Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SeamasterLux, May 13, 2013.
That looks good Paul - keen to see the finished product!
I have viewed your tumblr many times and have always admired your Ripense tailoring. Interesting that you say the spalla shoulder is not right for you...what "type" of shoulder is Ripense using on your jackets? They look great! I ask because I am a slim 36r and I think that is a very flattering style.
It depends, I do either a spalla con rolino or a spalla camicia but with a twist so it doesn't really fall straight at the shoulder seam but buffs up in a wrinkled way.
From the photos of the glen plaid suit I do not detect any hint of "spalla"
Here are some examples:
Very nice and I love that three piece PoW check suit on page 1
Spalla is just "shoulder". The glen plaid suit has a spalla con rollino.
If you meant the spalla camicia, definitely it's not on the glen plaid suit.
Andrea is a very nice guy and everything I have seen from him so far is good-looking too. He also steers clients away from horrible design decisions which is especially valuable in cities like Moscow...
I'm curious how they managed 4 fittings in 5 days without compromising quality. Did you bring that up? What did they say? Or is cutting a suit so much less complicated than I thought?
I'm not in the market for new bespoke suits, but I will be in Rome in three weeks for three weeks (temptation, temptation.)
Simply by having 3 cutters including 2 that split the work on Patrik's suit. However, the percentage of completion of the suit was actually 60% and all seams needed to be finished.
Everything is still handmade in that suit
Unfortunately for you, Ripense is closed for the whole month of August like most of the others shops. So first week of September, do rush if you want it.
Thanks for the clarification.
The summer closure may be unfortunate for me, but quite fortunate for my wallet. I'll be leaving Rome on Sep. 1.
On the first day of my trip I discussed about the suit, chose the fabric and had my measurements taken. After that I revisited the shop 4 times, always at 5pm. In the first fitting, the suit was deliberately cut too big and had only one sleeve attached, in the second fitting the suit was cut to my form, in the third fitting the lapels were complete and the lining was partially done and in the last fitting the other shoulder was finished with rollino and the other sleeve was attached. Here's a picture of the suit in its last fitting-state hanging on the shelf.
Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
I have a question, though, because I was thinking of using Ripense, too: how flexible do you think are they when cutting the pants? I'd request a rather high waist. Would they do that?
The pants of my suit are a bit higher than he'd normally make. They sit like my jeans. I think he's open for ideas but will turn down, or at least question the strangest ones.
To be honest, it's bespoke so you can have whatever you want. Andrea might advise you what he thinks is best for you but you decide in the end what you want.
I went for very high rise this time and it's looking good.
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