A horisontal or a litlle angled end of the pants?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by VladimirN, May 1, 2012.

  1. VladimirN

    VladimirN Active Member

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    Hello!
    I bought a suit (and a pants of course) and the end of the pants is unhemmed. I heard that tailor often make a little angle as shown on picture
    [​IMG]

    Your opinion? To make a horisontal cut or as shown on picture?
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What looks better to you?

    Having the back part angled longer than the front looks better and is more elegant to me.
     


  3. Cary Grant

    Cary Grant Senior member

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    +1
     


  4. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    :wow: :wow: :wow: :wow:

    long time bruv.

    and OP - i do prefer a shiver too ... back slightly longer than front.
     


  5. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    hard to disagree with Despos. ;) but yeah, i much prefer having the back a little longer than the front.
     


  6. Snedley

    Snedley Senior member

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    Of course. The front of the trouser should just hit the shoe so the rear must be pitched so it doesn't stick out and look stoopid.
     


  7. NotoriousMarquis

    NotoriousMarquis Senior member

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  8. asturiano

    asturiano Senior member

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    My tailor says that this is only made on a uncuffed trousers. Anyone know the reason behind this?

    I like it as I think that elongate your legs.
     


  9. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    Have you ever tried to angle a cuffed hem? Can you see how the cuffs compact the trouser seam? Go ahead and try it, it is not as easy as you think.

    Those of you who have been to military army officer's college will be aware how difficult it is to cuff a trouser with an angle and an "egg tooth".

    There are two important things we learned to shaping the bottom of our trousers.

    As a junior cadet you start by simply angling the trousers at the hemline, The longer portion is at the back and the front, slightly shorter, will lie higher on the shoe to present a slightly more elegant look.

    When men form a squad you need to see uniformity. Everyone's shoes at the back must be covered to the top of the heel of the shoe or boot. If you have a straight cut, well then the front will "crumple" and slouch on the shoe. An angled cut will stop this "slouch" on the vamp of the shoe.

    The adventurous will not put a straight line in, they will simply keep the hemline straight from the front of the pants to the centre seam and then drop the the rear of the pants at an angle. This is like the picture posted above, a sort of dog leg shape. very elegant.

    When you gain a little more experience (as a more senior officer) you will learn to add a curve to the angled hemline and to put an "egg tooth" in the front of the trouser.

    This is the second thing you learn, but much later because it is not easy to do.

    What it involves is this, you make the usual straight angled curve with the long end at the rear, but instead of a straight line it is curved, similar to the OP's picture.

    The pants curve gently to the front with a slight downward angle at the tip.

    Why the down-slope at the front? Obvious, it keeps the pants from slipping back on the shoe, but the tip is still 1/2" shorter than the back.

    Not an easy excercise, but now, try doing that with a turn up cuff! !

    Not so easy!

    You need to do a paper cut first and undo the centre seams to be restitched to accommodate the new shape.

    Now I am not a tailor, but I know there are only a small little group of tailors who even know of this style of tailoring trouser bottoms, and when they do, it looks absolutely fantastic.

    Some of the premier tailors, like Caraceni and Huntsman and Luttwyche frequently do this. Remember, Luttwyche is an ex marine who fought at Goose Green, he knows how to tailor with military precision.

    If I can find some of my old army parade trousers I might photograph them and post them if anyone is interested.

    Great post OP, this is the first time I have noticed civilians express an awareness for this style of trouser bottom.T

    Those trousers are angled from the rear to the centre seam, and then straight from the centre seam to the toe. Very neat and very effective for a very tidy and elegant look
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2012


  10. deandbn

    deandbn Senior member

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    I agree that the back should be a little longer than the front.

    @Lejouvre

    Wow Man Hope you can show us those trousers. Do they still fit you ? :D
     


  11. LeJouvre

    LeJouvre Senior member

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    You're kidding right?

    The principle benefit of all the sweat and hard work is that you are allowed to become a lard ass later on in life, without also having to carry a conscience too big to fit into your old gear!

    ;-)

    I will look through my old things, I know I had at least two pairs of "step outs" when I last packed my old things away.
     


  12. VladimirN

    VladimirN Active Member

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    Thank you for exciting and marvelous comment! Do you suppose that a difference between two horisontal lines (front and rear of the pant) is about 1/2 inch?
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Go to the second tailors tutorial thread/ slanted pant cuffs/ post #30, for pictures of slanted cuffs.

    To make the back only 1/2" longer is barely perceptible when you wear the trousers. One inch longer in back than the front is better
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2012


  14. VladimirN

    VladimirN Active Member

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    Sir, I suppose the first is toward athother topic participant :) I do not want to make a cuffs.
    Toward the second-I will scrutiny you proposal :)
     


  15. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    So it's possible to slant & cuff trousers?
     


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