out that both Joe and Michael were with me for the entire 90 minute duration. While there were multiple measurements and notes taken and the garments are clearly marked up, there was an equal emphasis for Joe and Michael to feel how the garments rest on my body and how they look while walking & sitting. I was pleasantly surprised at how well everything looked and fit at this stage for a first commission.

    Joe and Michael are clearly very passionate about their craft, and with style and elegance overall. The experience so far has been very social, more in line with my Mina fittings as opposed to my first commission next door at RA - which while very pleasant, I would describe as more brisk, reserved, and with an underlying focus on production efficiency. Joe, on the other hand, continually stresses that we will go through as many fittings and stylistic tweeks as required for I (and they) to be completely satisfied with the finished garment.

    This first basted reaffirmed my impression that something special is happening at C&M. To be continued...


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  11. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Looks great - the trousers in particular.
     
  12. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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  13. Kuro

    Kuro Senior member

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    pants look great
     
  14. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    Trousers look good indeed, waistcoat looks stellar!

    What's the width of the lapel you're planning to have?
     
  15. Wallcloud

    Wallcloud Senior member

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    Just a great look. Excited for finished product.
     

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