A few New York Mag "Best Ofs" ...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by modsquad, Mar 11, 2006.

  1. modsquad

    modsquad Senior member

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    That's best of New York, of course, from the latest issue. Very little on menswear. The magazine mentions Steven Alan for casual wear and a boutique I hadn't heard of called Lord Willys for "dandies." The colorful shirts and custom suits (probably made-to-measure in a house style like Duncan Quinn or Seize -sur-Vingt) are the draw there. Best midtown tailor was a name I'd never run across before: Eva Devecserey. She does alterations and she does bespoke.

    The issue also has an evaluation of six men's white cotton shirts by Gwen Jurney, the owner of Seize-sur-Vingt. Best by far is the $267 number at Paul Stuart. She thinks Charles Tyrwhitt gives good value for money and places it third. The others, in descending order, are John Varvatos, Prada, J Crew and Agnes B.
     


  2. StevenRocks

    StevenRocks Senior member

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    Hasn't Steven Alan gotten pats on the back enough for shrinking the dress shirt? I like them, but it's so common now.
     


  3. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Senior member

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    Lord Willy's is a great shop. I found the proprietors much more approachable than at Duncan Quinn, and their clothing looks nice. Thus far, I've only bought a cashmere scarf there. The suits are made in NYC. The shirts look nice, but I believe someone noted that the buttons are (gasp!) plastic.
     


  4. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    Just back from a suprise visit to Lord Willy's. Walking down the street, came across it and stopped in. It was an expensive stop.

    The shirts are nice. Very dandyish. Interesting colors/patterns with unique details (triple button barrell cuffs, ultra-wide spread collars, complimentary button-hole stitching, etc.). Shirts are MTM, but not bespoke. They take your measurements and then you have a shirt in three-weeks, presumably made in China, though it slipped my mind to ask. RTW is also available in select styles - slim-fitting by say, BB standards, but not as much as much designer wear (Costume National, etc.).

    Proprieters - husband and wife - were very nice and approachable. Both British and a pleasure to talk with and be around.

    Jackets are not bepoke of MTM, they are sized, and I didn't inquire about pricing.

    RTW shirts are $180, with a few styles available in a package for $195 (includes matching shirt, boxers, and pocket square).

    MTM shirts are $240.

    Anyway, I purchased a MTM, will report back in ~3 weeks to let you know how it went. I had them cut mine short as I'll be wearing it casually and don't intend on tucking it in much if I don't have to. That aside, they don't tend to be very flexible on other details, but I'm sure if you were insistent, they'd do whatever. They try to guide you along in the process. They require a 50% deposit up front, the rest upon delivery. Not sure if they do this for everyone, but he told me he'd give me a free matching pocket square as well.

    It's a lot of money for what it is, but they were great folks and I figured I'd take the plunge and see how it goes. Keeping those fingers crossed.

    Oh, and buttons ARE plastic - gasp!

    Dan
     


  5. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Oh, and buttons ARE plastic - gasp!

    Yeah - my experience with LW sums up to: a couple months ago, I walked into the store, looked at a shirt that seemed decent, saw the price tag, saw the el cheapo plastic buttons sewn on the shirt attached to that price tag, walked out of the store. Never went there again.
     


  6. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    She thinks Charles Tyrwhitt gives good value for money and places it third.

    An assessment that, on its own merits, automatically makes the whole list suspect.
     


  7. calvin

    calvin Member

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    So where do you go?, you seem quite the expert.



    Yeah - my experience with LW sums up to: a couple months ago, I walked into the store, looked at a shirt that seemed decent, saw the price tag, saw the el cheapo plastic buttons sewn on the shirt attached to that price tag, walked out of the store. Never went there again.
     


  8. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    It's a MTM shirt, NOT a custom shirt.

    That having been said, I got an unexpected call from Lord Willy's today telling me my shirt had arrived (nearly two weeks early!). So I went to pick it up and tried it on.

    Overall, I was disappointed by the fit. But I feel like this can be attributed to me just as much as them as I was not clear in stating what I was looking for. I like for my shirts to be slim. Very, very slim. This was a "slim fit", but not near what I had hoped. But, they were understanding and are adding darts to the shirt to slim it up a bit. I'd have like for the armholes to be tighter as well, but this was not amongst the measurements that was ever taken in the first place and I didn't express this desire when ordering.

    But the folks there are awesome. As I was walking in, Lord Willy was walking out. After greeting me by name he said he was on the way to the corner store to pick up a beer and asked me if I wanted one. I said no and he brought back a six pack and offered it to me again when he returned. Great people.

    I'll let you know in a week to two if the shirt does indeed fit better.

    The collars are great, by the way.

    Dan
     


  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    An assessment that, on its own merits, automatically makes the whole list suspect.
    Seriously. What was Pink, Number 2?
     


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