A new top ten list of jeans - for Styleforum reborn.

[PG2G]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

I think I'll do just that. Good idea, although it was the thread that lead to the creation of the Streetwear & Denim forum...

Hrm... sentimental value. How about editing a link to it into your first post of this thread?

 

[tangerine]

Originally Posted by PG2G

Hrm... sentimental value. How about editing a link to it into your first post of this thread?

I second that. It is of historical as well as sentimental value.

 

[Brian SD]

Here's my list, at least until I can figure out how to move it up to underneath LA Guys. I might have a hard time with this - my list as it came to me in my head was almost identical to LA Guy's. Consider this list to be fairly loosely ordered. It's hard for me to put a 1-10 scale, as I consider most of these jeans to be almost equal in quality level, with the differences among them being subjective preferences.

1. Rag&Bone RB11 - Quite simply, an amazing pair of jeans in every respect, and a price tag to match. The RB11s are a democratic straight-leg, mid-low rise with a trim fit in the thighs and seat; I think it was Village Voice that said "Cut close, but not Euroslim," and that's the best description I've heard. I believe that all RB11's are selvage, but don't quote me on that. The denim is light and easy to wear yet weighs in at 13.75 ounces... an incredibly compact weave, with extreme 3-dimensional texture. The details here are pretty unbelievable. A total of 5 different thread colors run through-out the jeans. Rivets are incredibly high quality and have debossed leaf logos on the back of them. The waistband is covered with a brushed cotton interface, which adds a very nice touch and makes them VERY comfortable. The waistband is cut very well to get a flattering fit around the hips. The inseams run slightly short, so be careful of this, especially when buying online. Sizing on the waist is pretty much spot-on, but like all lower rises, the measurements show a slight increase over the tag size. Right now they're running $275 - $325.

2. 5EP Low Down Bootcut in Resin Wash - This works, since LA Guy put the Straight Down on his. The LDB is a skinny fit, with a slightly lower rise than the Straight Down, but is still considered a middle or higher rise jean. The details here are impeccable: hidden rivets in the seat, no-scratch rivets on the pockets (including a nicely done Wrangler-style coin pocket), a seriously awesome yet simple selvage seam (one of the few that I'd really like to show off), and tons of other stuff I can't bother to list. The fit is great - fitted in the thighs, with a pretty much perfect bootcut - subtle yet flattering. The color is my favorite part. I saw mine cycle from an almost black blue, to a deep purple, to a light turquoise, and to a light yellow where the most wear had occured. Sizing on the waist is about one size big. Inseams are spot-on. One-wash is $279.

3. Helmut Lang Classic Fit in Raw - The classic pair of close-fitting stovepipe designer jeans, that wear into beautiful grey blue. While the denim isn't anything to necessarily run home about (comparing to the two above on the list), they're worlds beyond most of what else is out there on the shelves, especially from other European designers. The details are not spectacular, but this is part of the appeal of these minimalist jeans. It might be quite a task to find these jeans these days, but I'm keeping them on the list regardless, because they are around for SS/06, and will probably on eBay for some time. Sizing is pretty true. I think they're around $200.

4. Eternal 811, Studio D'Artisan SD-103 - Slim straight-leg Levis-based jeans from Japan. In many respects these two jeans are very similar, so they're occupying the same spot on my list. The main difference between the two is that while the Studio D'Artisans have a little more of a true blue fade and are rope-dyed, the Eternals have a slightly green-casted fade, which has made them famous. The fit is slim, though not painted-on-tight, and the rise is middle-low. As expected from a Japanese company, the denim is superlative. They're very starchy and stiff, and thus will fade quicker than the more Americanized jeans listed above. Depending on how you get them, they can vary in price, but the mean is about $250.

