A Proper Trench

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by patrickBOOTH, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Double breasted is better for flashing. The wrap keeps you warmer.


    Well, I will admit I have owned lower quality ones in the past and have always ended up selling them on ebay. I love the functionality and the fact that I can keep more of a crease in my trousers when wearing one, but the issue is when it rains and I am out walking in a trench I sweat profusely so the feeling of being in one is horrible. I am just getting so sick of soggy trousers I might have to yet again, suck it up and pull the trigger on one.
     


  2. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    That's a nice one; pretty much identical in broad style details to the Aq. Kingsgate, I think. For me personally, it's a couple of shades too pale. I think that's Burberry's "khaki" colour, but IIRC they also do a "honey" which is much closer to the colour I prefer in a trench.

    Trenchs are even more annoying to size right than overcoats though, so if you buy online make sure there's a returns policy and you're happy to put up with that hassle if you need to.

    BTW, I'm surprised you get sweaty in a trench; at least I never have. Maybe you're a faster/more energetic walker than me. I don't think that's just a cotton v manmade thing; I know my Kingsgate is pure cotton, but I think one of the other raincoats I own may (can't remember for sure) be a cotton-rich blend, but even with that, it's fine. Just steer clear of the old-fashioned plasticky kinds of raincoat & you should be fine, I'd say.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013


  3. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Nice to have friends in high places! I've never been a big fan of tan raincoats, though I acknowledge that it is probably the most proper color. I don't like the collar of the ones you guys referred to. I'll post a picture of mine this afternoon, you can have at that.
     


  4. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    You could probably find something serviceable in the Loro Piana Storm System book. Though I have to think it costs a pretty penny.

    The only time I've seen one bespoke was at Nino Corvato's shop. He used cotton gabardine which he Scotchguarded.

    I asked him how waterproof it was (since the seams weren't taped, etc.) and he just shrugged.
     


  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, I was thinking maybe cavalry twill. I don't think a business raincoat needs to be 100% perfectly waterproof. It is not like you are going to be standing in pouring rain for 8 hours.

    Holdfast, I am a greasy guinea as it is, so the breathability issues of the rain coat make it worse.
     


  6. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013


  7. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    That would be warm. Not a bad thing but something that would bother me.

    If you'd consider that, why not something like a 13 / 14 oz tweed? You could always scotchguard it and that will help.
     


  8. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, but then we are getting into, "Why not just wear by overcoat?" The cotton gab with scotch sounds like a pretty good idea. I'm not so sure if Frank can, or is willing to do a removable flannel liner or anything though. I think I am set, at least, on the design of the Burberry one. I like that if I get one made have more options for color.
     


  9. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    The Anne Hathaway



    I really liked the navy Grenfell one that used to be on the Armoury's site.
     


  10. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Hey, I have plenty of Greek genes in me ; that Mediterranean heritage comes with a price!

    Still, even so, I'm sure you'll be fine with a normal pure cotton trench that doesn't have any weird fancy rubberised coating.

     


  11. mymil

    mymil Senior member

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  12. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

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    I have also been in search of the perfect trench for some time now. Unfortunately, no luck as of yet, but I did stumble upon this rib-tickler:

    [​IMG]
     


  13. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    I've got a Burberry just like that one, purchased from eBay UK quite a few years back.

    The outer layer is 100% cotton (whereas most Burberry trenches nowadays have a blended fabric) and it came with a button-in, camelhair liner for colder weather.

    Given that daytime temps in winter here rarely go below 15 degrees celsius, I've never yet used the liner!

    It is a brilliant coat and, whilst expensive, should last a lifetime.
     


  14. ddgdl

    ddgdl Well-Known Member

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    Let us know what Frank says- I'd be interested to hear his reaction.
     


  15. williamson

    williamson Senior member

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    The single-breasted fly-front raglan-sleeve raincoat (which Holdfast has sometimes depicted in WAYWRN) is a classical style which has been around since the 1930s (it used to be referred to as the slip-on style) and is certainly not a late 1980s invention or fashion. I see it as a style for light rain, the true trench-coat being better for more "serious" rain.
     


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