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A short, stocky man goes to Rubinacci

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Solari, Apr 28, 2016.

  1. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Hi,

    I know you guys don't owe me anything, but I'd really appreciate your help...

    I'm 5'7 (169cm) with a stocky-ish build, not fat at all - just stocky, and broadish shoulders.

    I'm going for my first ever bespoke suit in a few weeks time, from Rubinacci.

    I'm trying to brainstorm ideas around what I should go for - because, I have some ideas of what I like... but can't quite make my mind up on what to go for my first bespoke suit, especially since it's going to be so expensive.

    So given that there are plenty of experienced members here, I was wondering if you could give me some advice... please!

    Some info on my taste/requirements:

    I do not plan to wear the suit much at all, perhaps 3-6 times per year
    I would be wearing it in London - (i.e. nothing too summery)
    I do like the idea of double-breasted and think I'd be comfortable wearing it - but I've never worn it before and would like the style to suit my body shape
    I want something that looks quite special/exclusive
    I probably won't go for Rubinacci again for a while, because it's relatively expensive - so I want to maximise this opportunity

    Questions:

    Should I go double-breasted or single?
    Should I go for a two piece or three piece?
    How many pleats on the trousers, if any?
    How high should the trousers be?
    Should the trousers be cuffed?
    What advice do you have for lapel shape/size?
    Are there any cool details that I should at requesting?
    Any advice on colours?

    Please feel free to give me any other advice.
     
  2. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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  3. 89826

    89826 Senior member

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    If you can, get only a sport coat first. You learn greatly from that first experience.

    Then tackle a suit.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Get a blue blazer or sport jacket out of something nice. That way you can always wear it without advertising your RUBINACCI. That can be SB or DB. Either way, just make sure it's not too short for comfort. Let them take care of everything else: lapels, etc. That's their job, and they do it differently from anyone else you've dealt with. Ask questions, but don't assume that you're a better designer than they are. And don't screw around with fancy details. This thing has to look right even after you've come to your senses.

    Another option would be a tweed jacket. SB, I suppose, unless they convince you otherwise.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
  5. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    I hope it works out for you. It seems you'll have to just leave it to them. Just don't let Lucca get at you otherwise you'll be leaving with a fluorescent green number.
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    The OP said he wants a suit, not a sport coat. My advice is to get a charcoal or navy near solid (pin dot, Birdseye, herringbone, etc) from the 13 oz H. Lesser book or equivalent. Single breasted, 2 piece. For my first Rubinacci, I got a 3 piece and after it was finished, Mariano suggested 2 piece going forward. Italian tailors don't love doing vests. And it adds a lot to the cost so pass on the vest for the first one. As for the details, solicit the advice from either Luca or Mariano. These guys are really good and know what they are doing.

    Enjoy the experience, don't overthink things like most people on this board would. You are paying a premium so that you don't need to micromanage or "Igent" the process.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Seems like this heavily depends on what's already in your closet.

    If you're literally starting from scratch, I would consider getting a navy suit that you can break into separates. Maybe a Fresco or hopsack suit. It's a controversial thing around here since some people (rightly) feel this will make the jacket neither fish nor fowl (depending on your design choices), but for a guy who rarely wears a suit, this might be the best way to get the most out of your money. Why get a really expensive bespoke suit that you'll only wear three times per year? If you can wear the jacket as a sport coat, you'll get much more use out of it.

    @Manton has a good thread on his "BlazerSuit." It has a really nice discussion of the details that would go into that sort of jacket. See here:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/71198/the-amazing-blazer-suit

    Voxsartoria also had one about a SwissArmy jacket

    http://steeds-view.blogspot.fi/2009/04/sas-swiss-army-suit.html

    A navy suit isn't going to be eye catching in the sense you probably want, but the fit and make will make it stand out.

    If you already have a navy suit you like (or navy suits), then I would just consider applying the same concept to something else. Maybe a spring/ summer or fall/ winter suit that can be broken into separates.

