A Shoemaker's blog... or something like that

[Wrigglez]

Your shoes are stunning, sadily, I live in Australia, the 'other side of the world' is a long way to go for me.

just for a bit of networking through styleforum, Does anyone know of bespoke shoemakers in Melbourne Australia?

By the way, wearing bespoke shoes that cost that much, although beautiful as they certianly are, i think i would be paraniod that i would scratch the shoe in some way.

Marcel, just quickly, i'm sick of buying shoes and after 3 wares the leather crease up horribly where the shoe bends on the upper part of the shoe. is this 'reversible' or how do i avoid it for future reference?

thanks for your time,
regards,
James

 

[MarcellHUN]

Dear James,
I am afraid, there is no way to avoid that wrinlkes in those shoes, which are made from low/middle quality, thin leather and most probably with canvas lining. I would suggest these things:

- use appropriate shoe trees (bespoke makers give EXACT sizes - to keep the shape)
- use shoe cream to keep the leather soft
- let the shoe rest - one day wearing, one day rest - it gives time to the leather to dry a bit inside.
- buy good sizes! Do not buy just "comfortable" shoes - tha balls on the foot MUST be in a good position! If not - it can cause extra wrinkles
- if the wrinlkes are strong (and diagonal) can be, that your foot is a bit deformed - go and check it! Small deformations can be corrected easily and save your old days from pain.

Hope it helps.


Marcell

 

[jimmyshoe]

Originally Posted by Fishball

Thanks Jimmy. I will try it soon.
Is the rosin same as we use on violin bow?
Yes but that is quite expensive. Try to find somewhere that sells it by the kilo. And yes the air temperature will greatly affect the hardness/brittleness of the wax. It never gets too cold here, so it doesn't cause a problem, and a few minutes on the radiator sorts it out

What thread do you use?

 

[janne melkersson]

Not often there is talk about how to make shoemakers wax so here is an old English recipe;
"Wax that will work up the pure bronze color so much liked by shoemakers may be made of 4lbs resin, 1lb pitch, 4 ounces beeswax and three ounces refined tallow"

I use a little simpler version;
50/50 resin/pitch and then mix it with beeswax or tallow if it is to brittle

Here is an old recipe for shoe varnish;
"Put half a pound of gum shellac broken up into small pieces in a quart bottle or jug, cover it with alcohol, cork it tight, and put in on a shelf in a warm place; shake it well a several times a day; then add a piece of camphor as large as an hens egg; shake it again and add one ounce of lampblack. If the alcohol is good it will be all disolved in three days; then shake and use.
If the material are all good it will be removed only by wearing it of, giving a gloss almost equal to patent leather"

This recipe might be interesting for those who like shiny shoes. I have not tested it so if someone give it a try please let us know the result.

I got these recipe from JP Myhre some ten years ago and it is copied from an English book. Unfortunately I don't know the name of it.

 

[Fishball]

Jimmy,

I don't know where to buy the rosin in HK other than the music shop, however, the "poor" (for violin use) quality rosin from China is cheap, much much cheaper than the europe one. So I think it will be ok.

My thread is barbour linen thread from england or irish IIRC.

 

[Fishball]

Janne,

I just use gum shellac for my calligraphy, I don't know it can be use for shoe. Thanks for the recipe. I think it is for black shoe only, right?

 

[janne melkersson]

Fishball,
I have not used it so I am not sure if it is for black shoes only.

Here is another recipe, a bit scary though !
"Chinese waterproofing composition for leather;
3 parts of blood deprived of its fibrin, four of lime, and a little alum"

This one is perhaps better;
"waterproofing composition for leather;
Melt over slow fire 1/4 of boiled linseed oil, a pound of mutton suet, 3/4 of a pound of yellow beeswax, and a 1/2 pound of common resin. When still a little warm rub over the boots or shoe, till the whole are completed saturated"

 

[jimmyshoe]

Originally Posted by janne melkersson

Fishball,
I have not used it so I am not sure if it is for black shoes only.

