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About to order 10 jantzen shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johnnynorman3, Apr 27, 2004.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I'm planning on ordering about 10 Jantzen shirts later this week. 5 or so will be solids -- at least 3 white, and 2 different shades of blue -- but I want to supplement that with about 5 patterned shirts. Right now I'm thinking that a medium width stripe in a conservtive color is a good pattern for a law firm. But is it acceptable to brach out into conservative check patterns? Here are some of the patterns I'm considering. Please comment if you have time. I'm open to criticism, suggestions. Keep in mind that I'm putting up those I'm considering -- I can't order all of them. Checker pattern Checker pattern 2 Checkers 3 checkers 4 Checkers 5 Stripe Stripe 2Stripe 3 Stripe 4 Stripe 5 Stripe 6 PinPoint Oxford -- can this fabric pair with a suit? Thanks for any help. Sorry to be a pain in the ass -- but isn't that what this board is all about?
     
  2. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    Johnynorman3, From your list, my favourite would be: [​IMG] My humble opinion: Patterned conservative shirts should be fine pinstripes or chalkstripes in traditional colors, such as this one http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe302.htm Bolder stripes can be had in the traditional university stripe/candy stripe designs, again, in traditional colors. Be wary about stripes that are not as thin as pinstripes or chalkstripes but are not broad enough to look like university/candy stripes. In my opinion, they look bad and cheap, as though the factory tried to manufacture cloth with fine stripes but failed because of inferior equipment. For instance, I would stay away from: [​IMG] Fine, traditional-color, checks are okay but would probably be pushing the limit. Broad checks are out. These are shirts I have ordered: http://www.jantzentailor.com/dobbydesign123.htm - beautiful fabric, nice blue http://www.jantzentailor.com/dobbydesign97.htm - a bit too shiny for my taste but good quality http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe120.htm - looks very much like a zegna shirt in their current collection, fabric out of stock http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe145.htm - nice color, fabric is average http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe241.htm - very ugly, looks like something bought from the Gap http://www.jantzentailor.com/checkers273.htm - one of my favorites http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe302.htm - has a very tailored look, one of my favorites http://www.jantzentailor.com/stripe88.htm - nice weekend shirt http://www.jantzentailor.com/dobbydesign95.htm - very sophisiticated, looks like something hermes would carry http://www.jantzentailor.com/plaincotton.htm #21 - not received yet http://www.jantzentailor.com/checkers484.htm - not received yet
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Gregory,

    The blue stripe is probably the shirt I'm 100 percent on. I'm definitely going to order that. I really like several of the choices you mentioned, but most are a bit too flashy for the place I'm going to be working.

    Also, you have to let me know about the Blue Sea Island shirt. I'm going to order that one too, I think, but I'm wondering the hue of blue that it is. There are a couple of blues I like better on Jantzen, but it's hard to pass up the Sea Island.

    I noticed you put several twill cottons on your list -- do you find that the twills are suitable for pairing with suits?
     
  4. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    I remember someone on this forum mentioned that one of his favorite shirts was a Jantzen one in that sea island blue. In fact, what made me order the shirt was the shade of the blue more than the quality of the fabric. [​IMG] About whether twills are suitable for pairing with suits, I assume so, but must defer to someone else more knowledgeable than me. Yup, not all my shirts are for work wear. But how about Stripe 145, Stripe 302 and Dobby95? I hope you are satisfied with the collar style of your last Jantzen shirt. The collar is extremely important. Be precise about the length of the collar points as they might vary it from order to order if you do not specify it. Also, I highly recommend soft interlining over medium interlining over hard interlining. I have shirts from Jantzen with these various interlinings and vastly prefer those with soft/medium interlinings.
     
  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I have chosen the medium collar, but why do you prefer the softer? Does it hold up better? Does it stand up well with a tie? I have chosen both the regular spread and the semi-spread. I like the latter better, though I'm going t start going with the 2.75 inch length. I got the 3 inch points last time and think maybe it just isn't perfect on me. I do like a few of your shirts for a conservative workplace -- namely, the ones you mentioned. I love the pink Hermes like twill, though that might be iffy in my workplace. [​IMG] I found it informative your view on stripes -- I had originally been wanting to stay away from the fine pinstripes. Struck me as to Gordon Gecko, when in fact I'm a young'n. So, I thought the bolder stripes were more my age (more Brooks Bros.).
     
  6. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    I've never worn my soft-collared shirts with ties, so I can't tell you. The hard collared shirts feel cheap and factory made. Soft collars make the shirts look and feel handmade, and I like how the fabrics so subtly puff at the thread stiches. The soft collars look noticably better; the shirts with soft collars look noticably better made. Soft or medium interlining should be fine.
    Keep it for your casual wear. Have it made with a wide spread collar and soft interlining. No one can tell that it doesn't cost at least $250.
    Fine pinstripes are the classiest things. Broader stripes--as long as they looks as though they are meant to be broad--are okay, but they are not as refined as pinstripes. Do not choose those that are "in-between" in thickness for the reason I explained above. Choose your stripes carefully. [​IMG]
     
  7. vero_group

    vero_group Senior member

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    I'm considering ordering 3 Jantzen shirts to give ol' Ricky Ho a try. I have some questions for you guys:

    1. Are all of Jantzen's shirts around $40 each or do they go up in price based on certain options you select? What are the price drivers?

