A visit to PN\P Firenze

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Apr 13, 2014.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    PN\P is not easy to find the first time. @Synthese and I gave the address to a cab driver we found idling outside of the Pitti Fortezza, but he was only able to take us far enough to gesture down a pedestrian street and explain that we didn't have far to walk. We passed by a woman selling soup out of a window and a small shop selling religious trinkets before deciding that we must have gone the wrong way, since the rest of the alley looked deserted. We were wrong; PN\P is in fact at the end of this quiet side street. It only took a little bit more wandering for us to figure this out. The shop is there once you believe it exists.

    The first thing I noticed when I walked into PN\P was the smell. Eyes closed, I felt right back in the middle of a baseball diamond, my face buried in my mitt. It's an inviting smell that tells you the store owners know the essence of what they're selling, and don't intend to hide it for someone who would rather their clothing stores smell like fabric softener or Biarritz. Just like you shouldn't trust a farmer's market stand that sells unblemished tomatoes, you shouldn't trust a leather goods store that doesn't smell like a horse's ass.

    The smell, however, was the only thing about the clothes that was familiar to me. In every other respect they were alien. Seams executed in ways I hadn't seen before, silhouettes I didn't recognize, textures that confounded me. But I felt more intrigued than shunned by these strange objects.

    Marco, the store owner, led me through the leather jackets. He handled each one as if it were his own child, cooing and praising its every shiver. Most of the jackets are not delicate pieces such as you might find at Hermes or Seraphin. These things are made of heavy, thick leather. Not a blanket, but a suit of armor. I wanted to try them on.

    My favorite was a M.A+ jacket of midnight blue horse leather, its terrain a map of rivulets, with long zippered sleeves and a high neck. I assumed the scene I set in motion when I asked Marco if he had my size would be a farce. It began that way. Here I was, dutifully wearing my navy suit and silk tie as Styleforum's Classic Menswear correspondent. I took off my suit jacket as Marco went to fetch the M.A+ biker jacket, revealing suspenders, high-waisted pleated pants, and a vain, desperate hope that the largest stocked size would fit me.

    The laugh track playing in my head crescendoed as Marco tried to squeeze the jacket's zipper together. "It will be easier when you're not wearing a tie and dress shirt," he tells me. As I contemplate the thickness of a tie and dress shirt, and whether I should be encouraged or terrified at the suggestion that this was the difference between the jacket fitting or not, the zipper latches, and Marco draws it up my torso. I briefly experience the apprehension of the initial ascent on a theme park drop tower ride. Marco seems satisfied. I expect Jasper to start laughing any moment now.

    Instead, he takes a step back and his eyebrows lift. "Actually that looks really good...," he tells me. Whatever, Jasper. I go to the mirror to see exactly how ridiculous I look, on a scale of Milli Vanilli to Steampunk.

    I get to the mirror and...actually...that looks really good. It's not a way I've ever looked before. I'm a spaceship pilot from the future. I have an exoskeleton. I'm a knight. I am Batman.

    Maybe I'll lose the neckwear next time, though. Marco keeps giving me a hard time for wearing a suit and tie. "I feel so constricted in a suit and tie," he says. "I like comfortable, easy clothes," I use all the range of motion available to me while encased in the jacket to nod in understanding. Maybe Marco, like me, just needs the excuse of practicality to forgive himself the indulgence of wearing the clothes he finds beautiful.

    I came to PN/P having only heard of "goth ninja" as a punchline. I left with an appreciation for the thought Marco and the designers he carries put into their pieces, some satisfaction in having seen some of the character behind a caricature, and most importantly, a new leather jacket.


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    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  2. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    What did you think of the footwear?
     
  3. indesertum

    indesertum Senior member

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    You bought the MA+ jacket? Looks really good on you. Even with the shirt and tie
     
  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Footwear was interesting - most of it was distressed, and/or made to look good as it gets more distressed, both in the sense that the leather would already have some roughness to it, and that the shoe is made in a shape that looks worn in already. Turned up toes, etc.. The boots that Marco is wearing in the picture of him seem pretty typical of the kinds of shoes they have. It's footwear for apocalyptic warriors and hobos. Construction quality is quite good though - I think they were mostly goodyear welted, maybe some Blake rapid.


    Thanks meng, I did indeed get it. I'll try to post some pics soon of me wearing it with a more typical outfit...I usually wear it with tshirt, jeans, black zip-up boots.
     
  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    To appreciate this style of clothing, you have to consider traditional tailoring as a jumping off point, rather than a destination. It's essentially an alternate dimension.
     
  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I think that biker jacket with shirt and tie is a good MC X SWD look. I have the Stutterheim cream raincoat that goes well with coat and tie, though it is not the originally intended style of wear.
     
  7. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    I see it more as "elegant Yakuza assassin."
     
  8. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This


    All this shit is connected in someway. Many of us just haven't figured it out yet
     
  9. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    I love the intrigue of the narrative...

    Very well told.

    What does the jacket - that you chose - retail for?
     
  10. coolron

    coolron Senior member

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    Great writeup and that jacket looks badass on you.
     
  11. cyc wid it

    cyc wid it Senior member

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    Yeah I've always wondered what CM folks think of SW&D boots that cost at least as much as a pair of Corthays whether distressed or not.

    IIRC lightweight calf version of that MA+ runs around $3k.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  12. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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  13. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    RE: MA+ - recently tried on an ma+ biker jacket and honestly WOW... it looked really cool, i want one (see below)

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    BTW it was super hard to zip up the jacket for me as well and i am fairly slim.

    RE: PN/P

    The store was like a candy shop for me. I came in dressed like a tourist, shorts, nikes, random shirt. Marco approached me and asked if i knew any of the designers, to which i replied yes. He was relieved because so many tourists come into his store, look at the clothing/prices and react WTF.
     
  14. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    'sup Robb Stark

    sick leather!
     
  15. thegreatgatsby

    thegreatgatsby Senior member

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    I'm trying to follow this thread - but it's a bit confusing to make heads or tails of this:

    Does the jacket being described
    cost $3,000 USD - and it doesn't even comfortably fit the gentlemen who bought it, or am I misreading things?

    As I've gotten older - one of the key delights I've found is in clothing that fits right.

    I would actually like to be able to zip my leather jackets, button my coats, and have my shirt tails stay tucked in. Is it so remarkable to want to wear clothes that look great, but also allow for the freedom of movement? My confusion is that it appears at least 2 SF members have bought this coat - and both complained about the fit.

    It's also interesting how the shop owner likes to be comfortable (and doesn't wear suits), yet he's selling jackets so slim-fitting that Hedi Slimane couldn't get David Bowie inside of one.

    One might look badass in one of these jackets - but 5 pounds (and 3K) later...
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014

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