A Tour of Paul Cicchini Custom Clothier--bespoke in Michigan (w/ pics)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tlmusic, Aug 23, 2008.

  1. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Styleforum members may not be aware that there is a world-class bespoke operation in Birmingham, Michigan. I am a customer at Paul Cicchini Custom Clothier, and a couple days ago, the shop graciously allowed me to take some photographs. This is a rare behind the scenes look at bespoke suit making. The shop is named for Paul Cicchini, who is a noted tailor and highly honored member (and former President) of the CTDA. Although I have seen posts here speculating to the contrary, Mr. Cicchini is still quite active at the shop. I just recently saw him sewing away at patch pockets on an odd jacket. Mr. Cicchini is originally from Vasto, Italy and is in his eighties. The main area of the store is dedicated to luxury ready-to-wear. However, this post will concentrate on the tailoring operation. Here is the cloth room--the selection and quality of cloth compares favorably with what I have seen in New York. In addition to the full-on bespoke, they offer a CMT option, which results in a product somewhere between MTM and bespoke. I have couple suits from them made this way. [​IMG] Now, on to the workroom, where garments are made in-house completely by hand. This picture was taken after hours. During the day this room is bustling with people making garments. Cicchini has 10-15 tailors on staff. These are not mere alterations tailors--most come from Italy, and many are trained pattern makers as well as sewers. [​IMG] Paper patterns for the "bench grade" suits. [​IMG] Suit in progress: [​IMG] Two exquisite chalkstripe jackets--One is blue and the other brown. [​IMG] Detail of Cicchini brown chalkstripe jacket lying on the work table. This suit was really impressive to see in person. [​IMG]
     


  2. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I was with you until we got to the remarkably crafted white crepe.
     


  3. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Well, the white jacket is not something I would personally order. The guys at the shop made me examine it closely, and I had to admit it was as well constructed as anything I've seen, with regard to lines, padding, shoulders, etc. I just wanted to show the range of items made by the shop.

    Some of their most devoted (and wealthy) customers are looking for one-of-a-kind conversation pieces like this, and Cicchini is known for satisfying their requests.
     


  4. GBR

    GBR Senior member

    Messages:
    7,775
    Likes Received:
    548
    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Presumably "Benchgrade" is MTM - one set of patterns with no customer name is not bespoke.
     


  5. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Actually "Bench Grade" is full bespoke at Cicchini. Sorry if the post was unclear. Those patterns that are pictured have individual customer names on them.
     


  6. sfo423

    sfo423 Senior member

    Messages:
    548
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2007
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Possibly the pinstripes are for Kwame Kilpatrick? Oops, maybe not; he seems to prefer SB with no less than five buttons. Gangster style. [​IMG]
     


  7. Skyler

    Skyler Senior member

    Messages:
    158
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    great post, thanks
     


  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

    Messages:
    6,452
    Likes Received:
    306
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2007
    Location:
    New York
    Nicve post - thanks
     


  9. dirk diggler

    dirk diggler Senior member

    Messages:
    1,635
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    In the Lou
    what kind of pricing for their bespoke, MTM and RTW?
     


  10. tlmusic

    tlmusic Senior member

    Messages:
    931
    Likes Received:
    3
    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    what kind of pricing for their bespoke, MTM and RTW?

    I am not certain, but I believe the MTM/custom ranges from about $1800-2500.

    Bespoke I think starts about $4000. They have shown me several suits they were making that were $20,000+. Those suits were of vicuna and other ultra-premium fabrics.
     


  11. clarinetplayer

    clarinetplayer Senior member

    Messages:
    4,609
    Likes Received:
    7,624
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Location:
    Michigan
    Just today, I emptied my closet and took five suits to Cicchini's for alterations. (A year of running nearly every day and being faithful to the gym has resulted in a 4 inch drop in my waist. Nothing fits--a nice problem.) The suits included 2 Cicchini MTMs, 2 Hickey Freeman MTMs, and an Oxxford MTM. The tailor who will be literally reconstructing the suits is "Nino"--a major talent and a real artisan. Any SF member visiting South East Michigan ought to make a visit to this fantastic store. As the pictures in the original post show, it is a fascinating place.
     


  12. brax

    brax Senior member

    Messages:
    664
    Likes Received:
    271
    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2008
    Do they do shirt alterations? My parents live in GPS and I will be visiting them in a month. I bought a few pairs of Kiton and Charvet that need moderate slimming.
     


  13. jhcam8

    jhcam8 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,700
    Likes Received:
    1,091
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2008
    Location:
    SE MI
    I am not certain, but I believe the MTM/custom ranges from about $1800-2500.

    Bespoke I think starts about $4000. They have shown me several suits they were making that were $20,000+. Those suits were of vicuna and other ultra-premium fabrics.


    The music business must be good! [​IMG]
     


  14. detroiter

    detroiter Senior member

    Messages:
    193
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2009
    Location:
    Detroit, where folks rock Mauri
    I know this is old, but I just found it, I am heading here today actually, never been here.
     


  15. mink31

    mink31 Senior member

    Messages:
    738
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2005
    I live near this place and would like to check it out. Does anyone who's been there think they'd be alright with me using them for alterations only?
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by