    2. I have a Trillion shirt that I love the way it is made and it fits me perfectly in my opinion. Can I simply send the shirt to Ricky and ask him to copy it verbatim, but with different fabrics/cloth styles?

    Thanks.
     
  8. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    Dear vero_group:

    Yes, unless you ask for something really fancy like double-collars (one layered on top of another), etc. Basically, if you choose anything on the order form, it would be regarded as standard. If you specify something special in the remarks section, like fancy double-collars or perhaps different fabric for inner collar and inner cuffs, there may be added costs.


    I've never done this but the answer is yes. The website mentioned that customers should feel free to send in their shirts in lieu of measurements.

    I personally would not order more than one shirt if I were giving him measurements. However, I would be comfortable ordering multiple shirts if I were to send him a shirt for duplication, especially if you want him to duplicate the collar of your shirt as well.

    Good luck.
     
  9. Valmont

    Valmont Senior member

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    Yeah for sure, I sent in a Baldessarini shirt that fits me perfectly and asked him to copy it. It was beyond me to get all the measurements right...
     
  10. water

    water Senior member

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    The Jantzen ordering process takes a couple of tries to get it just right. I believe Ricky even recommends ordering one shirt first to ensure the fit is right.

    Has anyone ordered a double buttoned collar? How would you describe such a request in the remarks section? I hate button-down collars and am kind of afraid that Ricky might confuse what I am requesting.
     
  11. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    Dear water:

    ( I'm speaking to water? :) )

    I have five shirts from Jantzen with two buttons on the collar underband; they are a subtle but nice touch. In the remarks section, just tell him "Please use TWO buttons on the underband of the regular spread (substitute accordingly) collar".

    Why do you hate button-down collars?
     
  12. rayk

    rayk Senior member

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    Not only does Ricky suggest that the first order be for one test shirt, he insists on it. For my first order I took extensive measurements from a shirt that I had bespoke from Geneva in NYC. I felt completely comfortable with my measurements and selected ten fabrics for Ricky to make. About two weeks after submitting my order, I received an email from Jantzen stating that they would make the first shirt on my list and ship it to me for evaluation before making the balance of my order.

    As it turned out, that was a very good move on Ricky's part, as I didn't take a few things into consideration, such as shrinkage: my Geneva shirt was a couple of years old and had been laundered numerous times. I have since placed orders for ten to 15 shirts at a time and have been totally pleased with the results.
     
  13. water

    water Senior member

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    Gregory: I guess it is really just a matter of personal taste. Button-down collars look very unsophisticated to me. They always bring to mind things like Gap ads and the "middle-management in khakis" type (if there is such a thing anywhere other than in my mind). Still, some people swear by button-down collars and more power to them. [​IMG] Thanks for the tip on ordering the double-button collar. I will be ordering a couple of shirts later this week and will give it a try.
     
  14. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Can anyone tell me whether the soft Jantzen collars are superior to the "medium" collars? Gregory sounded like he prefers the soft collar.

    Also, if you get the monogramming inside the yoke, does the monogram stitching show through the outside of the shirt?
     
  15. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I personally didn't care for the soft collar too much when I wore a tie around it.

    Regular would be fine. Hard is a little too stiff, but it works for certain occasions (when you really want that "starched collar" look.)
     
  16. fareau

    fareau Senior member

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    I hope not. I have ordered one shirt with a monogram inside the yolk and was anticipating ordering several more (pending satisfaction with the first).

    My girlfriend thinks my interest in clothing is excessive; my ordering MTM shirts from Hong Kong just about sent her head spinning.
     
  17. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    No, of course it wouldn't show through in the back of the shirt. Â [​IMG] She thinks it is excessive? She should be impressed. Say something like "I gave up buying shirts from Bergdorf. In the end, no one makes my shirts as well as good old Ricky does." It is not necessary to disclose how much you pay for them. If she asks, just give a soft sigh, and change the topic of conversation.
     
  18. VMan

    VMan Senior member

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    One meeeeellion dollars.
     
  19. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    In my experience, women are much less label conscious and much more willing to try "unknown" labels than are men. And they are nearly always looking for a bargain (just don't claim you got a bargain when you get her a gift.) She'd probably be more impressed when she hears that your MTM shirts are under $50 a shot. Any woman who thinks less of you because you do not pay Bergdorf prices is a money hungry b*tch with no classa and should be kicked to the curb as quickly as possible.
     
  20. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    well said.
     

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