5. Nudie Thin Finn - New York Dolls and other 70s rock & roll fashionista style has really penetrated the market recently, and with the multitude of skinny jeans available, one pair really stands as king. Nudie Thin Finns have a skinny fit down to the ankles, yet with a masculine, classic Levi's 606 appeal instead of effeminite and nut-hugging. If you're going for a skinny jean, this is the pair, though be aware of the garish back pocket design (easy to remove if you're not a fan). Nudie construction and denim quality is always great at this price point and the tightness of these jeans will produce some intense whiskering. Priced at around $160.

6. 45rpm Jomon - Yea, well I knew our lists would be similar. Jomon is the newest model from 45rpm, and has a slimmer fit than the Sorahiko and Aihiko, though the rise is still high and the seat is a bit loose. They definitely have a classic 501-style fit, though what seperates them is the amazing color and denim that they use. Apparently they slow down the looms tremendously to produce the Jomons, which results in a more textured denim and increased production time (and price). They're rope-dyed by hand with natural indigo, and produce an unbelievably deep color. Details are superlative, as would be expected. As a work of art, these jeans are bar-none - but works of art are never cheap. These jeans cost a staggering $900.

7. APC New Standards / Rescues - Of course they had to come on here. Despite problems with ridiculous sizing, these jeans still sit on the throne for entry-level unwashed denim. The fits are basic and democratic, and the lack of embellishment makes them attractive to a lot of people who don't feel comfortable with fancy pocket stitching or extra rivets. The main difference between the two is that the Standards are slightly tapered, have a slightly lower rise and are a little bit slimmer, while the Rescues are straight-leg (don't believe the lies, they do NOT have a bootcut). They're both $140 right now.

Okay, that's it for me. I'm already tired from just writing 7.

 

[PG2G]

Regarding LA Guy and Brian's 45RPM prices, I think the one-wash jomons are $754 and the Sorahiko's are $333 for one-wash.

 

[nairb49]

Brian-I think I would have listed exactly the same top ten, with the exception of Rag and Bone since I've never had any experience with them.

Very pleased you included Helmut in there, I definitely think he deserves credit for being basically the only designer (IMO) to come out with decent cuts/washes etc.

 

[Nil]

I have a pair of the Earnest Sewn Hutch in Maz Dark and they are by far my best fitting pair of jeans. The only problem I have is much like LA Guy's gripe, I find the denim just a bit too light. I've been wearing them frequently for 3 or so months and the knees are already getting thin and I'm afraid will begin to tear in the near future. So I've begun to look around for jeans that fit almost exactly like those except for being made of a bit sturdier denim. As you mentioned Nudie Regular Ralfs as being comparable in fit, I was wondering just how close the sizing is. A size 36 in ES fit me perfectly, would a 36 in RRDS be alright?

 

[whoopee]

The RRDS run about a size larger, so try 35 for a similar fit. Keep in mind the rise is higher than the Hutch.

 

[nairb49]

^^agreed.

But, if you have the opportunity to try them on first, consider even 2 sizes down. I have a 31 in the ES hutch which fit perfectly, and a 32 in the Nudie which started off fine, but have now since easily stretched out to 33.5-34 and require a belt.

 

[weirdnjfan1]

Can anyone post a list or is this just a mods only thing?

 

[LA Guy]

Originally Posted by weirdnjfan1

Can anyone post a list or is this just a mods only thing?

Sure, post a list, but do it in the same fashion - justify your list. A list with no justification is just sort of clutter.

 

[weirdnjfan1]

Originally Posted by LA Guy

Sure, post a list, but do it in the same fashion - justify your list. A list with no justification is just sort of clutter.

That's great, it's gonna take me a couple of days to do, but it will probably be the poor man's list, which is pretty cool idea. But as soon as it's done, I'll post it.

 

[tweedlesinpink]

Originally Posted by weirdnjfan1

the poor man's list

i'll be watching out for it. i'm a poor man looking for love.

 

[denimdestroyedmylife]

^^ (in all the wrong places)

 

[Brian SD]

Originally Posted by denimdestroyedmylife

^^ (in all the wrong places)

Indeed

 

[weirdnjfan1]

Let me refrase myself. O ment to say jeans that any one could go out an afford.