I want to order myself a couple of shirts to wear casually. I'm in university so they will be worn mostly with shorts or jeans, untucked with the sleeves rolled up. I just like the look and feel of shirts over tshirts. My main question is about fabric. I want the lightest weight and softest fabric. I don't like my shirts to look stiff. Should I be looking at French Oxford, Oxford, Plain Cotton or Cotton Twill? Also, is a 120 a lighter weight fabric than a 100? I like the look of some of the fabrics that are listed as Cotton Twill, 2 plys, 120s. Is this a nice light weight fabric or should I be looking at something else? Which collar style should I be looking at? I like soft, kind of floppy collars. I also don't like the collar to be extremely tall. I like to wear my shirts underneath sweaters and I find a really tall collar looks kind of odd. Will Jantzen make a shirt with a square hem? I didn't see that option on their order form but I'm assuming they wouldn't have any problems with it. Does anyone know for sure? I want my shirts to end right around my belt line. I'm also going to have a reputable tailor in town take my measurements. Should I just bring in a few pairs of pants and explain to him how I want my shirts to fit and let him take the measurement accordingly? Thanks a lot.