Absence of chest patch pocket in cashmere / linen unconstructed designer sport coats like Brunello Cucinelli and Ermenegildo Zegna?

[josepidal]

Certain designers (like Italian very high end labels Brunello Cucinelli and Ermenegildo Zegna) have been pushing the unstructured blazer or sport coat as a signature look. Even before the current work from home and smart casual trends, these were gaining popularity. I'm curious because I was having them made (with triple patch pockets) when I first joined this forum, years before that trend.

I noticed, though, that almost none of the designer offerings feature chest patch pockets, even if many have hip patch pockets, particularly those in lighter colored linen and cashmere.

Is there any reason for this? Is it to retain some pretense of formality, to argue that some formal detail on a jacket in a casual color and fabric and done unstructured can still make the jacket appropriate for business (particularly in tech circles)? Is the chest patch pocket simply out of flavor or unfamiliar to the target audience of these designer labels?

Also, is there a reason to push zero lining instead of quarter lining? Does zero lining and zero structure sound more appealing to the target audience, who might not be too worried about a garment's durability anyway? Should I be talking to my tailor about trying zero lining over quarter lining?

 

[josepidal]

I honestly thought people would have an opinion on this!

 

[Mercman]

Hmmm. I suppose the absence of the patch pocket is all part of an attempt to bridge the tailoring-knitwear gap but, for me, it's a bridge too far because somehow it seems to cheapen the look of the garment. Personally, I like the three patch pockets on casual tailoring.

I do like the casual/unstructured look, which suits by build, but generally prefer quarter lining to totally unlined.

 

[breakaway01]

Do you mean no chest pocket at all, or that they have a welted chest pocket and patch hip pockets?

 

[josepidal]

Welted chest pocket

 

[breakaway01]

I personally prefer welted chest with patch hip pockets but I recognize that this is just a styling preference. To me, a patch chest pocket draws more attention to itself as it is a little unusual, increases the asymmetry of the jacket, and is closer to eye level. I suspect, as you mention, that many shoppers prefer the more understated look of the welted pocket.

 

[josepidal]

I did appreciate seeing the 1940s inspired California sport coat ensembles in Season 2 of “Agent Carter” and the triple patch pockets there, randomly .

 

[Despos]

This is how I advise clients with styling an odd jacket or sport coat. If you plan to wear the jacket with a tie and use it for business and social events get a breast welt. When you are seated in a meeting or a dinner, no one sees the patch and the pocket and tie are cohesive. If you want the jacket to be totally on the casual side and will seldom if ever wear a tie with, a patch pocket is the way to go.

 

[josepidal]

Advice is the same even for an unstructured linen or light cashmere sport coat, which will look to be much further to the casual side anyway? Well articulated advice as always of course.

 

[rob]

For me, after having both patch pockets with a breast welt and with a breast patch pocket, I prefer the look of the breast welt. For the record a wear a tie with both, but for the most part use a casual tie with Three patch operation.
rob

 

[josepidal]

This Marvel character caught my attention.

 

[breakaway01]

those pockets are very square. Greatly prefer more rounded patch pockets.

 

[josepidal]

It's a 1940s themed show if that helps. The character moved to California from New York in Season 2 and more patch pockets showed up.