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A&S

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. JohnnyCrockett

    JohnnyCrockett Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Mine is back in Cumbria right now to have the waist taken in further


    I'm with Foo. Waist looks perfect as is.
     


  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The shorter length, relatively large lapels not counterbalanced by open quarters below the buttoning point, full chest, tight hips... all this just makes vox's coat look very top heavy and V-shaped. The balance (sorry) between the upper half and the lower half doesn't really work for me. I much prefer a coat that goes ) ( than a coat that goes \\ /

    Maybe more waist suppression, less roomy chest would address that and make it look more elegant.
     


  3. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    Here's what more waist suppression would look like. I think it looks ridiculous, but my bet is that almost everyone else prefers it:

    [​IMG]


    Prefer OG there too...
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    The shorter length, relatively large lapels not counterbalanced by open quarters below the buttoning point, full chest, tight hips... all this just makes vox's coat look very top heavy and V-shaped. The balance (sorry) between the upper half and the lower half doesn't really work for me. I much prefer a coat that goes ) ( than a coat that goes \\ /

    Maybe more waist suppression, less roomy chest would address that and make it look more elegant.


    You don't consider the quarters on Vox's jacket open? That's as open as I'd ever want to see them. Everyone agrees that the Rubinacci jackets posted on the forum have open quarters, and those are no more open.
     


  5. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    I once had a dog named Darwin*, so believe in Him.




    *Really. B&W Aussie Shepherd. Won some shows.


    Did somebody say Aussie? Look left for Bran, granddaughter of Bayshores Flapjack, winner of the Herding Division at Westminster (no big deal, I think Flapper was studded out to every Aussie dam on the East Coast. Nice work if you can get it).
     


  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    You don't consider the quarters on Vox's jacket open? That's as open as I'd ever want to see them. Everyone agrees that the Rubinacci jackets posted on the forum have open quarters, and those are no more open.

    I don't consider them particularly open, no (look at it next to Manton's and see where the bottom buttonhole overlaps the button), but that was a comparative comment any way, not an absolute one. The symmetry between the opening above the buttoning point and below it is at fault here IMO. It contributes further to the \\ / effect. Now look at Manton's symmetry: it's perfect. Exact same amount of space above and below - gives it a much more harmonious look.
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I don't consider them particularly open, no (look at it next to Manton's and see where the bottom buttonhole overlaps the button), but that was a comparative comment any way, not an absolute one. The symmetry between the opening above the buttoning point and below it is at fault here IMO. It contributes further to the \\ / effect. Now look at Manton's symmetry: it's perfect. Exact same amount of space above and below - gives it a much more harmonious look.
    Why would you want perfect vertical symmetry between the upper and lower halves of your jacket? Isn't a 'V' the ideal? That Vox's jacket has a "\\ / effect" (while remaining relaxed looking, nonetheless) is a triumph, not a failure, in my book. Anyway, one of the issues with Manton's jacket is a possible front balance problem (real "balance," not forum "balance"). A&S appears to have done something wonky to get the quarters to open that way, which is not the way they are typically opened. As we've seen in other examples of their work, they seem uncomfortable with "open" quarters. Instead of cutting the quarters more open, they appear to pull them open from the sides or the top (hence, the possible front balance issue). So, yes, they may be more open, but not in a way that is orthodox or representative of how open quarters typically look.
     


  8. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I really dislike the vox gun club. I can't put my finger on it, but it is one of the more wrong jackets I've seen on here. Glad he is getting it fixed.

    Also, to me the most notable part of manton's jacket is just how long the line of it is. Has that been discussed?

    Also, good morning.
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Isn't a 'V' the ideal?
    I'm confused. I thought I made it clear I did not like a jacket shaped in a V from shoulders to hips. Ideal in what sense? I don't think it's ideal at all since I actually dislike it and prefer a more symmetrical ) (, which I guess is what's ideal for me.

    Why would I not want a more harmonious, more symmetrical shape?
     


  10. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think it makes more sense to call one shape the "Y" (rather than the V) and the other the "X".

    You may all thank me now.
     


  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I think it makes more sense to call one shape the "Y" (rather than the V) and the other the "X".

    You may all thank me now.


    You don't like the use of punctuation marks such as \\ / , ) ( and > < ?

    But yes, you're right, it's a bit more like a Y than a V
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    You don't like the use of punctuation marks such as \\ / , ) ( and > < ?

    I was just trying to make the thread about me again. [​IMG]
     


  13. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Manton's jacket looks even more killer when compared to Vox's. Vox's coat is not bad, but Manton nailed it, plain and simple.
     


  14. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Here's what more waist suppression would look like. I think it looks ridiculous, but my bet is that almost everyone else prefers it:


    you are 100% correct, first one is better. Waist suppression has to be looked at from the perspective of how the shoulders and hips will look.

    I really dislike the vox gun club. I can't put my finger on it, but it is one of the more wrong jackets I've seen on here. Glad he is getting it fixed.


    For me, the only fix would be to change the square patch pockets, other than that I think it's great and will take on shape with wear. The one thing I have gleaned from all this, I really don't like the way the Brits do patch pockets.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I really dislike the vox gun club. I can't put my finger on it, but it is one of the more wrong jackets I've seen on here. Glad he is getting it fixed.
    But do you think he needs more waist suppression, or more open quarters? I think either would be detrimental.
    Also, to me the most notable part of manton's jacket is just how long the line of it is. Has that been discussed?
    Yes, but I was ignored because Lasbar thinks I'm a sociopath. I think the ultra-high gorge and very high breast pocket placement elongate his already very long torso--like taffy being stretched out.
    I'm confused. I thought I made it clear I did not like a jacket shaped in a V from shoulders to hips. Ideal in what sense? I don't think it's ideal at all since I actually dislike it and prefer a more symmetrical ) (, which I guess is what's ideal for me.
    My point is that you want to look like a woman [​IMG].
    Why would I not want a more harmonious, more symmetrical shape?
    Because, although you are French, you are not a woman.
     


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