    Also, I agree with @bry2000. From what I've seen, Mariano has excellent taste. Part of what you're paying for is his advice, so it might be good to explore this with him at your appointment.
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  8. Astaroth

    Astaroth Senior member

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    Having something that can be used as separates can work but only if you dial down the formality which in itself isnt a problem as long as you are wanting this to be the summer garden party type of suit rather than the job interview etc. Will depend somewhat where you are in the world as to what is considered "formal".

    At the end of the day, you go to a tailors because you like their style and so should be leaving the likes of lapel width etc to them, the only exception to this is if you are at purely driven by budget but seeing as you are going to Rubinacci rather than Brownes you clearly arent.

    What you should go for in terms of double/ single breasted etc depends on what you want to achieve. Do you want to look taller? Do you want to highlight your broad shoulders or make them look smaller? Once you've decided these points then there are plenty of articles that cover on how this is classically achieved. That all said, you can get a short fat guy in a double breasted suit that looks fantastic (though to be picky that doesnt mean he wouldnt have looked better in single breasted) and so if you are set on a certain style dont immediately rule it out just because it isnt what the books say is best for you.

    My general point though would be to be conservative. The "issue" with bespoke is too much choice and so a temptation to do something "different" and you end up with something of limited use as a consequence.
     
  9. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    Should I go double-breasted or single?

    Your call. Do you have other DBs? Post a picture.​

    Should I go for a two piece or three piece?

    Two. ​

    How many pleats on the trousers, if any?

    None, unless your tailor advises it.​

    How high should the trousers be?

    As high as you're comfortable with. Err on the high side. ​

    Should the trousers be cuffed?

    Is that your style? And isn't it considered a little rustic in the UK?​

    What advice do you have for lapel shape/size?

    They'll steer you toward a wider lapel than you'd get in the UK. Go with it.​

    Are there any cool details that I should at requesting?

    Youll have it semi or quarter lined because it's made in Naples, Otherwise don't sweat any small details. Who's going to know? Even working buttons are only visible up close.​

    Any advice on colours?

    Navy. Let this be your favorite suit, the one you can always reach for. No pinstripes, no patterns, just a right down the middle of the fairway navy suit. Let the fit do the talking. Then play with shirts and ties.​
     
  10. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    Rubinacci likes to use silk linings for the jackets. Just roll with it.
     
  11. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    This!
     
  12. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    That is nothing to worry about. Luca may wear loud clothes on his internet photos, but he has great discretion when it comes to dressing clients for the city. I have dealt with Luca so I am speaking from first hand experience.

    If you want something showy and loud, he can help you, I am sure . Equally so if you want a proper City suit.
     
  13. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Thank you very much.

    No I don't have any DBs actually! I have 2 Aquascutum RTW suits and 2 Suitsupply MTM, all single and either charcoal/navy/black.

    Probably best not to get cuffs in the UK - you're right.

    Pleats I wouldn't mind but I'd let Mariano decide on that along with the lapels and other details as you say.

    I do still need to decide on DB vs SB though. Hmm...
     
  14. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Thanks. What makes you say SB vs DB?
     
  15. Solari

    Solari Senior member

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    Thank you.
     
  16. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Go with cuffs and pleats if you want. If you're a stocky guy, pleats may be essential to getting a good drape and room in your front pockets. I suspect that Rubinacci is Italian enough to want to do them backwards, but they'll probably execute them very well.
     
  17. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    I can take that back. The choice is yours. I only have SB from Rubi so I am not familiar with his DB. I have DB from other tailors and I am happy with them.
     
  18. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Absolutely, he's probably got lots of suits and after you build up a large collection your taste can become a lot less conservative than the average bespoke client. A large and varied wardrobe is good thing for someone like him, it allows you to "experience" a cloth or cut or style like a client. You can make up a 100 suits in a fabric but unless you wear it yourself how can you really talk about its characteristics? It's like a chef not eating food. It's always good to push the limits and try new things as a designer it's how you stay fresh.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2016

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