Here is another recipe, a bit scary though !
"Chinese waterproofing composition for leather;
3 parts of blood deprived of its fibrin, four of lime, and a little alum"

This one is perhaps better;
"waterproofing composition for leather;
Melt over slow fire 1/4 of boiled linseed oil, a pound of mutton suet, 3/4 of a pound of yellow beeswax, and a 1/2 pound of common resin. When still a little warm rub over the boots or shoe, till the whole are completed saturated"
Goodness me! I think you have the same book as me. A little treasure trove of recipes, most of which would terrify even the bravest of men. I tried a lot of wax variations and find that the simpler the better, both in terms of usability and ease of finding the ingredients. There is a little shop in East London that sells really weird stuff like oxalic acid (for getting black marks off natural leather soles/heels) and all those things needed for these old recipes. I always feel that I will be reported to the police for being a potential bomb maker when I leave with an armful of noxious chemicals. Still, I think they have stranger clients than me lol. Keep posting guys, this is interesting

 

[MarcellHUN]

Koronya history... This is a window in my workshop, but the interesting part of the picture are hangings on the wall: on the left hand side those two tools were used by my great grandfather, who made beautiful straps for horses. When I touch those tools I feel something, what I cannot describe - especially not in English. I don't use them as I just make shoes, but I felt right to bring them to the workshop, which wears his name. They are there, watching me making shoes, and there is a little bit of my anchestors. (these thing are older than 150 years - still in good conditions as they are relics of my family)

Another untold story..

There are thing around us - I am sure you have also some - you don't know from where, as they were there always. This old pair of wodden last can be more than 100 years old. Who knows who made shoes on them for small, crawling just learning to walk feet? Who knows what happened that small guy, when she or he grew up? This story will never be told. Anyway: these last are hanging there, keeping their secrets. ps. I was a bit sentimental this time. Next time I will talk about shoes again - I promise.

 

[Cary Grant]

Anything you share is perfect, Marcel.

I enjoy seeing your passion for what you do as much as anything. You are one of very few like this in your profession.

 

[Fishball]

I want to order some sole leather from a supplier, but I dont understand what they said in the quotation, what exactly it means "10-11 FS $180- 10Pkg" and "25 WOS $90- Box-20"

Anybody helps?

 

[MarcellHUN]

Must bu some code to separate the beginners from the professionals..

Just kidding. Ask your supplier - that's what I do if I don't understand something. They must explain their codes if they want to make business with you, no?

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by MarcellHUN

Must bu some code to separate the beginners from the professionals..

Just kidding. Ask your supplier - that's what I do if I don't understand something. They must explain their codes if they want to make business with you, no?

Hehe, that "code" do separate the public from the pro.
The supplier is a wholesaler, they don't really like to make business with the end customer like me.
I was thinking the 8-10 either is the size or thickness ("irons") of the sole, but what is FS and WOS then? And it isn't make sense that 25 to be the size and thickness, so who can decode it for me? Please.

 

[MarcellHUN]

Sometimes a 130 years old brand can feel very young..

This picture has been made in Vienna last week. I couldn't stand to step on the 800 years old ground (part of the street), and make this photo.

Vienna is a beautiful place actually. Wherever you look, you will find traditions. Hungarian shoemaking can thank a lot for Vienna based shoemakers. The rivalry between them born great shoes and very skilled shoemakers. An interesting story about Vienna and Koronya Family: last years I decided to bring my grandmom there. She was 92 years old (still in good condition mentally and physically). This was the SECOND time that she was in Vienna, but the FIRST to go through a border. How it is possible? First time was in 1915 - Austria and Hungary was one empire. Her father went to the war (come back fortunately), and the family escorted with him to the train. Not needed to mention - everyone passed away, only old pictures saved them - but my grandma still here with us, and very proud that Koronya brand exist and recognised again. She cannot make shoe uppers anymore, but appreciate the quality - and believe me - more strict than any of my customer in it.

 

[MarcellHUN]

A REAL gunboat toe shoe

As you know all the (real) Budapest shoes are made to a specific gunboat toe last (also called Budapest). Sometimes shoemakers have to extend the last from the bottom - attaching one layer thick veg tanned leather. No problem with any other form with it, but Budapest is already a strong "gunboat", with a toe pointing forward, so one layer makes it even higher, and unbelievable hard to last the thick uppers. If any of you have seen a shoemaker lasting a piece of leather - can imagine what does it mean. Wrinkles, wrinkles... very strong, deep wrinkles. So the usual way, what I follow (can be seen in my videos - useles. It took hours to last correctly this piece, and I didn't talk about the complicated stitches on the edge. Anyway: the main point is: this customer loves Koronya Shoes, and he cannot wear anything else. He said, this is the only one (with the special insert I make for him, consulting with his orthopedic doctor) which keeps his feet correctly. Good for him, and good for me.

Anyway, if I guess well, some SF member from Austria will like this shoe.. hmm?