1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

A visit to Sartoria Ripense, Roma-based bespoke tailoring house

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SeamasterLux, May 13, 2013.

  1. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

    Messages:
    574
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Location:
    Luxembourg
    Dear fellow SFers,

    While I’m enjoying a super breakfast with perfect view from the Waldorf Cavalieri, I thought it might be worth spending some time presenting my tailor. I very much appreciated reading the thread on NSM and Liverano and thought I might as well give it a shot. I’m not a born writer so you will excuse the lack of style.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    My official tailoring house, which means the one I’m using for most of my orders, is Sartoria Ripense owned by the very Roman Andrea Luparelli.

    I first stepped in his shop approximately three years ago, a few hours before my departure from the city after noting I had forgotten visiting it while it was mentioned in the Louis Vuitton Rome City Guide.
    The first impression I got was just like a kid entering a toy store before Christmas : WOW. They had it all : suit and shirt fabric swatches, suits being made and waiting for a lucky client to try them on, jackets, windstoppers, raincoats, leather jackets, wood and horn umbrellas, crocodile shoes, cashmere loafers, striped socks, ties, do I have to continue ? Well, I guess you get the picture.
    For some of you, this might sound like « déjà vu » which could be explained by the fact that I had a small article on Parisian Gentleman at that time explaining my first visits there (http://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2010/08/10/pg-reader-feature-ripense-tailoring-house-in-roma/).

    Well now that I have a bit more of bespoke experience (Cifonelli, Camps de Luca, Gieves and Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppard), I thought it was about time to give my impressions and to tell you a bit more about the place. Just to be straight from the beginning, this is a report and not a marketing article, I did not ask or get freebies for this.

    The tailoring shop is situated in Rome, a few steps from the Piazza del Popolo which makes it very convenient to visit but also easily missed since it’s on the Via di Ripetta which isn’t exactly the shopping street.

    The man :
    Andrea Luparelli. You might have seen him on various occasions (e.g. Tumblr, Pitti) but he does not advertise much to say the least. His grandfather was a tailor as well, hence his great passion for the sartorial world.


    [​IMG][​IMG]



    The Shop:
    38 via di Ripetta


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    My orders:
    I have made about ten suits there, three jackets, one camel hair coat, shirts, ties (bespoke) and shoes at the time when Andrea was working with Gian Luca Bocache who’s now on his own.
    Now looking back, the first suits I had made were very nice but not always flattering. See, I happen to be quite slim so in order not to look like a Slimane model (god forbid + I’m too small anyway), we had to get creative. I love the camicia shoulder but the truth is it’s just not the right style for me. I still love the suits I have with that feature as they’re very well made.
    Some pictures to illustrate for these are worth a thousand words.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I’m especially excited about my last order : a raw silk single breasted peak lapel navy blazer. Andrea had one double breasted three years ago like this and I thought at the time : « what an odd fabric ». And for three years, I dreamed about that suit for so many nights. When I asked a year and a half ago because I couldn’t bear it anymore, the judgement came : « sorry Paul, I don’t have that fabric anymore, it’s quite rare for me to have it ». Needless to say, I was crying inside. But last month when I came back to Rome with my girlfriend, I saw a roll of silk on the table at the shop and asked Andrea : « is this… ? »
    • Yes, raw silk
    • I ordered immediately my jacket and one month later I’m back for the fitting as well as a wedding.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Value for money :
    Well, at some point, it also comes down to that touchy subject, right ?
    Let’s be honest, I love Camps de Luca in Paris but at 6500 euros a suit, it’s not like I can order 10.
    Most of my suits cost me 2500-2800 euros and Andrea travelled quite often to meet me in Paris reducing greatly the travel cost needs for me (though I don’t mind travelling to Rome). The handwork quality is breathtaking as every single stitch is handmade (far from Savile Row finishing work that lacks details and quality to say the least…). The milanese/asola lucida/lapel button hole is perfect but once again, the pictures are better than any explanation.
    It’s really worth trying this tailor as he won’t let you down and represents, according to me, the best value for money I’ve seen on the bespoke market. Of course this is arguable and I don’t want to enter in a war against the NSM clients for instance but that’s my opinion.

    Last noteworthy comment, Andrea does travel to several cities in Europe, so ask him where you could meet him.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
    15 people like this.
  2. Jamesgatz

    Jamesgatz Senior member

    Messages:
    1,434
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2010
    That was a very nice write up.
     
  3. minervau

    minervau Senior member

    Messages:
    284
    Joined:
    May 6, 2010
    The Prince of Wales looks absolutely spectacular.
     
  4. UnnamedPlayer

    UnnamedPlayer Senior member

    Messages:
    763
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2012
    Raw Silk is a very common fabric for women's suiting.
     
  5. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

    Messages:
    2,510
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2007
  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    A great review - thanks! What is the fabric in the second pic (the grey with brown box checks)?
     
  7. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,994
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    Not only the tailoring, but your look, shape, attitude, all are prefect.

    Thanks for sharing.
     
  8. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

    Messages:
    574
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Location:
    Luxembourg
    Thanks for the support!
    If I remember correctly, it's a 100% wool by Scabal with a bit of a rough touch. The overcheck is in fact dark olive green.
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
  10. steffenbp11

    steffenbp11 Senior member

    Messages:
    794
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2008
    I can only agree with the above posters. Great thread and spectacular clothes: Especially the DB. I will probably never wear one, but if I do, that one would be what I would aim for
     
  11. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,834
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008
    Great thread. Love the overall look especially #2 pic.
     
  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,574
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    That navy raw silk looks great.

    Also, SeamasterLux is maybe too polite to self-promote, but he has a nice blog. I'll let him post the URL if he wishes to share it.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  14. dirnelli

    dirnelli Senior member

    Messages:
    337
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    Location:
    dirnelli.tumblr.com (Paris, France)
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  15. Stylesin

    Stylesin New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2013
  16. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

    Messages:
    574
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2012
    Location:
    Luxembourg
    Before it goes down to the basement for a well deserved spring-summer rest, here's some pictures from one of my favorite brown prince of wales suit by Ripense


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    5 people like this.
  17. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
  18. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

    Messages:
    4,747
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2007
    I really need to win the lottery.
     
  19. johnvw

    johnvw Senior member

    Messages:
    1,505
    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2010
    

    +1. :fonz:
     
  20. etkl

    etkl Senior member

    Messages:
    220
    Joined:
    May 1, 2011
    Does Ripense work on cloth provided by the customer and, if so, what is the cost of labor only for a two-piece suit?
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by