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A view on Neapolitan shirtmakers and hand finishes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marcodalondra, Jan 13, 2012.

  1. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I am not 100 sure about what you mean about numbs, but if you mean smallar thread pick, rather then difficult these are time consuming (in relative terms as these women can hand sew faster the i can type). The straightness and frequency of the hand pick shows the skills. The ticker thread some time used on the front shoulder/yoke, that is just a stylistic choice. Again, the number of hand steps, adding the side seams and hems, should had around 20-30 euro more to the cost of a shirt...

    Again most shirtmakers may use the same group of home seamstress for hand sewing, so the quality is relative. Does Anna Matuozzo do everything herself? I doubt it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  2. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Don't know the exact number. Somewhere between 5 and 10, I think.


    5-6 years per shirt would be nice. I don't mind some minor fraying. The problem is that the Riva cotton has totally worn through. Where the collar folds, there is a large, gaping hole straight through to the interlining. But more important is the cost. Geneva charges $250-80 a shirt, for any Alumo fabric of your choice. Hard to beat that.

    My evening shirt is the first shirt I've had made with Alumo. It's very, very nice. Don't miss the Riva at all.


    He is self-aware of his showmanship and how it contrasts to the traditional way of doing things. That's very encouraging to me.


    We do Duane Reade in NYC.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Of course not. She probably hasn't sewn anything herself in a long time. Her contribution is fitting and oversight.
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, that is actually really reasonable. I didn't know that Geneva was that low. Hmm.
     


  5. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    That is why most people ask for spare set of cuffs and collar. It was always included in the shirt price... Once I found a whole box full of cuffs and collar at my grandfather house.

    If those were not one off fabrics from Riva, standard fabric should still be available and A M should be able to replace them for you. You will be surprised...
     


  6. quar

    quar Senior member

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    I'd guess that the cost of replacing the collars and cuffs on an Riva AM shirt would approach that of an entirely new Alumo Geneva shirt.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2012


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I have extra cuff s and collars for most of my shirts. But sending them back to Italy is a costly pain.
     


  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Have you tried Cego's $150 OCBD? The cloth is inexpensive, thick, coarse and with lots of body (Carl mentioned that the cloth is from a mill in India). Note that it is not any where luxurious - I have to wear it with an under shirt. But for me it is a work horse during the cold months. Also, I wear ties with OCBDs. So YMMV.
     


  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Have you considered asking someone locally, like Geneva, to do it for you?
     


  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Buy more shirts. Fewer washings. No need to "euthanize" shirts before you are resigned to this eventuality.
    That's what I do. I have T&A, and other shirts that are over 15 years old which look new(ish).
     


  11. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    It should only be a nominal fee, my shirtmaker would do it for around 20 euro (spare parts would have been produced with the shirt).
     


  12. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    USPS priority mail international with two shirts in envelope should cost you around $25....
     


  13. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    thank you for the entertainment. priceless.
     


  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I've had shirts disappear that way. I'd have to send them with tracking and insurance. 20+ shirts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2012


  15. ctp120

    ctp120 Senior member

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    Matt,

    Somewhat off-topic, but have you taken delivery of your large-scale herringbone overcoat from the blog?
     


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