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A Special-Edition Foofing: Why Everyone Else is Wrong

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 16, 2011.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Recently, SF member Hercules posted photos of his English-American MTM suit. He looked terrible. Most of the comments directed him to toss the suit out or consider it a loss. However, I argued that, in fact, the suit was not so bad at all. It seemed to me that people were merely reacting to the circumstances of the photo and, to an extent, the SF-unfashionable style of the suit. This is a general problem with Styleforum. We don't take the time to learn about the little things that make a suit fit right or wrong, so our critiques are often vague, overblown, and misguided. So, to make my point, I did this "semi-foof." I made only two substantive changes: (1) re-cut the front quarters, and (2) straightened out the trousers. I also did some other subtle things to eliminate the visual effects of the wind. A tailor could make both changes to the suit I implemented--notice how the button holes are the in the same place. Unlike make situations where quarters are more closed than desired, this is salvageable. I hope you can see that this is actually a decent suit and did not deserve to be trashed: [​IMG] Here is a full-foof: [​IMG] Still, only minor changes. I raised the collar of both the jacket and shirt, improved the lapel roll, widened the shoulders a tad, and then widened the lapels to match. All said and done, this is a better-than-average SF suit.
     
  2. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Internet Bigtimer and Most Popular Man on Campus

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  3. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    still think it looks bad, it looks like he is shrugging his shoulders and the jacket proportions still boxy and lopsided, but great job ironing the pants! At the end of the day, it's hercules's cash so he should do as he pleases, not what is said/foofed here.


    BTW, he posted a non-windy pic that you may find easier foofing, again, those shoulders are just beyond repair.
     
  4. Coburn

    Coburn Well-Known Member

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    Great insight!!

    I held my hand over the lower torso to be certain about this...

    Opening the quarters slimmed the entire torso from arm-pit to jacket hem.
    It added height.
    It also, slimmed his hips.

    That's remarkable. What is that, maybe, a 1 or 2 inch opening of the quarters?

    This is wonderful example of the very elusive nuances of fit and proportion.

    I think the edge of the quarters directs the eye up the torso on an angle that creates a subtle change in the perception of the proportions. I can't articulate how that happens.

    I've wondered about the nature of visual perception.
    I think we tend to see it as a camera -- a static 'picture' of a frozen in time.

    But, I suspect, visual perception is actually constant rapid scanning. I'm not sure that the eye ever stays still.

    So, perhaps the key to understanding good fit and proportion is to see the composition as a set of lines and silhouettes that direct the eye in optimum direction. The brain processes these scans on an unconscious level then reveals to the conscious mind an abridged version that we perceive as a snapshot.

    I don't have much else to say on this. It's just a set of inchoate thought.

    I've got to go back to work.

    Always like the Foofs!!
     
  5. Navi

    Navi Well-Known Member

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    BTW, he posted a non-windy pic that you may find easier foofing, again, those shoulders are just beyond repair.

    +1. Shoulders just extend too far out to be fixed. Good job, though, foo. You turned a crap suit into a "pretty decent suit" [​IMG]
     
  6. alliswell

    alliswell Well-Known Member

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    those shoulders are just beyond repair.

    Shoulders will be better after scaffolding is removed.
     
  7. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Well-Known Member

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    I raised the collar of both the jacket and shirt, improved the lapel roll, widened the shoulders a tad, and then widened the lapels to match.
    I believe you also removed some items from his trouser pockets, no?
     
  8. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Well-Known Member

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    still think it looks bad, it looks like he is shrugging his shoulders and the jacket proportions still boxy and lopsided, but great job ironing the pants! At the end of the day, it's hercules's cash so he should do as he pleases, not what is said/foofed here.


    BTW, he posted a non-windy pic that you may find easier foofing, again, those shoulders are just beyond repair.


    +1
     
  9. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

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    I believe you also removed some items from his trouser pockets, no?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG] Something still looks dumpy about this suit. Could be the shoulders. I think they might be too wide. Would need to see a back picture for definitive proof. Also, the person either has abnormally wide hips or the jacket and pants are cut too wide. Then again, could be the angle of the picture.
     
  11. dunelly

    dunelly Well-Known Member

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    take the padding off the shoulders
     
  12. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Well-Known Member

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    Nice work Foo-

    As a former customer of EA through a local tailor, I'll offer that some of the needed changes will require a good 3rd party tailor because EA's shop is proving to miss routinely in a couple of areas. Most noticeably, no matter how good the originating tailor is that took the measurements and was specific about the desired padding, cut in the shoulder and the front balance, it always comes back "their way".

    They especially overbuild the chest and the shoulders.

    My local guy is tearing apart an early EA commission of mind to see what he can do. But I know my source tailor is rethinking business with them.

    If Hercules checks in- was that measured at EA or by a 3rd party? If the latter, they should be drubbed.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    I'd bet none of you would be complaining about the shoulders if they were on a Tom Ford or Savile Row suit.
     
  14. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    I'd bet none of you would be complaining about the shoulders if they were on a Tom Ford or Savile Row suit.
    See this thread and the comments about this picture. (The EA suit's shoulders aren't as severe, but still): [​IMG]
     
  15. edmorel

    edmorel Well-Known Member

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    I'd bet none of you would be complaining about the shoulders if they were on a Tom Ford or Savile Row suit.

    the shoulders are not just overpadded in relation to the body of the suit, but they are just wrong. The right seems to be extended and the left seems to end at his natural shoulder. Then we have to keep in mind that the OP requested a "slim" suit. Regardless of what we think of slim suits and while slim means different things to different people, this could not be considered a slim suit by any stretch of the imagination. The client wanted one thing, the tailor delivered something different and it was not even a good fit in the manner the tailor made it.
     
  16. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Well-Known Member

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    Padding of shoulders looks like shit still. Change it. Also.
     
  17. alliswell

    alliswell Well-Known Member

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    I'd bet none of you would be complaining about the shoulders if they were on a Tom Ford or Savile Row suit.

    I'll take your money, though the comparison is inapt.
     
  18. ruben

    ruben Well-Known Member

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    This is a general problem with Styleforum. We don't take the time to learn about the little things that make a suit fit right or wrong, so our critiques are often vague, overblown, and misguided.


    Where can we learn these things?
     
  19. luftvier

    luftvier Well-Known Member

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    the shoulders are not just overpadded in relation to the body of the suit, but they are just wrong. The right seems to be extended and the left seems to end at his natural shoulder. Then we have to keep in mind that the OP requested a "slim" suit. Regardless of what we think of slim suits and while slim means different things to different people, this could not be considered a slim suit by any stretch of the imagination. The client wanted one thing, the tailor delivered something different and it was not even a good fit in the manner the tailor made it.
    QFT. I can't stand behind the Foof's opinion in this case.
     
  20. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Well-Known Member

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