A tailoring trip to Italy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Solari, Mar 10, 2016.

  1. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Hi guys,

    I'm thinking to travel to Italy for 10 days or so later this year (I'm open to travel between cities) and I'm planning to order some bespoke/MTM items for better value whilst I'm there.

    Can anyone recommend the right tailors to go to? In terms of a) getting a better price in Italy versus in London and b) getting a bespoke item made properly within 7-10 days
    I'm looking to get:

    a) a set of ~6 work shirts
    b) bespoke trousers
    c) a proper neapolitan jacket
    d) maybe a tie

    Thank you!
     
  2. chobochobo

    chobochobo Rubber Chicken Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I've no experience with getting stuff made in Italy but if the travelling Italian tailors are anything to go by, you don't get Italian bespoke to save money. Furthermore, if you want it made properly as you say, you shouldn't really set a time limit of a week or so.
     
  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Prices in Naples have been part, to a certain degree, in what made Neapolitan bespoke tailors famous all across Italy since the 1950's.

    Edit: Some details:
    Machine made bespoke shirts (leaving aside hand details)
    Naples - around 80-100 Euro (or GBP 61-76) no min order vs London (Emma Willis) £380 ( or Euro 429) with a min order of 3 to 6....

    Trousers:
    Naples with hand details inc. fabric from a decent Sartoria (rather then directly to trousermaker to avoid poor customer service): 400-450 euro circa (GBP 303-341) vs
    London I heard about 600 GBP circa (about 792 euro) considering that A&S RTW are about £350 (462 euro)

    2 pieces suits:
    Naples from decent Sartoria with fabric about Euro 1800 (GBP 1364)
    London around 3000 GBP ( euro 3960)
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2016
  4. FlyGuy

    FlyGuy Well-Known Member

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    I have custom shirts by Piccolo and Salvatore Piccolo - note they are different houses - ~200 Eur

    I have custom ties by E. Marinella - 5/7/9 fold - ~100-150 Eur

    Investigated custom suits, etc, by:
    1) Rubinacci ~5000 and up Eur
    2) Cesare Attolini ~ 5000 and up Eur

    assume jackets are 75% of price, pants 25%

    Just research the Napoleon style as it's relatively unique vs rest of world.
     
  5. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    There are plenty of tailors well in their 60's that have a consolidated reputation in Naples that are charging around the price range I mentioned.

    Rubinacci, Attolini, Kiton, Isaia etc are wolrdwide brands, that makes a fair share of their business on RTW items and charge over market price for bespoke.

    Also, something that I keep wanting to mention, some of these RTW brands (with the exception of Rubinacci Neapolitan workshop), promote the Neapolitan jacket, however the pattern they cut it from is not the traditional, long front darted ones.

    As matter of fact, although they offer hand finishing details on their garments, most of their master tailors comes from a Ready To Wear pattern drafting background. Particularly, i am worried by the people I have seen setting up on their own after leaving the Kiton Tailoring school and having made some experience in other ready to wear factories, as the jackets patterns they are cutting are not traditional Neapolitan. I have received confirmation recently that the teachers at the school comes from Pattern Drafting Ready To Wear Background, one mostly in Argentinian Factories and the other from a Woman ready to wear background (Kiton has also a good Womanswear line).
     
  6. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Hi mate,

    Thanks - could you recommend one or two of the good, authentic neapolitan jacket or suit makers that are around the 2k Euro range? I wouldn't know which to go to other than the more overpriced Rubinacci/Kiton/Attolini etc
     
  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    .

    I personally use Sartoria Gianni Volpe for suits, jackets and odd trousers but I believe Solito in Naples should be around the same price range.

    For shirts I now use mostly Antica Camiceria Lombardi for consistency, but order some quirky stuff from Vittoria Fluido as well, and may be trying a new one in April.
     
  8. asturiano

    asturiano Senior member

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    @marcodalondra,

    Do you know Manifatture Caracciolo ?
     
  9. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Honestly never heard of it. Caracciolo is the family name of one of the great aristocratic families of the Kingdom of Naples and I doubt they run a Sartoria, so the name must refer to a location (eg Via Caracciolo peraphs).

    As discussed with @carpu65 somewhere else on this forum, I consider to be great tailors the ones that comes from the great schools present in Naples in the period from the 1930 to early 1960's like Schiraldi, Blasi, Caggiula etc, and these are the likes of Volpe, Paone, Sabino, Solito, Panico and really only few others.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2016
  10. CriticBespok

    CriticBespok Member

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    I had suits from A lot of tailors in Naples and in Florence/Milan.
    Actually i had a bad experience with some and a really good one with others.
    At the moment i have 2 trusted tailors in Naples.
    If you want advices you can pm me and i will try my best to give you a review on most tailors.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2016
  11. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    As you presumably joined this forum to share your experience why don't you share your recommendations for Italian tailors in both Naples, Milan and Florence in this post?
     
  12. CriticBespok

    CriticBespok Member

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    You are right, but I just wanted to write if necessary.
    These are the tailors i tried:
    Milan: Marigliano - Campagna
    Florence: Liverano - Cisternino
    Naples: Pirozzi - Annunziata - Ambrosi - Solito - Panico -Tofani - Paone - Sodano.

    Now if the user can give me a price range I will remove the ones too expensive/cheap and give him a better review on the one he likes.
    Best,
     
  13. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Thanks. And by Marigliano in Milan, do you mean Gianni Marigliano or someone else? Which of the Pirozzi? Some young ones as well coming from "modellismo" schools that are often features on "brand ambassadors" (new name for...) blogs, rather then coming from traditional Sartoria apprenterships
    Who are the tailors that you currently use?
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2016
  14. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Hahaha cracking the whip!
     
  15. Camilo

    Camilo Well-Known Member

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    Bumping this thread to ask if anyone has had any experience with Cisternino. I PM'ed CriticBespok but haven't gotten a reply. Anyone else?
     

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