Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dusty, Jun 21, 2005.
What is involved, and what should I expect to pay?
If you just need to take a inch or two, should be fairly simple (done it one with Canali, to my liking). I am not sure about the cost.
I think every RTW jacket I've ever purchased has required some narrowing. I can't really say what this would cost alone because I usually get my sleeves shortened with functional buttonholes and some collar work done.
Either the side seams are sliced open and resewn, or the center back seam is, or all three. It's a very easy alteration to do, and should not cost much. The only difficulty is what it will do to the balance of the coat. But the tailor ought to be able to pin the coat to give you a good idea of how it should look.
You can also alter the front side seams.
This is harder, and more likely to throw off the balance. Plus, not all coats have them. Quite a few jackets are made with no side body pieces and a front dart instead.
Depending what you need done, the typicall term is side seams in, or front panel.
Side seams involves taking in material on both sides of the seam, front panel only is just taking in on the front.
It shouldnt cost you more than $20 to do either of the options.
What? I'm paying $35 a pop to get my jackets taken in -- usually by about 4 inches. Maybe I need to find a new alteration shop.
I'm not sure what is meant by "front panel" or how a coat's waist can be taken in this way.
Most coats are made one of two ways: either from four main pieces, or six. Â (I'm talking about the body only, nothing else.) Â The back is nearly always two pieces, joined by a long seam in the center. Â The outside edges are in the back. Â The fronts are either one piece for each side, reaching all the way around your side to reach the back pieces, or there is a seaparate side panel, maybe 8" wide, that runs at the bottom from the rear side seam (or vent) to the front. Â Coat's made like this typically look like the rear dart runs all the way to the bottom of the coat. Â Except it's not a dart; it's the seam of panel that runs from the armhole to the bottom.
Anyway, you can adust this seam to increase waist suppression, but it's harder to get right. Â Most tailors will use the center backseam or the rear side seams.
Manton is right.
I usually get my waists taken in by a couple of inches, and the tailor usually just takes in the center backseam. It costs about $20-$40 and is a very simple alteration.
Taking in the side seams is distinct from taking in the backseam in terms of its effect on the coat silhouette. Taking in the side seams is more effective for adding waist suppression, while taking in the backseam is more effective for ensuring that the coat shapes to the lower back properly. At least in my experience.
My tailor does the side seams, and if there is excess fabric in the lower back area, he'll do the backseam.
Separate names with a comma.