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A&S

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG]
    Why is the top buttonhole overlapping so much with the button while the bottom one opens ? Isn't there a big front balance issue here? [​IMG]
     


  2. George

    George Senior member

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    Lasciate ogne speranze voi qu'intrate
    You guys like the first one best because the problem lies in the way the chest is cut/shaped, the shoulder line and the setting of the sleeves, not the waist suppression. The waist is fine as is.
    We need to get 'foo to doctor the chest then, so we can have a look, Foo! get t' doctorin'
     


  3. Fuuma

    Fuuma Franchouillard Modasse

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    Why is the top buttonhole overlapping so much with the button while the bottom one opens ? Isn't there a big front balance issue here? [​IMG]
    Can Foo add another pair of arms and some sick swords so I can muster an opinion? note: that'd be awesome...
     


  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Why is the top buttonhole overlapping so much with the button while the bottom one opens ? Isn't there a big front balance issue here? [​IMG]

    Maybe. It didn't draw my attention so much until you pointed it out. Or maybe he's hunching his shoulders. Either way, the jacket looks very good to me overall.
     


  5. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    Why the lower gorge? Your preference in general or something specific about Manton's body type?

    In any case, awesome work with FoofShop, as usual. I think #2 or #3 win but then again I also thought the photo of the other guy in AS posted by Andrew Rogers whom everyone thought looked like he was wearing an OTR BB sack looked great.
    [​IMG]


    Not my style. Should be way more open. Very little I like about this specimen.
     


  6. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    Foo, that's poor tailoring.

    I agree 100%.

    mafoo: How is this fantastic? Looks very shapeless to me.
     


  7. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    I agree 100%.

    mafoo: How is this fantastic? Looks very shapeless to me.


    The chest is pre-poofed, the quarters are utterly closed and there's no waist suppression. Typical old man boring tailoring with no sexiness. To Füf, those the makings of a masterpiece - the un-Füfable, if you will.

    LEGAL DISCLAIMER: I love Füf and all that he has brought to the forvm, he is a wonderful young chap and this critique is meant neither as a personal attack nor as an under-handed jab on his manhood (no homo?) Please everyone relax and thank you.
     


  8. Panzeraxe II

    Panzeraxe II Senior member

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    The chest is pre-poofed, the quarters are utterly closed and there's no waist suppression. Typical old man boring tailoring with no sexiness. To Füf, those the makings of a masterpiece - the un-Füfable, if you will.

    LEGAL DISCLAIMER: I love Füf and all that he has brought to the forvm, he is a wonderful young chap and this critique is meant neither as a personal attack nor as an under-handed jab on his manhood (no homo?) Please everyone relax and thank you.


    You know, writing "no homo" in literally all your posts just makes it all the less funny.

    In fairness, mafoo does not like shapeless suits - his own Rubi's, for example, are very nicely shaped.
     


  9. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    None of you know what you are talking about. That's not even Manton's jacket.
     


  10. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    You know, writing "no homo" in literally all your posts just makes it all the less funny.

    In fairness, mafoo does not like shapeless suits - his own Rubi's, for example, are very nicely shaped.


    It's just me being facetious. For decades, men said things like "I'll enter from the back" or "Nice butt, bro - you work out?" and never had to worry about disclaiming. The "no homo" trend is beyond absurd, which is why I find it so entertaining.

    As for Füf's Rubi's, they have shape, but not the dramatic waisting and flared skirt that is common the Row. This is the stuff people pay tailors big money for. IMO, it is to be commended, not "corrected" by armchair internets clothing critics who couldn't sew their way out of a paper bag.
     


  11. ramuman

    ramuman Senior member

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    It's just me being facetious. For decades, men said things like "I'll enter from the back" or "Nice butt, bro - you work out?" and never had to worry about disclaiming. The "no homo" trend is beyond absurd, which is why I find it so entertaining.

    As for Füf's Rubi's, they have shape, but not the dramatic waisting and flared skirt that is common the Row. This is the stuff people pay tailors big money for. IMO, it is to be commended, not "corrected" by armchair internets clothing critics who couldn't sew their way out of a paper bag.


    Quoted for amusing posterity.
     


  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I agree 100%. mafoo: How is this fantastic? Looks very shapeless to me.
    It looks very nicely fitted to me. The collar hugs his neck snuggly, the shoulder line is clean and smooth, as are the the lines of the sleeves, the cloth drapes smoothly down the torso, without any pulls or bunching, and there is nice, gentle shaping below the chest. The jacket isn't tight or wasp-waisted, but that doesn't mean it's shapeless or not fitted properly, does it? The two things that signal something (possibly) wrong are the wrinkling near the top of the sleeves and the large overlap at the top button.
    The chest is pre-poofed, the quarters are utterly closed and there's no waist suppression. Typical old man boring tailoring with no sexiness. To Füf, those the makings of a masterpiece - the un-Füfable, if you will.
    Oy. If you want to wear "sexy" jackets, that's your business. I'm strongly disinclined toward any such thing. Also, I don't see how you can call those quarters "utterly closed." They are actually fairly open.
    As for Füf's Rubi's, they have shape, but not the dramatic waisting and flared skirt that is common the Row. This is the stuff people pay tailors big money for. IMO, it is to be commended, not "corrected" by armchair internets clothing critics who couldn't sew their way out of a paper bag.
    This is plainly not true. That sort of military-inspired tailoring is only one paradigm on the Row, nonetheless in the larger world of bespoke. Also, waist suppression is not the hardest thing to implement. It was one of the last things determined in my fitting process at Rubinacci, and can be tweaked at will.
     


  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Not a fan of the bearded guy's A+S. I see what Foo is saying on the fit, but I guess the "style" is lacking - looks bland and undistinguished (unlike Manton's which looks very good to my eye).
     


  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why is the top buttonhole overlapping so much with the button while the bottom one opens?

    Dunno-- that seems to be typical of A&S's pure 3-button, and can be seen on many of Steed's jackets also. More of a country-inspired look, perhaps, which doesn't make it ideal for town suits (especially on certain bodies) but not necessarily defective. I don't mind it for soft tweeds.

    Another thing to consider is that the suit is quite new-- give it some break-in and let the lapels roll down (as they usually do) and you could get a slightly different animal.
     


  15. Sant'Omobono

    Sant'Omobono Active Member

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    Another thing to consider is that the suit is quite new-- give it some break-in and let the lapels roll down (as they usually do) and you could get a slightly different animal.


    Quite a fair point. Yet, I can't help agree with the others that it needs a bit more work.
     


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