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A new top ten list of jeans - for Styleforum reborn.

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Mar 24, 2006.

  1. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I'm surprised (but not really) that Corpus is still on your top ten. Overall, good list...I'd replace Corpus with a classic Levis 501 LVC or Japanese repro

    Nah, if I took Corpus out, I'd put in yen or something else modern. Repros are already pretty well represented with R by 45 RPM and Ironheart, imo.
     
  2. PG2G

    PG2G Senior member

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    Have you actually tried the 45RPM Jomons? What would you say they compare to, fitwise? I'm thinking of saving up a bit for them, mail ordering them, and being done with denim for at least a couple years :p
     
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Jomon's fit like 501's, but not *really* 47 repros, closer to 501s from the 80's imho (I am not a repro expert by any means, but certainly this was my perception from very limited experience. There is something about a pair of jeans costing half my rent that makes me rather uncomfortable wearing them). I don't own a pair myself, for obvious reasons, but know people approximately the same size as myself who have either Jomons or Aihikos (some are on this forum). PG2G, you really need to send me some money. IMHO, everyone who can afford a pair of Jomon's needs to send me money. In any case, I would definitely *not* buy a pair of Jomon's without first having visited the 45RPM store in NYC. Then, you can go to Jack Spade for a Loopwheeler sweatshirt and be wearing some of the best made and expensive classic streetwear around.
     
  4. PG2G

    PG2G Senior member

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    True, I guess I'll wait until I just happen to be in NYC (or to Japan again). It'd suck to buy some $700+ jeans and not have them fit correctly. Yay, that means more time to save :p

    I guess I'll need to see them in person to see if they actually warrant the 2x price increase over the sorahikos (probably not). And the price isn't so terrible when you look in your closet and realize that had you not bought 2-3 pairs of the 20 you have, you could be rocking a pair 45RPMs :p

    Hrm... now that I think about it, I should probably get a new pair of glasses instead.
     
  5. Joe E Taleo

    Joe E Taleo Senior member

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    Nice list, and like you said I'm agreeing, disagreeing, and scratching my head at some of your more (at least to me) obscure choices and omissions.

    Definitely seems like something for everyone, except for a good baggy jean, and I'd probably go for the Straight Svens over the Regular Ralfs.
     
  6. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Nice list, and like you said I'm agreeing, disagreeing, and scratching my head at some of your more (at least to me) obscure choices and omissions.

    Definitely seems like something for everyone, except for a good baggy jean, and I'd probably go for the Straight Svens over the Regular Ralfs.


    The Rogan Original cut is a pretty baggy jean. Someone mentioned PRPS, and although it is a decently made product, I find it overpriced and most of the washes extremely overdone. The PRPS wrinkled selvage jean is the closest PRPS product that would get near my top ten list (it would probably make the top 30, if not the top 20.)
     
  7. tweedlesinpink

    tweedlesinpink Senior member

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    I am batting 600, I think. I obviously don't have the Rogans, and I am not crazy rich, so I don't have a pair of r by 45RPM. I'll let you guess which are the others I don't have. I do have more, though they didn't make my own top ten list. Go figure.

    You couldn't possibly have a pair of Iron Hearts, could you?

    And really i need to get my own income. Conscription in the military service for a pay of peanuts gives me way too little spending power. Jeans, dammit!
     
  8. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Okay, this is the new list. Argue about it if you want. Let the older thread fade gracefully into Styleforum history.
     
  9. PG2G

    PG2G Senior member

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    Should we un-sticky it?
     
  10. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Should we un-sticky it?

    I think I'll do just that. Good idea, although it was the thread that lead to the creation of the Streetwear & Denim forum...
     
  11. PG2G

    PG2G Senior member

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    I think I'll do just that. Good idea, although it was the thread that lead to the creation of the Streetwear & Denim forum...

    Hrm... sentimental value. How about editing a link to it into your first post of this thread?
     
  12. tangerine

    tangerine Senior member

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    Hrm... sentimental value. How about editing a link to it into your first post of this thread?

    I second that. It is of historical as well as sentimental value.
     
  13. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

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    Here's my list, at least until I can figure out how to move it up to underneath LA Guys. I might have a hard time with this - my list as it came to me in my head was almost identical to LA Guy's. Consider this list to be fairly loosely ordered. It's hard for me to put a 1-10 scale, as I consider most of these jeans to be almost equal in quality level, with the differences among them being subjective preferences.

    1. Rag&Bone RB11 - Quite simply, an amazing pair of jeans in every respect, and a price tag to match. The RB11s are a democratic straight-leg, mid-low rise with a trim fit in the thighs and seat; I think it was Village Voice that said "Cut close, but not Euroslim," and that's the best description I've heard. I believe that all RB11's are selvage, but don't quote me on that. The denim is light and easy to wear yet weighs in at 13.75 ounces... an incredibly compact weave, with extreme 3-dimensional texture. The details here are pretty unbelievable. A total of 5 different thread colors run through-out the jeans. Rivets are incredibly high quality and have debossed leaf logos on the back of them. The waistband is covered with a brushed cotton interface, which adds a very nice touch and makes them VERY comfortable. The waistband is cut very well to get a flattering fit around the hips. The inseams run slightly short, so be careful of this, especially when buying online. Sizing on the waist is pretty much spot-on, but like all lower rises, the measurements show a slight increase over the tag size. Right now they're running $275 - $325.

