Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by patrickBOOTH, Feb 27, 2013.
Are you PTWIlliams' brother?
I hate raglan sleeves.
I double-checked, and my memory was incorrect. Apologies. It's actually the Aq Kingsgate that has raglan sleeves; both the Aq cream SB trench and the Ede khaki SB raincoat I own have regular sleeves.
I don't like raglan sleeves on overcoats; all of mine have set-in sleeves. But on raincoats I'm OK with them. I'm not sure why I feel differently about the two items; perhaps because I view raincoats as a bit less smart (more akin to "technical" or functional clothing on the same spectrum as something informal like an anorak/parka) so I'm less fussy about preserving the slightly crisper appearance that more easily comes with typical sleeves. I can't see from the O'Connells small/low-resolution photo whether the Burberry model they stock has raglan sleeves or not, but I think it may well do, so do check with them if you go down that road. At the least, last time I looked in one of their shops, Burberry sold both raglan and set-in sleeve models.
I have a DB Grenfell that I am very happy with. It's also cut slimmer than similar models from Burberry and Aquascutum.
I'm going to inquire with Frank when I see him next week about making a trench with a removable lining. I am sure he can do it, but he might not want to. I am also curious of the price he would charge, certainly more than the Burberry. But the "not available in a store near you" factor is tempting.
I understand the impulse to get it done by Frank, but it seems a bit of a waste / extravagant to spend that kind of money on a coat that's meant to be worn infrequently during inclement weather. I suggest you buy yourself a nice RTW one, and invest the savings in another Ercole suit or coat.
The Grenfell mac I was referring to:
Needs more buttons.
Voice of reason for sure! I'm kind of thinking that a coat Frank makes wouldn't be that much more than say the Burberry one though. I mean when spending over $2k what's another $600, amirite?
Well, I think the Burberry one is a bit excessive as well (at least for a pleb like me ). The Grenfell is a great option, and its about $900. Aquascutum is a bit cheaper, as is Cordings.
Importantly, I also think a tailored look really goes against the ethos of a trench. It's telling that bespoke tailors like Tom Mahon and Raphael also opt for RTW trench coats, rather than make a bespoke one themselves.
It seems like I have a lot of great options here. Gotta dwell on it a while. Thanks for all of the help!
Oh, also, how do you pronounce Aquascutum?
I somehow always end up throwing a "scat" in there somewhere... Freudian slip?
"Ackwa Scrotum". RJMan taught me how to pronounce it.
Separate names with a comma.