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A Tommy Nutter Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Nov 20, 2009.

  1. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    I like to collect this sort of clothing for my personal consumption.

    Divine of John Waters fame was buried in a Tommy Nutter suit. He was apparently a big spender on bespoke tailored menswear.
     
  2. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    I appreciate what he was doing in terms of his time, and I love the pattens in the Ringo pic, but those lapels [​IMG]
     
  3. imatlas

    imatlas Senior member

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    Those roots are largely bereft of flowers right now. One of the things that I find interesting about the Reeves stuff is that I think that there is a bud of this in there somewhere. The whole question of how it is executed is a different matter, but I still like seeing evidence of it in things made today.
    - B


    I definitely saw the origins of the Reeves suit in some of these photos. Interesting to see how well that degree of exaggeration can turn out, when properly executed.
     
  4. Sleats

    Sleats Senior member

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    No mention as of yet of Chittleborough & Morgan "at nutters" still both very much in existence!
     
  5. dv3

    dv3 Senior member

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    I find the David Reeves comparison very striking. Here are two Reeves suits I found through google image; although, I believe both were originally posted on AAAC.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  6. George

    George Senior member

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    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    I find the David Reeves comparison very striking. Here are two Reeves suits I found through google image; although, I believe both were originally posted on AAAC.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]


    Those suits of Reeves you've posted have more of a Mod flavour to them than Nutter (nutty?) flavour. When I look at a some mod suits I sometimes see a an Italian or continental influence in there. With Nutter, the flavour is purely English.
     
  7. dv3

    dv3 Senior member

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    Those suits of Reeves you've posted have more of a Mod flavour to them than Nutter (nutty?) flavour. When I look at a some mod suits I sometimes see a an Italian or continental influence in there. With Nutter, the flavour is purely English.

    I'm curious to know the details of this statement--I have a lot to learn.
     
  8. barims

    barims Senior member

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    ^ Funniest thing - I had more or less the same thoughts he did, yet I won't be able to explain it as succinctly. Suffice to say, the modism in the Reeves cut is due to sharper Continental-style structuring (?)
     
  9. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    I am a little surprised that we don't hear about or see more of the post-Nutter Sexton. These forums seem to have plenty of A&S, Huntsman/Anderson, Poole customers, but almost no Sexton clients. Do people even consider him anymore when selecting an English tailor? With regards to an earlier point, I think Edwin Deboise spent as much time with Sexton as he did at A&S. Edwin has described Sexton as nothing short of a first-rate cutter and a very fun guy.
     
  10. Robertito

    Robertito Senior member

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    Another proof of God !
    Vox, you are a cunning proselytizer.


    Or perhaps a cunning linguist.
     
  11. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    I find the David Reeves comparison very striking. Here are two Reeves suits I found through google image; although, I believe both were originally posted on AAAC.

    While I see where you're coming from, I have to disagree. Whatever else you think of it, the Nutter suit is pure Savile Row. Look at those shoulders and chest. There is a sort of mod thing going on, but there are also distinct echos of the thirties and forties, even the Victorian era.

    At least as far as the English tradition is concerned, this is where so many discussions of the rules simply founder. In may ways the backbone of the rules resides above all in technique. The DR suits are kind of fun, but you would never mistake them for SR. There are distinctly SR ways of doing things, everything from silhouette to button holes to color matching. As far as technique goes, the Nutter suit is squarely within the SR canon--even impeccably so. A db tweed jacket, say, could be executed in precisely the same way.
     
  12. dv3

    dv3 Senior member

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    While I see where you're coming from, I have to disagree. Whatever else you think of it, the Nutter suit is pure Savile Row. Look at those shoulders and chest. There is a sort of mod thing going on, but there are also distinct echos of the thirties and forties, even the Victorian era. At least as far as the English tradition is concerned, this is where so many discussions of the rules simply founder. In may ways the backbone of the rules resides above all in technique. The DR suits are kind of fun, but you would never mistake them for SR. There are distinctly SR ways of doing things, everything from silhouette to button holes to color matching. As far as technique goes, the Nutter suit is squarely within the SR canon--even impeccably so. A db tweed jacket, say, could be executed in precisely the same way.
    I get this, and I was hoping to prompt some discussion on the topic--it appears to have been effective. In what ways (and in as much detail as you care to go into) does the Nutter suit "fit squarely within the SR cannon," you mention a few superficially. I hope others can chime in on this topic as well. Moreover, there was previous discussion of creating a thread with examples from the various tailors where one could visually compare the silhouettes and other details of the suits (pending clear photos). From this I hoped, for myself and others uneducated on the topic, to gain knowledge on what characterizes the different makers and to help differentiate, for example, an SR suit from one made in Milan. If possible, it would be great if we could discuss these same issues. Thanks in advance for posts on this topic, I know it can be very time consuming. I would love to learn more and I am sure others will appreciate the knowledge as well.
     
  13. meister

    meister Senior member

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    No reason except my usual tangential motives, but as long as we are mentioning Jagger, here are some 1988 pics of Jagger-era Jerry Hall from LIFE that I like...this is a good a place as any to park them:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    - B


    Thanks for that. I will never forget her coming out dancing on that Bryan Ferry track and wondering who she was....the Yellow Rose of Texas....
    I have a belted leather duster coat in butterscotch from Tommy Nutter (handed down from my father, as ever) that I'm very fond of. The leather is acquiring patinas and cracking a little here and there since it saw some uncomfortable storage during the 90s

    Pecards is the answer or part way the answer.
     
  14. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    I get this, and I was hoping to prompt some discussion on the topic--it appears to have been effective. In what ways (and in as much detail as you care to go into) does the Nutter suit "fit squarely within the SR cannon," you mention a few superficially. I hope others can chime in on this topic as well.

    Moreover, there was previous discussion of creating a thread with examples from the various tailors where one could visually compare the silhouettes and other details of the suits (pending clear photos). From this I hoped, for myself and others uneducated on the topic, to gain knowledge on what characterizes the different makers and to help differentiate, for example, an SR suit from one made in Milan.

    If possible, it would be great if we could discuss these same issues.

    Thanks in advance for posts on this topic, I know it can be very time consuming. I would love to learn more and I am sure others will appreciate the knowledge as well.


    Sadly, superficiality is sort of my metier. Is it enough to say I know Savile Row when I see it? I do wish I had a better technical grasp of things so I could explain, for example, why the chest on that Nutter suit is the way it is and why it is all of a piece with standard Savile Row technique. There is a great old post by Manton somewhere around here going into some detail about various silhouettes. That would certainly be worth your time to seek out and read.


    But why are we letting this thread drown in a sea of hopsack?
     

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