    2. 5EP Low Down Bootcut in Resin Wash - This works, since LA Guy put the Straight Down on his. The LDB is a skinny fit, with a slightly lower rise than the Straight Down, but is still considered a middle or higher rise jean. The details here are impeccable: hidden rivets in the seat, no-scratch rivets on the pockets (including a nicely done Wrangler-style coin pocket), a seriously awesome yet simple selvage seam (one of the few that I'd really like to show off), and tons of other stuff I can't bother to list. The fit is great - fitted in the thighs, with a pretty much perfect bootcut - subtle yet flattering. The color is my favorite part. I saw mine cycle from an almost black blue, to a deep purple, to a light turquoise, and to a light yellow where the most wear had occured. Sizing on the waist is about one size big. Inseams are spot-on. One-wash is $279.

    3. Helmut Lang Classic Fit in Raw - The classic pair of close-fitting stovepipe designer jeans, that wear into beautiful grey blue. While the denim isn't anything to necessarily run home about (comparing to the two above on the list), they're worlds beyond most of what else is out there on the shelves, especially from other European designers. The details are not spectacular, but this is part of the appeal of these minimalist jeans. It might be quite a task to find these jeans these days, but I'm keeping them on the list regardless, because they are around for SS/06, and will probably on eBay for some time. Sizing is pretty true. I think they're around $200.

    4. Eternal 811, Studio D'Artisan SD-103 - Slim straight-leg Levis-based jeans from Japan. In many respects these two jeans are very similar, so they're occupying the same spot on my list. The main difference between the two is that while the Studio D'Artisans have a little more of a true blue fade and are rope-dyed, the Eternals have a slightly green-casted fade, which has made them famous. The fit is slim, though not painted-on-tight, and the rise is middle-low. As expected from a Japanese company, the denim is superlative. They're very starchy and stiff, and thus will fade quicker than the more Americanized jeans listed above. Depending on how you get them, they can vary in price, but the mean is about $250.

    5. Nudie Thin Finn - New York Dolls and other 70s rock & roll fashionista style has really penetrated the market recently, and with the multitude of skinny jeans available, one pair really stands as king. Nudie Thin Finns have a skinny fit down to the ankles, yet with a masculine, classic Levi's 606 appeal instead of effeminite and nut-hugging. If you're going for a skinny jean, this is the pair, though be aware of the garish back pocket design (easy to remove if you're not a fan). Nudie construction and denim quality is always great at this price point and the tightness of these jeans will produce some intense whiskering. Priced at around $160.

    6. 45rpm Jomon - Yea, well I knew our lists would be similar. Jomon is the newest model from 45rpm, and has a slimmer fit than the Sorahiko and Aihiko, though the rise is still high and the seat is a bit loose. They definitely have a classic 501-style fit, though what seperates them is the amazing color and denim that they use. Apparently they slow down the looms tremendously to produce the Jomons, which results in a more textured denim and increased production time (and price). They're rope-dyed by hand with natural indigo, and produce an unbelievably deep color. Details are superlative, as would be expected. As a work of art, these jeans are bar-none - but works of art are never cheap. These jeans cost a staggering $900.

    7. APC New Standards / Rescues - Of course they had to come on here. Despite problems with ridiculous sizing, these jeans still sit on the throne for entry-level unwashed denim. The fits are basic and democratic, and the lack of embellishment makes them attractive to a lot of people who don't feel comfortable with fancy pocket stitching or extra rivets. The main difference between the two is that the Standards are slightly tapered, have a slightly lower rise and are a little bit slimmer, while the Rescues are straight-leg (don't believe the lies, they do NOT have a bootcut). They're both $140 right now.

    Okay, that's it for me. I'm already tired from just writing 7.
     
  14. PG2G

    PG2G Senior member

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    Regarding LA Guy and Brian's 45RPM prices, I think the one-wash jomons are $754 and the Sorahiko's are $333 for one-wash.
     
  15. nairb49

    nairb49 Senior member

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    Brian-I think I would have listed exactly the same top ten, with the exception of Rag and Bone since I've never had any experience with them.

    Very pleased you included Helmut in there, I definitely think he deserves credit for being basically the only designer (IMO) to come out with decent cuts/washes etc.
     
  16. Nil

    Nil Senior member

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    I have a pair of the Earnest Sewn Hutch in Maz Dark and they are by far my best fitting pair of jeans. The only problem I have is much like LA Guy's gripe, I find the denim just a bit too light. I've been wearing them frequently for 3 or so months and the knees are already getting thin and I'm afraid will begin to tear in the near future. So I've begun to look around for jeans that fit almost exactly like those except for being made of a bit sturdier denim. As you mentioned Nudie Regular Ralfs as being comparable in fit, I was wondering just how close the sizing is. A size 36 in ES fit me perfectly, would a 36 in RRDS be alright?
     
  17. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The RRDS run about a size larger, so try 35 for a similar fit. Keep in mind the rise is higher than the Hutch.
     
  18. nairb49

    nairb49 Senior member

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    ^^agreed.

    But, if you have the opportunity to try them on first, consider even 2 sizes down. I have a 31 in the ES hutch which fit perfectly, and a 32 in the Nudie which started off fine, but have now since easily stretched out to 33.5-34 and require a belt.
     
  19. weirdnjfan1

    weirdnjfan1 Senior member

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    Can anyone post a list or is this just a mods only thing?
     
  20. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Can anyone post a list or is this just a mods only thing?

    Sure, post a list, but do it in the same fashion - justify your list. A list with no justification is just sort of clutter.
     

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